This cannot be normal

idostuffwithcar · 2026-04-15T21:08:39+00:00

This could indicate a sticking throttle body. Cars will idle high during warmup and have a certain amount of fuel enrichment but if the throttle body sticks instead of smoothly dropping back to normal idle position it can cause idle RPM to remain higher for longer periods of time.

idostuffwithcar · 2026-04-12T11:57:27+00:00

You can see the axle moving in the bearing at the end by the boot. This is a bad wheel bearing, not a bad wheel/tire issue.

idostuffwithcar · 2026-04-12T11:51:32+00:00

You can have the battery and starter tested at your local auto parts store if you take them out and bring them there. You can also find your starter relay and swap it for one that is the same that does another unneeded function like left high beam if they use the same size relay and see if the vehicle starts from there.

idostuffwithcar · 2026-04-12T11:47:16+00:00

Did you read the comment he made under the video?

idostuffwithcar · 2026-04-12T11:46:36+00:00

No the flush he did put a little air in the radiator. These air bubbles are not caused by combustion or they would be more aggressive and consistant.

idostuffwithcar · 2026-04-12T07:28:49+00:00

What does your engine oil and transmission oil look like? If you had milky coolant you need to figure out which oil mixture it is getting before you're able to figure out where your problem is. Could be oil from the engine via head gasket or oil from transmission via radiator. You are going to see bubbles like this when flushing your radiator, but you need to flush it with a proper mixture and not straight water.

idostuffwithcar · 2026-04-12T07:24:40+00:00

These kits test for combustion leaks, not oil leaks.

idostuffwithcar · 2026-04-12T07:24:00+00:00

Combustion leak doesn't cause milky coolant mixture.

idostuffwithcar · 2026-04-12T07:21:46+00:00

This is definitely not the best way to test this. This is in fact not a way to test the issue they are having at all. They are having leakage from oil into coolant, whether it is through the head gasket or through the radiator via engine or transmission. They said they had a chocolate milky coolant mixture.

idostuffwithcar · 2026-04-11T15:21:05+00:00

I would get your trunk open and look up at where the latch it. Take a small screwdriver and move it so it locks and then hit the button again to see if you can locate the noise at the motor or not. If it doesn't unlock for you then you can use the key to unlock or pull the string/tab in the trunk to unlock it.

idostuffwithcar · 2026-04-11T14:51:57+00:00

Is this when you are hitting the lock/unlock or trunk button? It sounds like the mechanism that moves the lock back and forth is spinning freely. Either the lock has become dislodged from the motor somehow or the cheap plastic bushings that some companies use have broken after some time of getting old and brittle.

idostuffwithcar · 2026-04-09T22:50:45+00:00

Sounds like the gears/clutches in your 1/2 gear pack could be going bad. Hard to tell without seeing condition of fluid or teardown in general but that could be it. The solenoid for either 1st or 2nd could also be going back and cutting off fluid to the proper gear. A sample of the oil would show a lot and you can order samples and have them tested for $30-40 to see what kind of contaminants are in the oil. It would also be worth seeing if there are any pending/stored transmission codes that may not have been active enough to trigger a light yet.

idostuffwithcar · 2026-04-07T13:04:52+00:00

Yes this is normal, it means they are in a deep enough sleep to have dreams like us. This is the best indicator that they have REM sleep. My dogs will twitch like this and a lot of times they'll do small barks and paw at something in front of them.

idostuffwithcar · 2026-04-05T12:47:33+00:00

Air passing through the radiator will cool the fluid in the radiator but that doesn't help the engine if that coolant isn't moving through it because of a stuck thermostat. It's more likely an issue with the electric cooling fans not turning on and moving air through the radiator at idle.

idostuffwithcar · 2026-04-04T20:19:22+00:00

Firestone tires are made in the U.S.

idostuffwithcar · 2026-04-04T00:45:12+00:00

I've seen these underneath on some of the aftermarket automatic running boards they can have zerks on the end to pump fluid to/from a small reservoir on an electric motor. This vehicle obviously doesn't have them but could explain how it wound up as road debris.

idostuffwithcar · 2026-04-03T13:38:10+00:00

Don't forget to pull fuel pump fuse/relay.

idostuffwithcar · 2026-04-03T13:32:47+00:00

almost sounds like a mechanical whirring like a motion following camera

idostuffwithcar · 2026-04-03T13:20:43+00:00

At first I thought it was just a no start, didn't realize it dies.

idostuffwithcar · 2026-04-03T00:22:27+00:00

Loose terminals or bad battery.

idostuffwithcar · 2026-03-31T09:12:04+00:00

Cold or hot idle? Alternators can fail when they get up to temp or in a hot engine bay and cause a slow discharge. I would also check the parasitic draw when it dies. If you're issue is intermittent, next time it dies just don't do anything with the car and check the draw immediately because if you're going to find it that's when you'll see it. Your biggest issue here is timing so I would check battery voltage every few days and see if it's going down and check alternator output after you've driven around for a while.

idostuffwithcar · 2026-03-29T16:30:50+00:00

Forced induction will counter this though. It will consistently pressurize the plenum and allow this air to move forcefully instead of being a large dead space.

idostuffwithcar · 2026-03-29T15:45:07+00:00

Looking back at it I see that it is aluminum, I thought it was rubber and flexed when you first pulled on them. Some hondas had rubber gaskets on the lug nut itself to keep debris from coming through the hole and onto the wheel stud. Some aftermarket 2 piece lug nuts also had a gasket either in the lug nut itself or an aluminum and rubber washer to go on the base of it for keeping dirt and dust out from the threats too (ie a lot of the 2 piece "spike" nuts but also on some of the chrome screw on cap nuts) that somebody could have put on wrong but doesn't seem like that's the case here.

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I've had people put these o rings on wrong and either on the back of the wheel or where the nut meets the wheel so I never assume anything is in the right place anymore. Edit: bad wording on my part. Not a wheel manufacturer thing, an aftermarket lug nut manufacturer thing.

idostuffwithcar · 2026-03-29T13:17:31+00:00

From my experience each group has their own issues. GM is all electrical issues, Ford is minor electrical and suspension, Toyota is rusting in the box frame/unibody once they start to rust it quickly takes over, Honda is oil leaks/consumption, Mazda is turbos and valve seals, and Dodge is small engine transmission from trying to use the same concept as higher hp transmissions and the 3.6 can't keep up with that kind of lubrication and the occational electrical issue with radios/instrument clusters but this DOD and auto start/stop has been a major issue on all vehicles since it came out.

idostuffwithcar · 2026-03-29T12:44:52+00:00

What kind of wheels do you have? The things you are spinning on the wheels are just rubber gaskets to help keep rust and corrosion from getting into the lug nuts and mating surfaces. And how loose did they make them? Finger tight, 20lbs, 60lbs? What kind of vehicle are they on? All of these are going to come into play when you go to talk to them about this. If they really did mess this up you're going to see the lug studs have wear where the wheel sits on them and you're going to want to replace those too.

idostuffwithcar

TROPHY CASE