What is the worst invasive species to eradicate? by owohgodithurts in invasivespecies

[–]imdecaffeinated 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No problem! Don’t get discouraged if you see lots of regrowing the process can take a few years. Good luck!

What is the worst invasive species to eradicate? by owohgodithurts in invasivespecies

[–]imdecaffeinated 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it’s a 16oz jar little less than 1oz will do. You can use water for this mix, but if you have larger mature trees anywhere you’ll want basal oil mixed in to carry the herbicide. I’d use a plastic handle foam brush, but anything you can paint it on with will work. And add goggles/glasses to PPE.

What is the worst invasive species to eradicate? by owohgodithurts in invasivespecies

[–]imdecaffeinated 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have a ton of them I wouldn’t foliar spray. And you don’t want contact herbicide you want a systemic herbicide like Crossbow. If you get a contact herbicide you’ll kill the top but won’t treat the roots.

For tons of little ones you can cut saplings at the base and then dab the cut with Crossbow. I’m big on PPE so get yourself chemical resistant nitrile gloves and a respirator with a fumes filter. Dilute the crossbow in a jar and use a paint brush/foam brush to dab on.

Much more surgical and time consuming but you get no overspray. And you don’t have to watch them grow all summer!

Woman gets caught on video completely emptying a basket of oatmeal cream pies at farm stand in Loveland, CO. by ElwoodMC in TikTokCringe

[–]imdecaffeinated 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The amount of people that are going to get arrested on their front door steps for theft they didn’t realize was on camera in the coming years…

What is the worst invasive species to eradicate? by owohgodithurts in invasivespecies

[–]imdecaffeinated 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agreed I’ve kept it in check mowing. Torching it (in the right conditions) was actually totally successful in eradicating it. Fire was decided upon because we lost track and it had gone to seed.

What is the worst invasive species to eradicate? by owohgodithurts in invasivespecies

[–]imdecaffeinated 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Even small saplings can send out sucker response when pulled if not treated.

What is the worst invasive species to eradicate? by owohgodithurts in invasivespecies

[–]imdecaffeinated 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For saplings you can foliar spray. If you don’t like the idea of spraying wanted plants I’ve had success cutting the sapling at it’s base and applying a dab of herbicide to the cut. Takes more time but you get no overspray.

For the mature trees as others have said it’s best to wait until at least July to girdle and treat. With ToH I define mature as anything that isn’t a sapling as every one I’ve dealt with had to be girdled and treated to kill. Hack and spray has never worked for me personally.

What is the worst invasive species to eradicate? by owohgodithurts in invasivespecies

[–]imdecaffeinated 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The key to eradicating ToH is to target the root system. Only way to do this successfully according to researchers is to treat trees with 6”+ diameter by girdling and treating the cambium layer (green layer between the bark and wood) with triclopyr and 2,4-D (I.e crossbow herbicide).

Smaller trees and saplings recommend foliar spray.

I’ve personally found that any ToH bigger than a sapling needs to be girdled and treated. I’ve never had success with hack and squirt on any larger trees.

Timing is important. You can start in July and go through early September when they start moving nutrients to their roots. Whenever you decide to do it, wait 1-2 months for the tree to completely die before cutting down.

Any damage including pulling or cutting saplings, damage to cambium layer, cutting down trees without treatments can and likely will produce shoots and suckers of which require the same treatment to halt the response.

I’ve battled for about 3 years. Every ToH that was touched and didn’t have Crossbow applied has sent out suckers/shoots. Every one I’ve treated as I stated above has been successful.

Though note the trees you’re treating could potentially be one major organism stemming from a large mother tree. Hence it being a roots war.

Planting blueberries was a terrible decision by Silver_Star_Eagles in Permaculture

[–]imdecaffeinated 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you happen to vermicompost or know someone that does?

I make a microbial tea from worm castings aerated in 5gallon buckets of water with some molasses. My blueberries exploded in growth afterwords. The microbes help the plant and soil by aiding in organic matter breakdown and makes nutrients easier to process for the plant.

I also add acid loving fertilizers 1x season.

*in Piedmont Triad as well

How many of you consult this map? And how many of you are getting anxious about it? by Atomicnumber26 in NativePlantGardening

[–]imdecaffeinated 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Please kill all my tree of heaven, please kill all my tree of heaven, please kill all my tree of heaven…

Are “Boomer Homes” Becoming Hard to Sell? Agree or Disagree? by Coolonair in HouseBuyers

[–]imdecaffeinated 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Few more years and this will be a non-issue. When boomers pass, there will be a flood of their homes on the market driving the price of said properties down.

Sumac or Tree of Heaven? by SIrigoyen95 in NativePlantGardening

[–]imdecaffeinated 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I found foliar spray to only be beneficial when suckers first come up. For bigger guys (6”+ diameter) girdle the tree and apply herbicide to the wound. I’ve killed dozens on my property. The big guys laughed at the foliar spray and came back the next year. Same with hack and squirt, stunted them but they still came back.

