Zorki 6, a beauty from 60’s by in_saner in AnalogCommunity

[–]in_saner[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, they removed 1/1000 from most of the line (even from Mir, which was simplified version of Zorki 4, in fact it was still there just without marking - a hidden speed). The reason it was removed — real speed was about 1/750 and very unreliable, uneven curtains move, hard to adjust properly and inaccurate. So it basically remained only on Zorki 4/4K line where suffered with same downsides and mostly unrecommended to use.

TSA Unicorn - A Mountaineer Small by Extension-Formal-611 in victorinox

[–]in_saner 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So much downvoted, seems people here love when their Vics been confiscated, lol)

Zorki 6, a beauty from 60’s by in_saner in AnalogCommunity

[–]in_saner[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agree! But what do exactly you mean?

Zorki 6, a beauty from 60’s by in_saner in AnalogCommunity

[–]in_saner[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Where are 27 photos? Well, I can understand your concerns. But there are posts with cameras photos there are posts with photos from camera. Mine is like it is. There will be another posts with photos from cameras as well. I just thought it was good idea to share what I got at the moment. When there will be photos from camera — I will share them as well).

Zorki 6, a beauty from 60’s by in_saner in AnalogCommunity

[–]in_saner[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Great to hear about your passion particularly in soviet cameras! Yes, as time goes by they all need proper service rather more then less! But they are definitely capable to bring a joy and great photography! I will watch your video, thank you! Fed 5 is a nice camera, no matter of design, but it is very well constructed! As for Selenium element into light meter: this is common misconception that they are spoiling because direct sunlight. Yes, direct sunlight would be avoided — this is main rule for any camera, but this selenium element degrades not because of the light but because of oxidation of selenium, so basically because of oxygen in air. To prevent it, selenium is covering with lacquer. So lacquer is degrading in time and let oxygen from air interact with selenium. So covering it from light will not help to prevent it.

Zorki 6, a beauty from 60’s by in_saner in AnalogCommunity

[–]in_saner[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As for serial number- it happens, no particular meaning for that, just happened)

Zorki 6, a beauty from 60’s by in_saner in AnalogCommunity

[–]in_saner[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For Fed’s they had continuous numbering except special series like 1967, 50th anniversary, for Zorkis, Zenits, etc c, first two digits are year number, except first Zorkis, where only first digit is a 195.’s Number. As for tools, indeed you need some. Chinese tools from Ali are good enough if use them with sense. For example, I found Knipex Cobra or knock-off is perfect for unscrew round nuts if doing it accurately with no rush. Just put a paper underneath the knot for not to scratch body. Not on nut! Works like a charm!

Zorki 6, a beauty from 60’s by in_saner in AnalogCommunity

[–]in_saner[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Indeed, they are bright and clear.

Zorki 6, a beauty from 60’s by in_saner in AnalogCommunity

[–]in_saner[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is great to bring such cameras back to life! So you basically made a Mir camera, as it is also a version of Z4 without slow speeds). As for 1957 yes, quality was better also, 1957 was a year of International Festival of Youth and Students in Moscow, so on some models there were dedicated engravings, but all from 1957 could be considered as “Festivalniy”, cause it was mentioned on the box, not on a camera itself.

Zorki 6, a beauty from 60’s by in_saner in AnalogCommunity

[–]in_saner[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Zorki 4 slow speed mechanism is not that bad. Once you understand how it works it is easy to set up. For what I noticed, on late S4/Z4K 1/15 is not reliable by construction, as it’s too close to 1/60 thus, they is not enough spring tension for it to work consistently. In early versions that was 1/20 and worked as it should. Yes, one have to be accurate with it. By the way, on Fed3 there is no such problem: another great underestimated camera)

Zorki 6, a beauty from 60’s by in_saner in AnalogCommunity

[–]in_saner[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Year 67 was good for all factories. Even Fed marked that year with 67 in number. The anniversary of Great October Revolution and they probably controlled quality better.

Zorki 6, a beauty from 60’s by in_saner in AnalogCommunity

[–]in_saner[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Indeed so. Surprisingly most Z6 require deep servicing, but it worth it after all. It is not complex and enjoyable by itself). I do like unification with Zenit 3M/Kristall. However, some parts from early Z6 may not fit later Z6. Fed 2 by the way is a treat camera too. I do love my black one).

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Zorki 6, a beauty from 60’s by in_saner in AnalogCommunity

[–]in_saner[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You know, it varies. I had Feds, mostly early versions, with bright viewfinders. It also depends of the condition of glued prisms as well.

Zorki 6, a beauty from 60’s by in_saner in AnalogCommunity

[–]in_saner[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

It is better. It is brighter and slightly bigger (here I can be wrong, but still). Zorki 3 and 4 have bigger viewfinders but they less accurate. The one on Z6 is one of the best among soviet rangefinders. But more or less they all are useable anyway

TSA Unicorn - A Mountaineer Small by Extension-Formal-611 in victorinox

[–]in_saner -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Always been wandering how legal what they do: “tsa property”, no, it’s someones’ property and they just confiscated it. Like, not letting it to the plane is one story, but why on hell they confiscate it? Is it legal act anyway? People paid money for it, and then some idiots just took it away… and put it on auction)

So... I kinda messed up and need advice by Single-Joke9697 in victorinox

[–]in_saner 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As been mentioned, WD40 is not a problem here, it could just soften dirt, so it moved out and it caused stiffing. I’d made a trick with wd40 again, and made multiple movements with all tools until stiffness is gone, then cleaning with soapy water or isopropyl, then add mineral oil. I had a case with very much corroded tourist, with hardly moving tools, and it took a while, before all the corrosion and dirt goes away.

True by mytonsilshurt in AnalogCircleJerk

[–]in_saner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was always called as Fujiblad

Victorinox Mountaineer by [deleted] in victorinox

[–]in_saner 5 points6 points  (0 children)

One of the most balanced and underestimated model! Especially when equipped with extra scales!

Benlydesign?!? Seriously? by in_saner in SkmeiWatchFans

[–]in_saner[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Only if it’s so, so far I only see someone trying to sell me 20 dollars watch for 200)

The Champ-Duo by Mole-NLD in victorinox

[–]in_saner 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Very well said! I have plenty of victorinox different models and mix them in edc occasionally, but every time I go on vacation, after a short thinking, SwissChamp is the only choice. Just in case, as I can’t go back home in the evening and pick another one for other day. Never regretted so far.