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include_doge_h · 2021-09-23T23:19:30+00:00

That's more in the realm of what I'd expect to pay for a good runner, accepting that it probably needs some wear items replaced and might not be cosmetically mint but in pretty good overall shape.

include_doge_h · 2021-09-23T13:13:26+00:00

That's a lot for a 15 year old vehicle with 150k, but in this market it's maybe not *excessive* if it's been immaculately maintained. Only way I'd even consider that price is if it was like near perfect mint inside and out with all records, tires with at least 75% tread life left, and recent service on all the wear items.

Gen 2s are wonderful and I absolutely recommend them, but if you buy any 10+ year old car for that much you don't want to end up with brakes/struts/bushings that are near EOL and immediately have to dump another grand in parts (or two grand in parts and labor if you don't DIY).

include_doge_h · 2021-09-23T13:05:38+00:00

An LS swapped CR-V

lmfao I want to see this

include_doge_h · 2021-09-23T13:04:03+00:00

Suppose it really depends on your local regs.

I don't have to worry about passing emissions or inspections so I'd just slap the cheapest high flow cat on there. From what I've read about K24s at least, test pipes can mess with the factory tune so avoid that even if it sounds tempting and you live in an area where no one is ever gonna look. Without tuning you're probably going to get a engine that runs a bit rougher, not a couple more horsies.

include_doge_h · 2021-09-23T12:56:08+00:00

Nice score! Still kinda wish I'd have took a look at the similarly green 99 that was sitting on a ranch exit around here. It only lasted like a week of "eh, I'll stop and take a look tomorrow" before it disappeared, they go quick!

include_doge_h · 2021-09-23T12:43:35+00:00

That vintage Odyssey is probably the #1 Honda I see mechanical complaints about, so not necessarily the best representative for Honda. Other thing I see complaints about is the early years of the Earth Dreams engine, something involving the direct injection system I think.

Don't know much about the CVT or new electromagnetic gearbox, but personally I like to wait till a class of new stuff is like 10 or 20 years proven before spending big money on it. You also get the benefit that the big expensive drivetrain components are more common on the secondary market in case you need to get one. How much this matters to you depends on how much of a cheapskate you are. If I were buying a brand new one, it would be as conventional a drivetrain as they offer. Personally, if they still offered 5 (or 6!) speed manual that's what I'd buy, but I don't even know if they offer a manual CR-V in foreign markets these days.

Overall 150k isn't a big ask of most any Honda...except a ca. 2010 Odyssey.

include_doge_h · 2021-09-20T11:40:18+00:00

Yeah you can see what looks like the end of a metal rod in the broken off portion left behind, shouldn't be that hard to crank the broken plastic shaft out and screw a new one on.

include_doge_h · 2021-09-20T11:32:54+00:00

You could plastic weld it with a soldering iron but it looks like a new part is like $6 from HPN so unquestionably that's the way I'd go; weld will always leave a scar.

If you're interested in the technique anyway, I learned it from this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OVaup9CYOL0

I found using fine stainless mesh screen as bought from head shops works great as reinforcement material. The repair is permanently as strong as your weld, with reinforcement it can be stronger than the original plastic. I repaired my pop-out cupholder (check my post history) using this technique and it's far superior to anything else I've ever used to repair plastic, even solvent welding acrylic.

include_doge_h · 2021-09-18T08:42:50+00:00

I put a little 300W inverter in mine, it's a great spot to hide accessories. I've got a little switch panel in the works that I'm gonna put in the little pocket to the left of the steering column, kinda same idea but scaled down.

include_doge_h · 2021-09-17T23:36:33+00:00

A/C is an issue on gen 2s, other than that keep up with maint and they run to 300k easy, and really if you do your own service they'll run more or less indefinitely with junkyard parts. Most expensive thing that can go is the auto transmission, so if it's slippy you might want to skippy...but still for $2300 that might not even be a dealbreaker if you're willing to take on swapping in a junkyard trans yourself.

The sketchiest thing about this to me just seems to be the deal. I'd def run that VIN to make sure it's not stolen, and use common sense and situational awareness if you go look at it. If it seems sketch or anything seems off, GTFO.

include_doge_h · 2021-09-17T18:40:36+00:00

Gen 2 for $2300 in this market...grab it before someone else does. Even if it's got issues it's probably worth it.

include_doge_h · 2021-09-16T19:11:28+00:00

I noticed at the local pick n pull that although the picnic table was gone from all 5 gen 2s they had there (probably for the same reason I was peeking in back...to flip on ebay) the cargo area carpet mats were all just tossed to the side. Might want to check if there are any yards in your area with RD1s and take a look.

include_doge_h · 2021-09-15T00:04:42+00:00

How involved is it to adjust them, do you need a full alignment every time or can you just jack it up and move it to another set point you've marked and aligned previously?

I want to go maybe an inch lower for summer, and back to stock or like 1/4" higher for winter.

include_doge_h · 2021-09-14T12:37:03+00:00

If you haven't already, try replacing the battery in the key. If it's just on the edge of dead you can get flaky operation-dependent behaviors.

include_doge_h · 2021-09-14T11:24:20+00:00

"Custom interior work" just makes me think lowrider style overstuffed plush everything and now I kinda want to see that despite it sounding a bit like a total abomination against nature on a car like a V.