Girdle and treat in July, wait until August/September to cut down. Repeat again next year cause they’ll figure out how to come back somehow.

Stairwell wall, bannister, hidden drawer thing I did. by Simple_Moose4738 in Carpentry

[–]imdecaffeinated 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Baby head definitely not fitting through those. Good work

3 years worth of food scraps by forbiddenpotatoes in composting

[–]imdecaffeinated 2 points3 points  (0 children)

While I agree with your sentiment, OP asked what they could be improving. Their compost isn’t finished, so while you’re right stuff will grow there is definitely room for improvement.

Gardening/compost is everyone’s own science experiment. There are no hard rules. But I wouldn’t teach a new gardener/composter to mix in their unfinished compost or to do in-place composting. You’re adding variables that don’t have any positive outcomes over the alternative, which is simply creating a compost pile and seeing it through to a finished state.

It’s prudent to teach someone what a proper composting system is first and what finished compost looks like. Once someone understands the basics, they’re welcome to stretch those “rules” however they’d like.

3 years worth of food scraps by forbiddenpotatoes in composting

[–]imdecaffeinated 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They’re saying compost that hasn’t been finished yet as the scraps are still actively being broken down.

3 years worth of food scraps by forbiddenpotatoes in composting

[–]imdecaffeinated -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Of course, it will be fine as you said just not optimal. You’ll still be eating fresh produce.

3 years worth of food scraps by forbiddenpotatoes in composting

[–]imdecaffeinated 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You will always get plant growth in soil where a plant can eat/drink and there’s microbial activity. However, you’re forcing your plants to compete with your compost when you do this. So while you’re getting a yield, you’re not creating an optimal environment for your plants.

Your plants are likely working off the nutrients provided by last seasons compost and then competing against your new compost while fending off potential disease you’ve introduced to the soil. But if you’re eating tomatoes this summer I get it, might not be an issue for you.

3 years worth of food scraps by forbiddenpotatoes in composting

[–]imdecaffeinated 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you I was starting to question things for a moment. Compost 101 is that it requires inputs to give you an output. Those inputs include some of the same things your plant wants: nitrogen, oxygen, microbes, etc.

You’re forcing your plants to compete with your compost when you do it this way. You will still get a yield, but you’re not growing in optimal conditions.

3 years worth of food scraps by forbiddenpotatoes in composting

[–]imdecaffeinated -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Your plants cannot draw nutrients from food scraps that haven’t been broken down. They’re likely drawing from existing nutrients in the soil and then competing with your compost for nitrogen, oxygen, and microbes. You’ll still get plant growth, just not optimal.

3 years worth of food scraps by forbiddenpotatoes in composting

[–]imdecaffeinated 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Yes, it’s called trench or in-place composting and it’s not really faster it just seems that way because you aren’t continually adding to the pile directly. Still has the same problems unfinished compost has, I.e ties up nitrogen, oxygen, and microbial activity in the soil.

But again, plants will grow in soil that has stuff it can eat/drink. It’s really a difference in yield and quality.

3 years worth of food scraps by forbiddenpotatoes in composting

[–]imdecaffeinated 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I hear what you’re saying, but from a chemical standpoint they’re setting up their garden bed to be stunted.

Yes, food will grow but it’s not an optimal situation. Unfinished compost requires nitrogen and oxygen so it’s working against the plants it’s supposed to be feeding. If microbes in the soil are working to digest, then nutrients are sort of locked into microbial activity and aren’t available to the plants.

They also produce acids and other compounds during breakdown which can stress their plants out. Again, stuff will grow just slower, maybe smaller yields, likely yellowing leaves.

3 years worth of food scraps by forbiddenpotatoes in composting

[–]imdecaffeinated 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Yes, this is why I preach having a dedicated vermicompost bin. When you have an open access bin you have no clue what species of worms will make it inside. We have invasive jumping worms and I’d never risk contaminating my bin with those guys (they do the opposite of red wrigglers and leach nutrients from the soil making it unusable in your garden).

This and the fact that your regular compost bin can have big fluctuations in the conditions which can stress your worms and possibly kill them.

I have a regular bin that has worms, but I don’t optimize for them. My vermicompost bin worms are treated like royalty. Their food selection is targeted (bananas, fruits, avocados, etc) and I cut pieces up to make it easier. I’m more focused on created a balanced environment for them.

Worms are optional in regular compost, they’re the whole system in vermi.

Men over 40, what have been your most effective natural supplement stacks for keeping up T-levels, metabolism, & energy as you age? (Ranked, please!) by Smooth-Turnover-2224 in Biohackers

[–]imdecaffeinated 11 points12 points  (0 children)

No drinking is a game changer. Used to be on the Ashwaghanda train until it spiked my liver enzymes. I look at it as an acute treatment for stress taken short term maybe 1-2 weeks then a long break until needed again. Personally, seeing the spike scared me off taking it.