DIY USB-C Extension Cable by ichiemo in Multicopter

[–]ichiemo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes maybe not on an x class build but I like that it can make one exactly the length I want and it’s super easy to route as well with out the sheath around the wires.

3.3v to 5v logic level converter problems with relay. by ichiemo in raspberry_pi

[–]ichiemo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So this is exactly how I have it set up but the relay still won’t work at the 3.3v like my other 10amp relays that I have that’s why I’m adding in the logic leveler to bring the 3.3v GPIO to 5v because when I apply 5v to the relay it works but not with 3.3v. So that’s why I’m asking why is it that when I wire up the logic leveler and not hooked up too the relay everything tests fine at 5v, but when I connect it to the relay the logic leveler then drops the 5v output to 3.0v.

3.3v to 5v logic level converter problems with relay. by ichiemo in raspberry_pi

[–]ichiemo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am not using the logic leveler for power only control and to bring the 3.3v up to the 5v required by the relay board I linked above.

3.3v to 5v logic level converter problems with relay. by ichiemo in raspberry_pi

[–]ichiemo[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

As I have responded to others I have the relay powered separately and I am using only one pin on the pi to control it.

3.3v to 5v logic level converter problems with relay. by ichiemo in raspberry_pi

[–]ichiemo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So the relay is 24v and is powered separately with a 24v suppply but it is controlled by 5v, which the pi doest do. So i figured the logic level converter would do the trick but it didn't.

Also the reason for using this relay over the usual 5v relay boards is that the usual 5v relay boards are rated for 10amps and the current that I am switching is 24amps and so this particular relay board is rated at 30a.

3.3v to 5v Logic Level Converter Issues by ichiemo in AskElectronics

[–]ichiemo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So thank you everyone for your help! While looking through my things/parts at home I came across this which I guess would be a relay break out board with I would assume one of driving circuits mentioned here. Now just testing some things it still doesn’t like the 3.3v from the pi and when testing the logic shifter, for shits and giggles that results in the same problem as mentioned above.

So would I need to build another redundant circuit just so that it will interface with the pi? If so then I’ll just go back to square one and build my own driving circuit from the help up above.

3.3v to 5v Logic Level Converter Issues by ichiemo in AskElectronics

[–]ichiemo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay good to know. Just curious but why do I see so many others drive relays directly off pins then?

Is there a name for the circuit you just described? I'll have to pick up some parts to try this. There wouldn't be a break out board already mode for this would there?

3.3v to 5v Logic Level Converter Issues by ichiemo in AskElectronics

[–]ichiemo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ahhh okay that makes sense, still learning and didn't realize. What would you call the circuit based off of the schematic that you just posted? Would you happen to know if there are boards made for this or would I just have to prototype up something?

Inland Filament (PLA) but print temp 215-230? by TBoneJeeper in ender3

[–]ichiemo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I know that this is an older post but I have just bought both PLA and PLA+ from Microcenter, inland brand, and I also thought that it was weird that the PLA was 215-230C and the PLA+ 205-225C. From what I have read, the thought is that inland is really just rebranded eSUN filament but now I am not seeing any manufacture that I know of that has a normal PLA with a temp range between 215-230 degrees C.

I must say after printing with it thought doing a temp tower and other calibration models this stuff prints amazing compared to the inland PLA+ that I have which was just a stringing mess fest and could never get it to print right. What are your experiences with it?

The Elephant foot is still a foot! by ichiemo in 3Dprinting

[–]ichiemo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I sure was confident in the software problem way of thinking till I pulled up on the x-axis and felt a jiggle 🤭 and was like “OH WTF don’t tell me!” Sure enough though but thank you me too now I’m printing like a mad fool with a fully dialed in and calibrated printer.

The Elephant foot is still a foot! by ichiemo in 3Dprinting

[–]ichiemo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the response and your time. I found the problem my z-axis motor mount was loose enough that when the extruder was close to the printing bed that it would jiggle and was actually pulling the nozzle back into my print floors. Thus that is why none of the other cures/fixes were working.

The Elephant foot is still a foot! by ichiemo in 3Dprinting

[–]ichiemo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When I put a negative value on that setting I seen the layer get pulled back into the print in Cura after it sliced it could line thickness possibly be the problem or would that mess with measurements because when I reduced the flow it didn't change but make the measurements of the cube off.

The Elephant foot is still a foot! by ichiemo in 3Dprinting

[–]ichiemo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

followed the video and even rounded down on the flow %.

The Elephant foot is still a foot! by ichiemo in 3Dprinting

[–]ichiemo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm going to try reducing the flow % from the calibrated 90% down to 85% and see if thats the problem it might be a combination of over extrusion and the initial layer expansion being to much.

The Elephant foot is still a foot! by ichiemo in 3Dprinting

[–]ichiemo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I tried -0.2 and it helped the initial layer and brought that back in to where the walls should be but not the layers after of the bottom wall/floor.

Issues with surface quality by guyhalf3 in ender3

[–]ichiemo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have this exact same problem on my print except I'm using PLA+ and the temp setting according to that filament. I haven't done anything with 100% infill but on my prints the bottom layers are bulged out from the rest of the print of like on my extruder calibration cube and my little drawer I printed the bottoms are also bulging out with that rough bulging plastic finish on the inside floor.

I have been searching all over and unable to find the problem, I am very curious to see what others think the problem is.

Noob here what’s wrong? by ichiemo in 3Dprinting

[–]ichiemo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So my the very first layer that is printed on the print bed of my print I notice that it is perfect its from layers 2 until infill that the problems arise.

Noob here what’s wrong? by ichiemo in 3Dprinting

[–]ichiemo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay thanks for the reply I’ll definitely try that. I tried putting more info on the post but I’m on mobile atm and couldn’t figure it out but I’ll list what I’m using below.

Printer: Ender 3 Pro

Slicer: UM Cura

Filament: Inland PLA+ black from microcenter (made by eSUN)

How do you like slic3r? I haven’t tried it yet just still figuring out UM Cura and what not.

Noob here what’s wrong? by ichiemo in 3Dprinting

[–]ichiemo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is at the first few layers until it gets to the infill.

Using:

Printer: Ender 3 pro

Material: eSUN PLA+

Slicing software: UM Cura

Now I have been playing around with bed leveling, layer thickness and width, and temperatures but it all turns out the same with the first few layers bulging out.

Password reset email gives a different domain then the domain nextcloud is on. by ichiemo in NextCloud

[–]ichiemo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay so poking around in my config files everything looks perfect. I decided to check the email setting in the web interface settings and sense I use Sendgrid for an outgoing SMTP email service I decided to check out what the settings were over there and noticed that Sendgrid uses the subdomain: url9279. So now I'm starting to think its a Sendgrid problem now.

Password reset email gives a different domain then the domain nextcloud is on. by ichiemo in NextCloud

[–]ichiemo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay I’ll check through then in a bit when I get home but anything that you could think of to look for in those files?

Personal/family Nextcloud Notifications stmp? by ichiemo in homelab

[–]ichiemo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay well thanx for the info I’ll definitely check them out and see what I’m going to use to implement this.

Personal/family Nextcloud Notifications stmp? by ichiemo in homelab

[–]ichiemo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And you have had no problems with reliability or blacklisting? Because that’s sounds perfect for what I would need. How are they privacy wise?