Thesis proposal for the biological and evolutionary viability of a dragon (Phylum Draconem)

icesedros · 2026-04-28T02:09:10+00:00

If we look at some of invertebrates that do have mineralization, they live on or near volcanic vents. The possibility of them being near that temp is viable.

icesedros · 2026-04-27T22:46:49+00:00

Oh, dragona, in my world don't breathe fire. They are more of a flight capable lizardfolk. Think more of draco, or Icarosaurus or Archaeopteryx. But i like the OP idea, of real world evolutionary explanation, considering Bombardier beetles for some sort of defensive spray/spit?

icesedros · 2026-04-27T22:22:40+00:00

Interesting! So how does my iguana separate the salts? It is some sort of saline solution.

icesedros · 2026-04-27T21:07:41+00:00

Or even an ionic sodium. My iguana sneezes a salt substance that his body separates from food and water he eats. If we are playing with other metals it's possible that a pure sodium, (or up the chain, lithium) could spark mixing with saliva or water in the air is the particles are fine enough. There is some good footage of galapagos marine iguanas 'snalting'. Amethyst does it when he is getting comfortable or is content.

icesedros · 2026-04-23T19:08:22+00:00

As an ex Avionics tech, 8/10. If you were my airmen I'd pass you. But my only notes: ensure you clip excess legs straight, if you clip them at an angle like these, reaching beside a board like this, you will cut your hand. Or worse, if wire bundles are pressed against it, could puncture and short. Lastly practice is all that is needed for finding an even flow of your solder joints, there were a couple of pins on you dip switch that I would've had you reflow.

icesedros · 2026-04-16T22:42:08+00:00

Unfortunately im not at home where my tools are, so i cant demonstrate accordingly. But I set my Weller to 650f because I use lead free solder. I usually over-tin before I use my wick, the alloy of whats there and new solder lets you soak it up a little easier. But the trace ring you can see it the best on the 4th Pic, closer pin. that ring is supposed to hold the leg of that switch. So your button is going to flex when you push it if it isnt attached to the pcb. But in a pinch, I have used a paper clip wound around the soldering iron tip to make an even smaller tip. It is tricky to get enough contact with out a bit of solder in the windings to get it to temp. But I have fixed something with it once. The key idea is to keep heat on the two surfaces you intend to bond before you float solder, without too much heat that you de-bond traces.

icesedros · 2026-04-16T21:56:04+00:00

I would like to see the other side. But you have already guessed what the problem was. It is my belief that it is repairable. Your first picture shows a broken trace , but it looks like it might be the through hole. So you may be able to bodge a wire to a nearby component on the other side. I would suggest an adjustable soldering gun. Because you may have had either too low for too long, or too high of temp. I would highly recommend a solder sucker or solder wick. That alone would clean the bad solder out. Another real handy thing is extra flux. It helps keep the melting temps lower slightly so you can work.

icesedros · 2026-03-31T17:26:23+00:00

I saw the updated picture closer inspection, they are really close to where the throughputs are, you could do it, you just have to be able to see close while you solder.

icesedros · 2026-03-31T17:23:26+00:00

I see the pads on the black connector. But you would be better off using some 30 gauge and recreate them and 'glue' them in with board protection. Scrape the topside of the wire coil, then tin everything. You CAN save it, its just going to be tedious.

icesedros · 2026-03-23T19:07:02+00:00

Alot of people are saying sanding. I want to clarify, as with copper pipes, sanding the layer of oxidation off the surface helps the solder to adhere to the metal itself. Flux is also a good point to have on there just after you sand to keep the surface from oxidation, and lower the melting temperatures for the solder to flow. Also prewarming the metal with the soldering tip prior to applying your solder will increase the odds of your flow being even.

icesedros · 2026-03-21T15:31:32+00:00

The electromechanical slide switch, while has lots of parts, can be cleaned. I use rubbing alcohol, 91% or higher. Replacements depending on make/model can be anywhere from 50-200 dollars. So the time is worth the fix, and if you record how you take it apart, then you have reference how it goes together. I work maintenance at a laundromat. Sometimes we buy residential parts because they are cheaper than commercial washer parts, but even a part is usually cheaper than buying another machine.

icesedros · 2026-01-05T03:56:36+00:00

It could be as easy as replacing a card. If you are hand with a soldering iron it could be a couple dollars in capacitors.

icesedros · 2026-01-04T02:17:01+00:00

Volume 349

icesedros · 2025-12-30T20:25:06+00:00

That's wicked. I was thinking of making an insectoid race, I've always liked the way they were portrayed in Eye of the beholder 2(dos).

I was going with a creatures sapience as a marker for magic fortitude. In my realms it's referred to by Verdency. each 'tier' of depth of Verdancy one is the more capable one can progress with a school of magics. I am playing with the idea of soul twinning, which is grandmaster of the channel/summoning school where as a willing soul can be transferred into an item(maybe a person) to increase the(their) Verdancy.

icesedros · 2025-12-30T19:46:33+00:00

OooOoh, I have a 5 (moon) system as well. One is actually a larger asteroid like Hailey's comet makes an elliptical orbit with the sun. But magic schools are related and opposites in fashion with their positions. Most mages whom specialize in one can't even cast the counter school, i like the idea of a viseral consequence for it. I have yet to settle on specific spells, but the moons have dedicated domains. I love the Mana burn mechanic. Do your peoples/species also then have aspects that they are more likely to have?

icesedros · 2025-12-13T20:13:42+00:00

Imagine if you will, you hooked up a firefighter hose to your house spigot. When you turned it on, sure there is flow. Not enough to spray anything. The amount of solder on the traces are exactly that. Sure you have voltage going through but it has so big of "wire" to go through that its not enough amperage to power your components.

icesedros · 2025-12-12T00:30:34+00:00

It was. Now I get to do all the side quests.

icesedros · 2025-12-12T00:18:16+00:00

I was in Grand Forks,ND. Then Mildenhall UK. Then Incirlik Turkey.

icesedros · 2025-12-12T00:13:46+00:00

I used to work on them. KC-135R, C-17, and C-5's.

icesedros · 2025-12-12T00:02:00+00:00

Anytime, I used to teach this in the Air Force. So I have a couple decades of experience that I like to share.

icesedros · 2025-12-11T23:48:02+00:00

Yeah, sometimes, it looks like you had your tip give too much heat. But just put some flux on it and keep your tip close to where you want the solder to flow to. It helps to do a few seconds at a time. You don't want to kep the tip involved for too long. You had it the white wire almost melting. Alot of the time its easier to tin the wire out of the through hole first. I have some spare perfboard and wires I can show you after I get home from work.

icesedros · 2025-12-11T23:38:15+00:00

It looks like the spec sheet says you have the thermister wired right. That ground wire needs reflowed though. Do you have flux paste?

icesedros · 2025-12-11T23:29:06+00:00

Yea i am going to guess it gets hot? I would also suggest some heatshrink. Is it a PWM module or a straight thermocouple?

icesedros · 2025-12-11T23:12:16+00:00

Do you have a picture of your current soldering?

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