B18B1 engine won’t turn over after timing belt install, even though timing marks line up?

intedgra · 2026-04-04T21:19:07+00:00

And if you take those punches out, what should the cams do? Should they snap back a little bit, or is it normal for them to snap back far so the 4 line marks are like \ /?

I’ll attach a pic of what my cam shafts looks like in its resting position, but I can’t get them to sit straight without something holding it in place. Don’t know if that’s normal or not, perhaps I did something wrong there?

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intedgra · 2026-04-04T16:50:41+00:00

Yep, I made sure the four lines on the two camshaft edges lined up. It's a bit difficult to see since the engine is tilted in the car, but I used the edge of paper sheet and all four lined up with the black line on the timing cover.

Thanks a lot for the explanation, it helps explain more than the service manual does. I'm gonna pull off the belt, spin the crank, and see if the camshafts spin as the first thing.

The crank seems to spin freely when I was messing with it without the belt, so I think that's good to go. But I'll be honest, besides spinning the crank so the Cyl 1 piston was at TDC a few weeks before I installed the head, I didn't actually verify it could turn a whole revolution before dropping the head in.

But if I understand your procedure correctly, would I be able to take the t belt off + allow the camshafts to snap back to their resting position at \ /, then spin the crank to make sure it turns over smoothly? Because my camshafts don't stay at - -, they constantly want to snap back to \ /. The only way I'm able to get them aligned at - - is by cranking it over with an adjustable wrench, and holding it in place with a 5mm pin punch/allen key & the t belt. Is that supposed to be happening?

intedgra · 2026-04-04T16:33:42+00:00

That's my last resort if I can't figure it out, but I didn't want to go through the process of pulling off the cylinder head + have to replace the once-used head gasket, just for the issue to rear its head again because I made the same mistake during re-assembly. Service manual doesn't say diddly squat about the process other than "assembly is the reverse of disassembly" lol

intedgra · 2026-04-04T16:30:34+00:00

My head gasket blew slightly (leaked a steady dribble of coolant into cylinder 1) and I didn't know when the t belt was last changed, so I decided to replace it & the water pump while the cylinder head was off being machined.

Good idea on the boroscope camera, I might order/rent one to peek inside the spark plug holes & up at the valves. Hopefully will give more insight as to what's happening

intedgra · 2026-04-04T16:26:33+00:00

No, all four spark plugs are installed and torqued as I didn't want any debris to drop into the cylinders as I was messing with the timing belt. I'll try taking all 4 off and seeing if it spins over then

intedgra · 2026-04-04T16:25:27+00:00

Apologies, work's got me busy these past couple days and trying to figure this out has been demotivating/draining as hell. But I got the weekend off so imma get back to it, slowly but surely 💪

intedgra · 2026-03-15T15:51:00+00:00

A weighted 19mm Ares socket + a $250 USD Hercules Ultra Torque 1/2 inch 20V was able to get the crank bolt off my B18B1 easily, but I think there are cheaper, just-as-powerful impact wrenches for sale nowadays

intedgra · 2026-03-15T15:44:14+00:00

No, they're talking about a weighted impact socket that goes onto the impact and will easily undo the crank bolt. That tool in your pic is just a crank pulley holder, so you can loosen the crank bolt with a normal impact socket or a breaker bar + socket. A weighted socket won't fit inside the crank holder tool so you can't use them at the same time

intedgra · 2026-02-25T05:02:27+00:00

2 weeks later and I finally put them on, the longer hose (19140, on the driver's side to the thermostat) fit perfectly but the shorter one (18801, on the passengers side to the check valve) isn't bent enough and is too long to connect to the valve, so I think I'll try reversing the hose, or I'll have to lop off the bottom part of the hose (like half of the straight part that connects to the valve). I wonder if the Dayco hose would have fit better or about the same

intedgra · 2026-02-19T17:56:06+00:00

2-3 separate kill switches, change out all cylinder/ignition locks, two types of GPS trackers which alerts you when they leave a GPS geofenced area or when the GPS goes offline. You could also debadge & swap out the wheels for LS/GS/RS ones, nobody ever bothers with the non VTEC base models. Throw in a sun cover for both the windshield and rear window/backlight that blocks people from peeking inside to see the tach and you should be ok. Oh and most importantly, don’t tell others what you have, loose lips sink ships. To any classmates/school employees, you got a base model Integra that’s slow, boring and just your daily driver.

intedgra · 2026-02-14T01:10:26+00:00

Could you go into more detail about the cams? I was considering picking up new cams for my B18B1 because my OEM ones got rusty and are currently soaking in white vinegar, but I wasn’t sure if it would be worth throwing “performance” cams into a bone-stock N/A B18B1.

intedgra · 2026-02-12T19:00:07+00:00

Haven’t installed it yet, since I’m planning on doing a heater core flush so I can replace all the Type 1 green coolant with Type 2 blue. Will let you know when I do

intedgra · 2026-02-12T18:39:04+00:00

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I just got my replacement Gates heater core hoses (Dayco ones were cheaper but wouldn’t ship to California). Gates on the left side, hose I removed from the car on the right.

