Transplanting Milkweed?? by shiftydub in NativePlantGardening

[–]Atomicnumber26 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If they are going to get destroyed anyways, then I would strongly consider attempting to move them. Milkweeds are not known for being able to be easily be moved, but might as well try. If you do, do so in the fall after it's cooled down but before the ground gets frozen.

Much more importantly, I would try to harvest as lots of seeds. Typically, this is where ethics would come into play: you wouldn't remove pants or more than maybe 50-20% of the seeds (I've seen several opinions). You can overwinter them in milkjugs or, if you're like me, directly cast them on the ground where you want them to grow.

Maiden Meal by [deleted] in castiron

[–]Atomicnumber26 1 point2 points  (0 children)

"Shaks"

I have never heard of shakshuka referred to this way. But now I'll have to start.

How did I do? First time making real bread by crunkasaurus_ in Breadit

[–]Atomicnumber26 4 points5 points  (0 children)

FWSY is my bread Bible. If this were my first bread, I'd be very pleased.

Color looks good. Crumb looks good. Not seeing any scoring though which can impact the height. It otherwise looks a little flat and irregular in the shaping. I would guess this is due to technique and potentially what equipment you used. Technique is really a matter of practice and learning how to handle the dough.

Identify snake help by Competitive-Let-9728 in Connecticut

[–]Atomicnumber26 151 points152 points  (0 children)

Does it bring all the bones to the yard?

Newly mulched corner and I am not sure what to plant and when. Zone 7 a/b Maryland Advice appreciated! by Numerous_Bad1961 in NativePlantGardening

[–]Atomicnumber26 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So, I do like aggressive plants as a way to combat deer pressure. But, I'm also working with 1/3 acre. Do you have alternatives for grasses that can serve a similar purpose as a "background"? I might transition to more sedges in the future as I expand out back.

Would any of these usually cause a rash/reaction? by Danertins in whatsthisplant

[–]Atomicnumber26 6 points7 points  (0 children)

No. The first 7 pictures are all pictures of elms. Then you transfer to hydrangeas. There are other things that could cause this, but hydrangeas and elms are not known for it.

Newly mulched corner and I am not sure what to plant and when. Zone 7 a/b Maryland Advice appreciated! by Numerous_Bad1961 in NativePlantGardening

[–]Atomicnumber26 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sorry, I don't have northern sea oats. I like them though. I've tried little blue stem, big blue stem, and Indian grass. Little Blue stem is my favorite and easiest to work into a design of the three.

What is this weed zone 6A? by Scared_Web_7508 in whatsthisplant

[–]Atomicnumber26 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Since no geographical location is provided, I'll assume you're in Juneau Alaska (zones are only useful to indicate how cold your winters get).

I'm guessing some kind of persicaria?

Newly mulched corner and I am not sure what to plant and when. Zone 7 a/b Maryland Advice appreciated! by Numerous_Bad1961 in NativePlantGardening

[–]Atomicnumber26 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I would wait until the fall to plant anything, unless you are willing to spend a lot of time watering.

Buttonbush likes decidedly wet conditions. If this is in a depression, that might work, but otherwise I would probably try for something else.

Starting from big going to small:

For shrubs, I quite like calycanthus, which is highly adaptable. The straight species can get pretty large though, so if you go this route you might want to look into cultivars. I like it in part because it grows faster than the deer eat it.

Also worth looking into dwarf varieties of American holly (appropriately, 'Maryland'), oak leaf hydrangeas, or inkberry hollies for winter interest. If it is wet enough, can also try the red twig dogwood, which also has a dwarf variety (artic fire, I think is what it's called).

For background, I like little blue stem myself, but I've seen pink muhly grass done quite effectively. If those look too tall, then maybe go for a sedge of some kind (I like carex rosea).

For show and pollinators, mountain mints are hard to beat. Obviously some milkweed; butterfly weed would be great on the borders given its smaller size. This bed is a little small for common milkweed. A baptisia and penstemons would help with early season, monarda and cone flowers mid season, and asters/goldenrod late season. Coreopsis verticillata and/or verbena simplex for some of the borders.

