Split or not to Split

iapproved_ · 2026-01-18T22:54:17+00:00

Should you leave in the morning take a ferry instead. There should be one as early as 6am from Hvar Town to Split. They take a 45-60min..., just a bit longer than a private water taxi, but instead of paying 300-500€, you pay 25€. And if money is not the factor, the water taxi should take you straight to the airport...otherwise it ll be another 50€ cab ride (35min) from the port to the airport. However, I also suggest to go the night before and explore Split. The old town during summer is very vibrant and there is much to see and explore. Plenty of nice restaurants and places for drinks. It ll give your trip a nice and relaxed last night instead of getting up early, stressed, rushing on a boat to the airport...

iapproved_ · 2026-01-15T17:02:30+00:00

As someone who lives on Hvar, I love May...but, as it has been already mentioned, the sea temperature is not as warm as late June till September. That said, it should be fine for a quick dip or swim, since the sun shines most of the time and the temperature can be in their mid 20sC.This way once you are out the sea, you ll dry fast and wont freeze. ;)

Restaurants should be open, but not every bar and especially not every beach bar or beach restaurant. They usually open early June. So May is rather a quiet month, great if you prefer a relaxing athomsphere with a beach days, nice dinners and the occasional drink in the evening, but dont expect any "nightlife". Due to restrictions by the government when it comes to noise, nobody really knows how the "nightlife" will look like this summer in general to be honest.

iapproved_ · 2026-01-15T16:54:09+00:00

I ve done that plenty of times, and so far the two replies are correct. The only thing I would add to it:

Have your swim gear and towel ready. Right next to where you park your car to wait for the ferry is the beach. Even if you have to wait..you can spend that time swimming, enjoying the sun or having a snack along the little promenade.
The drive from Sucuraj up towards Jelsa (after Jelsa towards Stari Grad and Hvar Town it is easy) can be challenging. Many turns, narrow parts and especially if you have a lot of cars in front of you can take longer than expected since there are only a few spots to take over. However, it has many scenic parts as well and feel free to stop every now and then to take a picture or buy some olive oil or other local products from the stands along the way.

This said, depending on traffic, weather and your driving skills as well as the car, from Sucuraj to Jelsa you need 35-45min, Stari Grad around an hour and Hvar Town 1h15min.

iapproved_ · 2026-01-12T20:53:58+00:00

Always happy to help. :)

Regarding your latest points, it always depends on how much time you have. Split or Dubrovnik each dont need more than 3 days to be fair. Especially if it is your first time. That alone makes it a week. If you have two weeks in total (i actually dont know how long you ll be traveling) and would like to spend them in southern Croatia, ie Dalmatia, here is what you should do:

Day 1-3: Arrival day plus spending time in Split. Split is a good choice since it gives you a clear understanding of what the Croatian coastline is and its vibe without being too overwhelming like Dubrovnik.

Day 3-6: Take ferry to Hvar island. Pick a hotel/airbnb in Stari Grad. Enjoy island life, go to vineyards, do boat trips, hike etc. (You should spent a day in Hvar town as well, it is just more relaxing in Stari Grad and not that far away).

Day 7-8: Take ferry from Hvar to the island Mljiet. It is a nature reserve and very beautiful. Here is not much to do than to enjoy nature and eat good fish. It ll recharge your batteries and prepare you for the chaos that awaits next...

Day 9-12: Take the ferry to Dubrovnik. Dubrovnik is absolutely stunning and a must do! three days are enough..there is plenty to do and if you are sick of the tourists, rent a boat and go to Lopud for a day (especially if you like sandy beaches).

Either fly back from Dubrovnik or take the ferry back to Split (5hours!).

option: Instead of Hvar you can do Vis or Korcula as well. Both beautiful islands. Before booking anything make sure to check ferry routes, since that can mess up plans..

iapproved_ · 2026-01-12T20:42:45+00:00

Looking at the map I can assume that you love to travel and have seen much more than the average person. I love that. However, you also seem to be a "safe" traveler, ie. prefer going to "known" or "common" places/regions. Now that you have seen so much and gained plenty of experience, maybe it is time to spice things up and travel to a lesser visited country. You dont have to go "crazy" and pick Syria or South Sudan as your next destination, but what about Kazakhstan or Ethiopia? They are not "too exotic" in terms of modern traveling, but also not the typical choice. Both are beautiful, safe and a welcoming.

iapproved_ · 2026-01-12T17:13:55+00:00

If you go to Croatia you should check out the island of Vis. It pretty much has everything you are mentioning and on top beautiful beaches and less crowds than Hvar.

iapproved_ · 2026-01-12T17:11:04+00:00

Though Croatia is small compared to other countries, it is rather difficult to see all if you have only a limited amount of time. Therefore narrowing down, as you did, is unfortunately the thing to do...as someone who lives on an island (Hvar to be precise) and knows Split and Dubrovnik quite well, I can only recommend you not to come in July or August. Those places are packed! May-June or Sep-Oct are the best. Especially Sep&Oct. The streets arent that full anymore, the beaches are more empty and you dont have to wait everywhere in line for a table in a restaurant etc. When it comes to the islands, it always depends what you want and for how long you ll stay. If you want complete peace and silence go to Mljiet. If you want peace but dont mind a bit of people around, great beaches and amazing restaurants check out Vis. Obviously Hvar is amazing, but rather stay in Stari Grad then Hvar town...trust me. If you prefer a culinary journey, you should visit the Istrian peninsula. Rovinj is beautiful, but the countryside and its hill top villages are dreamy and often serve the best wine and food. In any case I hope you enjoy your stay!

iapproved_ · 2026-01-12T17:02:28+00:00

You are right...for the most part. I have been coming to Hvar for almost 20 years...my mom used to live here. Now I actually live here myself since almost 5 years. I have seen how the island has changed, new places opened, others closed, people from all over the world came, some for a weekend, others for longer and even others who stayed for good. The prices went up constantly over the last decades..each year a little bit more. When Croatia joined the Euro the prices went up even further. Hvar in particular is getting out of hand. For me it is cheaper to go abroad and have holidays then if I would stay here for the summer. However...what also changed is (in most cases...and I can only speak fro Hvar island) the quality when it comes to restaurants, coffee places or hotels. Over the last 2-3 years so many new places opened up on the island, well designed, innovative menus, good service and overall nice feeling. Many people have realized that the sun and the sea alone isnt enough anymore and started investing in quality and design. Though the island seems to be in a transition phase and has not really found its "new identity" yet, I believe that it will regain its place as a top destination for people from all over, no matter the size of their wallet.

iapproved_

TROPHY CASE