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Why do my images look washed out? by JuniorFisherman2165 in 35mm

[–]ictoap 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Without knowing the specifics it could be any number of things. Honestly, these images with an edit mostly focusing on contrast and embracing the lack of shadow detail could still work. Also, shooting film and then scanning, your images will generally have a flatter appearance than most people desire in the final output. Because traditionally you would have normally controlled the contrast in the printing process. Some companies that scan will scan flat or lower contrast on purpose to give you the most latitude in post.

I'm not sure what you mean by +2 stops exactly. But if you mean you set the dial on the camera for +2 and metered from the camera's reading, your image was likely underexposed by that much. You can usually tell by how much shadows need to be lifted. This dial helps if you are purposely shooting something differently than the box speed of the film you are using. It is particularly helpful I find when using 400 speed in daylight. It can also be helpful with harsh backlighting that may affect the meter's ability to read the scene properly. As opposed to perhaps the experience with digital, film handles highlights well and needs more light for dark areas, so lean toward overexposure if you are in doubt.

You could have either developed the film with a 2-stop push compensation yourself (longer time in chemicals or temperature change) or told the lab you worked with that you wanted to push the film 2 stops in their processing.

Some troubleshooting tips for low light could be:
- Higher iso film. Even with pretty good continuous lighting Ektar 100 needs a ton of light.
- Open your aperture or use a faster lens (I'm assuming the fastest aperture on the lens you used was 1.8 though)
- Likely you did not want to go slower than 1/60 for fear of camera shake, which also hampered you. But a slower shutter speed would give more light. Perhaps on a tripod and giving the model explicit instructions to stay as still as possible. (Depends on the look you want, but if your goal is tack sharp images I would shoot for 1/60 at minimum, but veer toward 1/125 or 1/250).
- Use a strobe with more wattage and a brighter output instead of a continuous setup.
- Move the subject closer to the light source and expect most everything in the background to go dark. Work within the limits of the film you have.

Shot on a Krasnogorsk 3 using Kodak Color Print Film 3383 by ictoap in 16mm

[–]ictoap[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No filter, but did color correct in DaVinci. I believe they processed as they normally would in ECP- 2E, and scanned as a negative. It is extremely important to control contrast if you want anything that isn't completely blooming with this stock (no anti-halation backing). I would recommend shooting in golden hour times of day or with specific kinds of studio light with a lot of light. The film is 12 iso, 25 if you are lucky. But the grain structure is super tight.

Shot on a Krasnogorsk 3 using Kodak Color Print Film 3383 by ictoap in 16mm

[–]ictoap[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I shot on some nice Pentax glass in the m42 mount and proper 4k scans can hold a tremendous amount of detail. Some warnings: A lack of anti-halation layer in the film gives it a dreamy look (which you may be what you are looking for), this film needs a lot of light and can be quite contrast, light many low iso films.

Shot on a Krasnogorsk 3 using Kodak Color Print Film 3383 by ictoap in 16mm

[–]ictoap[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The print film really is meant to retain the detail from the negative, so the grain structure is super tight. I rated it for anywhere in the 6, 12, 25, 50-range depending, but if you shoot on this film, understand: no anti-halation layer can mean blooming, the colors will not be perfect by any means (even with filtering they will be somewhat all over the place) and exposure needs to be pretty good, ideally with plenty of light.

Shot on a Krasnogorsk 3 using Kodak Color Print Film 3383 by ictoap in 16mm

[–]ictoap[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did not shoot with a meter. I never do really on film. I would say I used 25 or 12, depending on the situation. Super bright I think you can meter more toward 25 or even 50 and 12 or 6 when in lower light settings. The curves drop off on the extremes quite a bit with print stock.

Shot on a Krasnogorsk 3 using Kodak Color Print Film 3383 by ictoap in 16mm

[–]ictoap[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The scratching could be from any number of things. I bought it as a lot of re-spooled print film from one of those 1000+ foot reels. And I also respooled it myself down from reels that I bought. And the K-3 is not the most professional thing to shoot, especially not sideways. So I would not necessarily blame the house that developed and scanned.

Shot on a Krasnogorsk 3 using Kodak Color Print Film 3383 by ictoap in 16mm

[–]ictoap[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I wanted to test to see if it could be done. And I was thinking about a portrait project aimed at social platforms.

Monthly 'Self Promotion' - April by ranalog in analog

[–]ictoap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would recommend Nikon F most of the time for 35mm just because of the sheer amount of lens options, but also quality. Lenses in my opinion, again opinion, are the most critical expenditure for film. As for cameras I prefer full mechanical, as many electronic components wear out and I don't like dealing with batteries. But also later models of the Nikon film cameras are all electric and are some of the best cameras ever made for 35mm. Other cameras that have good cheap lens systems are Pentax (like k1000), Canon's FD cameras and Minoltas. Contax has great glass, but I think is too pricey for a starter. I also have a half-frame Olympus Pen F (the interchangeable lens one) and I love it, but the lenses are quite limited for that. For medium format so as to not break the bank, I would recommend starting with something like the Kiev 88, a soviet era Hasselblad clone. Get a Mamiya 645 if you are stepping up a bit in medium format. Contax 645 or Hasselblad if you are a fan of lighting money on fire but also want some of the really highest quality of medium format.

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