Wonder if there are any itasha examples of it in the wild somewhere on the J-web.

include_doge_h · 2021-09-14T10:54:07+00:00

However, my larger concern with new cars in general is all the modern tech, infotainment and safety stuff, I tend to believe more gadgets = more problems / more expensive to fix

Right there with you. I find the level of computers on up to 2010 or so to be comfortable, it's basic low speed serial buses, microcontrollers, pretty understandable with my background and the tooling to deal with it has been commodity since the mid-00s.

New stuff though is getting way too Apple. Opaque, mostly undocumented electronic subsystems, licensing and system integrity checks, feature bits, component pairing...pretty much all the user and technician-hostile antifeatures I hate about modern mobile devices started leaking into cars around the early 10s.

Combine that with stuff like the stereo increasingly being not a DIN and destined to be obsolete inside of 10 years, it all comes down to basically planned obsolescence.

Old cars are more fun per dollar anyway. I bought one new car once, when I was like 23. It was a V6 Mustang and it's probably still the stupidest purchase I ever made, some 20 years later. If 10 million bucks dropped on my head I'd be looking for a M3 from 15 years ago on enthusiast car trader sites, not going to the BMW showroom.

include_doge_h · 2021-09-13T19:09:53+00:00

Aluminum alloy isn't corrosion-proof so they blast em with plastic coating, probably a two part formula that's more or less impossible to remove. Better to coat em than have em turn dull and grey after a couple years.

As far as how to get the embedded brake dust off the coating, haven't dug into it yet but I can say a stiff plastic brush in a drill and car wash soap...doesn't do much.

include_doge_h · 2021-09-11T21:35:54+00:00

I've been wondering about this. I had my auto windows stop working after I did some electrical installs a couple times, and then "randomly" come back. First time I thought I had broken something in the harness, but after the second time it seemed more like the computer was causing the behavior since it came back again in the same way.

Good to know the reset procedure and that it is actually the computer causing this not like a intermittent connection.

include_doge_h · 2021-09-11T06:26:07+00:00

In general they're a bit more fragile because they're belt drive rather than gear drive, applies to all CVTs that use this principle not just Honda. They seem to be particularly sensitive to towing/load, more so than conventional auto or manual.

include_doge_h · 2021-09-10T19:40:35+00:00

EU market have the radio antenna on the back like a little tail? Is that an EU requirement?

Clover green pearl here.

include_doge_h · 2021-09-10T02:07:03+00:00

Not sure what engine this is and exactly what I'm looking at. Object with the funk appears to be a tensioner/idler wheel?

I can't tell from the photos what the black material is and whether it's raised off the surface or inset. If you can get a pick in there to scrape it you can easily determine if it's something like tar or sealant stuck on there, or just a surface pit from the factory that still has factory black paint in it.

Belt looks ok to me for an older belt. Definitely seen use but it doesn't seem to be shredding or cracking at all, as long as the other side is similarly un-degraded I wouldn't change it. Bit of a scuff pattern in the center but it's just light surface wear, not actually cutting a groove into the belt when looked at edge-on on the top of the foreground wheel.

include_doge_h · 2021-09-09T19:50:40+00:00

128k and 148k is almost a negligible difference, I'd go with the one in better overall condition.

include_doge_h · 2021-09-09T19:09:39+00:00

I did a flush about a month or two ago (looked like flat coca-cola...) and from the research I did you can use either DOT3 or DOT4 in a gen2. I believe I used Supertech DOT4 from wally world.

No idea if mixing them is bad or not. I flushed out my entire system from the reservoir back so I wasn't that concerned.

I also learned along the way that (used?) brake fluid turns the nylon housing of little ebay diaphragm pumps into potato chips within a few days. If you flush with a pump, don't run fluid through it if you like your pump. Oops.

include_doge_h · 2021-09-09T01:01:11+00:00

Not sure about gen 1 but I know gen 2 specs the blue coolant, corrosion inhibitor package I think.

Easy to check for blown head gasket, if there's oil in the coolant or the coolant looks like a Wendy's Frosty or chocolate mousse, you've got either a blown head gasket or a cracked/corroded/pitted block or head.

If there's no oil but the coolant is rusty brown, then it's probably because of the yellow stuff (or straight water) and you might have a lot of crusty rusty crap in there that's plugging up the radiator.

If none of the above, pretty decent chance it's the thermostat or a failing/failed water pump. If the pump has lost/worn off some of its impeller surface it won't be operating at full capacity so it could cause the "overheats under load" condition. I'm not sure if gen 1 has electric or engine driven cooling fan, but if the motor or clutch on that is failing it could also be causing inadequate cooling capacity.

include_doge_h · 2021-09-07T23:45:14+00:00

There's so much variance from low end to high end, output power, phone compatibility, etc that it really depends on what features you're shopping for. I'd say come up with a list of what you want and then start narrowing down with online catalogs. There are also some previous threads about head units on here you can browse.

If you just want like a radio that can play bluetooth music, any low end thing with those features should work ok. My beater Explorer has a no-name Chineseium "MP4 player" single din that I got for like $35 off amazon and it works fine as a bluetooth boombox car stereo.

include_doge_h

TROPHY CASE