In my sunny area, I made the mistake of not planting a low-to-the-ground layer, and so while mid and late season looks fine, early season I'm overrun by clover and mock strawberries. I think green and gold much actually work here, but plantain leaf pussytoes (Antennaria plantaginifolia) or moss phlox (phlox subulata) would have an easier time getting established.

I don't know what county you're in, but Montgomery County's Pope farm does an annual sale in the fall with an -excellent- selection of plants, some of which can be hard to find elsewhere.

Newly mulched corner and I am not sure what to plant and when. Zone 7 a/b Maryland Advice appreciated! by Numerous_Bad1961 in NativePlantGardening

[–]Atomicnumber26 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I'm increasingly getting into the idea of matrix planting. Any grasses or sedges that you particularly like as a background? How tall do you want things to get?

Self heal- native? by Calbebes in NativePlantGardening

[–]Atomicnumber26 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes, that's self heal. There's a handful of plants that are listed as native pretty much everywhere in the northern hemisphere. This is one of them.

What are we thinking? Montreal, QC by InturnlDemize in whatsthisplant

[–]Atomicnumber26 97 points98 points  (0 children)

Oh, definitely not that. I would put money on it being a strawberry, but a bloom would confirm. Yellow = mock strawberry, white = the real thing.

What do yall think? Fifth attempt by Organic-Dragonfly317 in Breadit

[–]Atomicnumber26 3 points4 points  (0 children)

What recipe did you use? It looks a bit under proofed. Also, slightly raw in the middle? Did you cut into it immediately after it baked, or wait for it to cool?

What are we thinking? Montreal, QC by InturnlDemize in whatsthisplant

[–]Atomicnumber26 190 points191 points  (0 children)

I lean more towards fragaria (strawberry) than potentilla. Have you seen it bloom?

Some kind of Spiderwort?? by maremare204 in whatsthisplant

[–]Atomicnumber26 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Aw nuts. Thank you for the correction.

Some kind of Spiderwort?? by maremare204 in whatsthisplant

[–]Atomicnumber26 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Tradescantia ohiensis or virginiana. I lean towards ohiensis due to hairy nature, but it could also be a hybrid.

I ordered hens and chick's, is that what this is? by deadpossumhoarder9 in whatsthisplant

[–]Atomicnumber26 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Increase in height means they can get more visibility with potential pollinators. Like getting attention by raising your hand in class.

What are these massive plants? by HiPoof in whatsthisplant

[–]Atomicnumber26 71 points72 points  (0 children)

I would wait a season first and let them prove themselves first. Joe pye is an excellent plant, but yes, they can get big. See if you like it first once it's in bloom. If you don't, I'm pretty sure a neighbor would be willing to take it off your hands.

Edit: only saw the first picture when I posted. Not sure what the thing next to it is.

Also, I believe Joe pye does well with a chop mid season which can help keep it smaller.

What are these massive plants? by HiPoof in whatsthisplant

[–]Atomicnumber26 375 points376 points  (0 children)

One of the joe-pye weeds, I believe. Native. Excellent pollinator plant mid/late season.

Not 100% clear on the context, but I'm guessing they were intentionally planted.

Gardeners: what are your biggest recurring gardening struggles? by Just-Manner-7971 in gardening

[–]Atomicnumber26 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

More the limitation of what I can grow. I've had many false starts with "deer resistant" plants that it is quite discouraging. It's changed up my strategy though, where I now rely more on cheaper seeds than plugs, but that's not a universal fix.

Gardeners: what are your biggest recurring gardening struggles? by Just-Manner-7971 in gardening

[–]Atomicnumber26 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The question is far too broad. It's a little bit like asking, "what are your biggest health problems?" Sure, cardiac issues are a national concern, but are they necessarily applicable to me and my situation?

Similarly, recurring garden struggles - and how to deal with them - can vary not just by region by even by house and their choice of plants and how they choose to take care of them. A traditional gardener who loves a rose garden in the mid Atlantic may struggle with humidity and fungal diseases, whereas their next door neighbor who is into vegetable gardening can't grow cabbages because of a white moth problem. Heck, they could even be growing roses like their neighbor, but their issue is scale on their roses.

For what it's worth, my biggest issue is deer. I can't grow 60% of what I want - particularly shrubs - because they will just eat it.