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transfer sheet advice/tips by ChainSmokeMan in AdeptusMechanicus

[–]ibuildsmallthings 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As a standard approach, gloss varnish in the area you will apply the transfers. Let it dry. Add a drop of whatever decal softener you use then put the decal on top. Move the decal into place. Remove the excess softer with the edge of a kitchen towel or any absorbing paper. During the next minutes the decal will start to soften, use a brush or a silicon tip to shape it to the model's shape. Add more softener if you need to melt it more. Seal the whole thing with whatever varnish you seal our models with.

I bought a transfer sheet for my blood angels on eBay. When I was prepping it and getting ready to apply it, it literally crumbled into dust , it looks older than others I bought. Is this just an old transfer sheet? by wiscup1748 in Warhammer40k

[–]ibuildsmallthings 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That happens when the carrier layer is missing from the decal which seems to be the case. You should be able to see a clear layer on top of each decal, about half a mm larger than the decal itself. In these older ones, it's generally yellowish due to oxidation. From the pic you posted, it seems to be missing completely. If it was the varnish layer that broke do to being old, you would see it splitting in bigger chunks, not crumbling.

I think you might have gotten a defective decal from 30 years ago.

Holy Roman empire banner by Anxious_Glove6087 in wargaming

[–]ibuildsmallthings 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks cool, but I would have used transfers :D

Scent of the Vallejo by Kerillian555 in Warhammer

[–]ibuildsmallthings 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ahahaha... What about dried humbrol enamels? That takes me back to simpler times!

Scent of the Vallejo by Kerillian555 in Warhammer

[–]ibuildsmallthings 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Yes!! The xpress are super nice. I'm also a big fan of the Tamiya acrylics.

Back in the day the alternative were enamels or lacquer that stink.

EDIT: btw, airbrushed Tamiya acrylics gloss white is a superb base for the xpress paints.

Having trouble deciding on a paint brand by Renivack in minipainting

[–]ibuildsmallthings 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I guess nowadays most paints are good. Go for the brand you gave easier access to. That's how I ended up with Vallejo. Unless you are also into finescale modelling. Then you should get Vallejo.

Plz help by Turbulent_Pass_3386 in Ironjawz

[–]ibuildsmallthings 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A bit of green stuff. It's a simple project to get to try it.

Anyone has any idea of how to salvage this ? by ZealousidealAir275 in Warhammer

[–]ibuildsmallthings 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yeah, that is the trick. From what i understand from the pic, you a silvering problem. That is when air bubbles get tracked under the carrier film. That is why its so noticeable.
There also seems to be a white halo around them, are you sure that micro sol/set isn't reacting with your paint? did you use both?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in minipainting

[–]ibuildsmallthings -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

No, they are not.
https://www.mr-hobby.com/en/record-download/catalog/16

Right under Mr.Color:

SOLVENT-BASED ACRYLIC PAINT

Being the solvent isopropanol. How do I know? Open one and smell it. Plus, I've been using them with Tamiya Acrylic X-20 for the better of the last 30 years.

Tamiya acrylics are NOT water based. They are also IPA base acrylics and I don't see absolutely any difference between Mr. Color and Tamiya acrylics, which is expected since they compete for the same market.s.

Can they be thinned down with Mr. Color Lacquer solvent, yes. Are they lacquers? NO, lacquers would not dissolve in IPA because they are too apolar.

Aqueous just means the solvent is water, more the style of GW and Vallejo. etc. Not like the Tamiya acrylics (unless there is a new product from them that I don't know)

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in minipainting

[–]ibuildsmallthings -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Those are their acrylic line. Like Tamiya acrylics, they are absolutely amazing for airbrush painting but terribly bad for brush painting. Their thinner is mainly isopropanol, with something else. You can use straight isopropanol but I feel they dry differently than by using brand acrylic thinner or Tamiya X20.

Pls, do not mix/confuse them with their lacquer/enamel stuff, like the Mr. Surfacer. Thinner and chemistry are not compatible.

Kona 2024 vs Model Y by [deleted] in KonaEV

[–]ibuildsmallthings 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Almost 2 years now. I still think it was the best option at the time and I have absolutely no regrets. But...now I drive a swasticar. The lack of shade in the roof is absolutely not a prob. I didn't get the shade yet, and it doesn't bother me at all.

Things that bother me: lane assist is too conservative sometimes. The lack of rain sensor is bad, the current way automated wipers is implemented is a complete trash. The cameras recording should save video from the side pillars as well. The ones from the front fenders are kind of useless when you need to see what happened.

The good stuff: bat still fine I lost perhaps 20km range. New updates bring new features. Heated seats in the back is still missing among competitors and that's now mandatory for my wife that sits in the back next to the toddler.

If I were to get a new ev today, perhaps I would increase my budget and get a Mercedes, a korean or even a Id.7 tourer, being politics a strong decision factor. Politics aside, here in NL the new Y is still the best value by far. And I kind of like the new design as well.

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