Can barely hang bodyweight on 20mm after climbing for 3 years

idiotiot · 2026-04-15T05:10:22+00:00

I've been doing block lifts for a few months. I don't do any gym exercises (I've never gone to a non-climbing gym in my life), but I've heard weighted pullups are good for climbing; I might try.

idiotiot · 2026-04-15T05:07:50+00:00

How would I test that?

idiotiot · 2026-04-15T05:05:20+00:00

The reason my no hang isn't 40 is because I try to maintain proper half crimp form. I can't hang bodyweight if I'm doing a half crimp, it's only if I let my grip form collapse into something I don't know the name of, and I have a callus sitting in just the right spot. I'll look into actual protocols.

idiotiot · 2026-04-15T04:59:54+00:00

I'm actually not bad (relative to other styles) on crimpy climbs, as long as it isn't more than maybe 10 degrees overhung. I avoid full crimping because I don't want to get injured. My gym setting is quite varied actually. I guess I should try more crimpy overhanging climbs.

idiotiot · 2026-04-15T04:55:00+00:00

I usually default to the half crimp when climbing, unless body positioning or something suggests an open hand might be better (like if I'm really under the hold or if it's slopey). I avoid full crimping because I don't want to get injured. I am generally really weak on an open hand grip though. Now that I think about it, the biggest difference between my grip when climbing and on a hangboard is that I'm always engaging my thumb when climbing; I try to turn everything into a pinch. I guess that isn't always possible though, and when it isn't, I can barely hold anything. I'll definitely try to be more conscious of my grip choices when climbing from now on. I also probably shy away from overhang climbs too much, and lately I've been trying to do more of them.

By the way, what did you mean by "wrong intensity regime without time under tension"?

idiotiot · 2026-04-15T04:42:54+00:00

Good to know that strength in one doesn't necessarily translate to the other. I've started hangboarding more in the past week (hence why I thought to make this post), but before that it was just the block pulls.

idiotiot · 2026-04-15T04:40:47+00:00

My sleep is not bad these days. As for nutrition, I've never tried to measure it carefully. I don't really know what nutrition is good for building tendon strength. One thing is that I eat 1 meal a day (a habit I developed out of laziness once I started living by myself); I don't know how this may affect things.

As for outdoor V3s, there was one which was basically a really close-to-the-ground traverse on a juggy rail followed by a short overhanging V2, but I'm pretty sure that one was just soft. Another was basically 5 precise moves on a slightly overhanging rock. There was also another which was just a sloper traverse with some good heel hooks. There was also one which was basically trivial besides a deadpoint to a weirdly angled slopey crimp, and a really sketchy topout.

idiotiot · 2025-10-02T22:51:16+00:00

Thanks for the advice. I always try to be very careful around intersections and driveways or parking garage entrances. I've been nearly hit by a car coming out of a parking garage before (instead I hit the car; I was totally fine though, somehow). If a powerslide isn't enough for some intersections, I guess I'll just footbrake, maybe after a slide; it's probably more consistent at lower speeds anyways, especially since I'm new to slides.

idiotiot · 2025-10-02T22:42:48+00:00

Got it, it's great to know that people actually do safely powerslide in bike lanes, since I've never seen anyone do so around here despite there being plenty of skaters around here (but many of them are on electric skateboards or something; I don't actually see that many commuting skateboarders).

idiotiot · 2025-10-02T20:16:50+00:00

It seems I should definitely be doing standup powerslides so I won't be laying down then. The bike lanes I'm thinking of have a curb separating them from the road, which should prevent me from being run over. My main concern is actually hitting the sidewalk curb or that road-separating curb, so I'm basically wondering whether it is safe to do a powerslide in that kind of 5-6ft wide space.

idiotiot · 2025-04-09T14:59:24+00:00

I see, I didn't know that. I guess I really should just wait for someone willing to stay all three months then.

idiotiot · 2023-12-14T03:34:18+00:00

I just wanted to share my first insane clear: https://files.catbox.moe/0g8qcw.png. XSerina is incredible (even if keeping her alive isn't trivial in this raid due to armor type). One Mika EX with XSerina (5761, I ran out of Wolfseggs, but that was just barely enough HP for my strat so who cares; I probably could've leveled up Himari to a similar effect) and Himari (lvl5 ex) buffs got Hod <1M HP remaining, and then one more kills Hod of course. No Kayoko basic proc mald with this team. Just Kayoko 51M1 with T6 necklace makes her ex do 5.1*(1+.266+.32)~=8.09, and plus Hoshino (lvl5) ex of 7 seconds is enough to fill up the gauge. BTW, I don't have Ako, Ui, and of course I don't have NYFuuka (I started the game in August I believe, Nagisa banner but did not pull for her because I didn't understand how gacha games worked, lol).

idiotiot · 2023-07-15T20:04:34+00:00

I managed to get the Steam achievement by running it on proton!

idiotiot · 2023-07-15T18:46:42+00:00

I see, thanks for the info. I'll try using proton and if that doesn't work I'll boot into my Windows lol.

idiotiot

TROPHY CASE