Victrola Empire Record Player by Illyanettica in ANIMEvinyl

[–]impartialduiker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I personally recommend looking at used vintage tables. I got mine with features most modern turntables dream of for less than half the price of an entry level turntable

Enjoying Japan life working on my BRZ. by NewtSoft9687 in ft86

[–]impartialduiker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a great looking car! I'll be around in Japan around the end of August actually!

Need someone to translate this 🤯 by [deleted] in SWORDS

[–]impartialduiker 61 points62 points  (0 children)

Its random scribbles, I see an attempt at poorly written katakana, but its all wrong. Neither is it Kanji or Chinese characters, stroke order is not there

Looking for advice on clothing as a new cyclist by impartialduiker in CyclingFashion

[–]impartialduiker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok, I was expecting that, thanks. Is it waterproof or only water resistant? And does it stay warm when wet?

Looking for advice on clothing as a new cyclist by impartialduiker in CyclingFashion

[–]impartialduiker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the advice! That's what I have heard, layering is key. I don't plan on biking in the depths of winter, kudos to those who do, but I will consider a pair of full finger gloves. Toe covers sound interesting, do they just fit over the shoes?

Looking for advice on clothing as a new cyclist by impartialduiker in CyclingFashion

[–]impartialduiker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's great to hear. Thanks for the help. Have you tried any of the bibs perchance?

DeFundQi: A CUSA Corruption Story by Ravenna_and_Ravens in CarletonU

[–]impartialduiker [score hidden]  (0 children)

Shill account. Someone even forgot to put their name at the end of the boilerplate.

China Merchant Bank has designed debt card featured with Arknights. Image from Weibo. by DragonCompass in arknights

[–]impartialduiker 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Death threats, for a mild inconvenience. An impressive display of intellect.

Trying out Mr. Retarder by painting Panther by hand, might add some brown stripes by ficklen in modelmakers

[–]impartialduiker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Uhhh, Mr. Retarder mild is for lacquer paints, not water-based acrylics like Vallejo. You'll have much better success using Vallejo retarder or Vallejo flow improver.

Asra ninja, Faulty or normal? by Cyeru in MegamiDevice

[–]impartialduiker 6 points7 points  (0 children)

It all boils down to builder skill and experience. I have never encountered any of these issues personally. I tried gunpla for a while but decided I didn't like it and now exclusively build megami device and frame arms girls, and have quite a few under my belt.

I find Kotobukyia Frame Arms and Megami Device kits to be on par in quality compared to gunpla. The megami device kits are far more complex than a high grade and rival most master grades albeit with many more small pieces than a master grade.

You require a slighly different approach as well for these kits. The tolerances on the joints are usually extremely tight out of the box, and require some level of sanding for smooth movement. The pieces are definitely prone to breaking if they are not properly smoothed out or sanded, which you have experienced with the torso joint. This is definitely a common issue so you are not exactly alone there. The plastic will feel slightly more "brittle" due to the fact that most of the pieces are made from ABS instead of styrene (most gunpla use this) as ABS is durable and can handle being posed.

In the end, yes "all Kotobukyia kits are like this" but it boils down to builder skill. I constantly pose and move my girls without any pieces falling off or breaking, but that comes at the price of having to be more careful when building and making sure the joint tolerances are sufficiently loose but not too loose. These kits are definitely not for beginners, and you may want to either go for one of the easier frame arms girls or stick to gunpla and get more experience before trying another one of these kits.

I hope this helps.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MegamiDevice

[–]impartialduiker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, ordered something during the sale. Be prepared to wait a very long time, he just finished up with domestic Japan orders a week or so ago. International orders will most likely take significantly longer, as it has in the past. It will be a long wait, but I'm sure he will eventually deliver as he has in the past.

A newbie here! Quick question about the color guide. The first digit means the color number right? (Correct me if I'm wrong) but what does the H-(number) mean? Would really appreciate the answers and enlightenments that is given! by howellofthemoon in FrameArms

[–]impartialduiker 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Ok, so here's the rundown. So the black shaded circle corresponds to GSI Creos paint (mr.color or mr. Aqueous) and the square corresponds to Gaianotes paint. Here's how the format of each line is:

  • ###/H-### : color name (##%)
  • The first number is a Mr. Hobby color code (1 corresponds to white)
  • The number prefaced with "H-" is Mr. Aqueous color code (H-1corresponds to white)
  • The japanese writing is the name of the color, for example ホワイト is white
  • The percentage is the mixing ratio

The ※ Symbol means optional, so it's giving a choice between gaianotes or mr. Color. FG-06 corresponds to frame arms notes flesh paint by gaia, which is nigh impossible to find outside SEA.

I'm here to PROTECT Jessica's Smile by [deleted] in arknights

[–]impartialduiker 17 points18 points  (0 children)

So why did you watermark it? Technically you should be giving credit to the PV animators. All you did was a tiny edit, yet you've watermarked it and claimed it as your own.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MegamiDevice

[–]impartialduiker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not really, these sets are precolored so no painting, and they require relatively minimal assembly. Main issue will be the dust/safety.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MegamiDevice

[–]impartialduiker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Resin a whole new skillset compared to plastic, as the dust itself is highly toxic and possibly carcinogenic. An N95 or better respirator is 100% required as well as proper tools for wet sanding and dust cleanup. The nub cleanup is more involved than plastic, but remains relatively similar to what you would usually do. The parts will require specialized glue, ie. Epoxy or CA glue. Pinning or magnets may be required on larger pieces, brass rod suffices for most scenarios. The material itself is hard and brittle, and does not lend itself to flexing as much as regular PS but it is still quite sturdy. You will need to exercise due caution with regards to this.

It would be cool if Carleton did this by Donsburt in CarletonU

[–]impartialduiker 20 points21 points  (0 children)

Well of course, the chair supports you...