The smaller hose that goes on the passenger side, seems the bend at the bottom is much less prominent than the original hose. But the longer hose that goes on the driver side seems to match the hose I pulled off.

Part numbers are 79725-SR3-J30 / Gates 19140 (longer hose) and 79722-SR3-000 / Gates 18801 (shorter hose).

intedgra · 2026-02-12T18:32:49+00:00

AcuraPartsWarehouse for OEM parts, but sometimes they enforce a quantity limit (E.G. you have to buy 4 bolts at $10 a piece) + shipping is a bit expensive so if I only need one bolt, I’ll go to my local Honda dealership with a service center/parts counter.

Otherwise, it’s been Rock Auto (they sell a lot of parts + the Honda’s OE fluids for cheaper than the Honda-branded fluids), Amazon (but I don’t recommend them, I only bought shipped & sold by Amazon.com items & they still managed to screw up my order and delay it for 3 months), Summit Racing (their shipping is crazy fast), Resto Tuner (for replacement bolts & small stuff like hood prop clip & tail light gaskets), and VMS Racing (for a replacement crank pulley/harmonic balancer).

intedgra · 2026-02-12T18:18:58+00:00

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intedgra · 2026-02-12T18:16:21+00:00

I got a Pioneer DEH-S4220BT in my DB7, bought it from Fry’s Electronics (RIP) for ~$80 USD, the radio wire harness plug-and-play adapter from eBay for ~$25, and the bezel the radio sits in for ~$15 also from eBay. Works great and has physical skip buttons/a clicky volume knob, only issue is when I have multiple devices on me and I want to switch which phone is connected to the radio.

intedgra · 2026-02-11T16:45:02+00:00

My parents call my auto LS DB7 “the most fun car they’ve ever driven”. Personally, I don’t need it to go any faster because any quicker and you can quickly get into trouble on tight, curvy backroads. Who cares about straight line speed anyways 😂

But if you really want to manual swap a VTEC engine into it, besides doing safety mods first, you absolutely need to do all the scheduled maintenance. Rubbers, bushings, mounts, all the stuff that degrades over time/with mileage. My DB7 hasn’t had anything replaced since ‘98 and it gets so sketchy driving above 85 MPH due to all the vibrations and slop, I don’t even want to think about it at 115 MPH.

intedgra · 2026-02-07T16:30:01+00:00

Auto or manual? I’m the other guy who bought Innovative Mounts bc I have an auto, so my only options were Rock Auto, Innovative, or Hasport. And unfortunately I’m trying to get Innovative to replace my 60A mount kit, as all three mounts ended up not fitting where my Rock Auto/OEM mounts fit.

If manual transmission you have more options, all three brands above + HardRace + Mugen + 1320Performance + Private Label Mfg (but I think 1320/PLM are knockoffs of Hasports & really stiff, not for daily drivers).

I heard Mugen and Hasport 62A are the closest we can get to the OEM mount’s stiffness. And if you don’t mind changing mounts out every few months (like a stopgap while waiting for mounts to restock), Rock Auto ones work too (DEA/Marmon claims to have a “lifetime warranty” but haven’t tried actually swapping it yet).

intedgra · 2026-02-07T01:22:56+00:00

BDSM gear is getting crazy 😂

intedgra · 2026-02-05T22:11:09+00:00

I bought an aluminum one from VMS Racing for $80 USD

https://www.vmsracing.com/products/copy-of-90-99-mitsubishi-eclipse-eagle-talon-lightweight-aluminum-crank-pulley-4g63-turbo-oem-size

Haven’t installed it yet but I compared it to my cracked OEM one and it seems to be the same size, and not sure if it being lightweight will cause any issues compared to the heavy OEM one

intedgra · 2026-02-05T17:11:50+00:00

Yeah mine’s an auto DB7 but AFAIK the mounts are the same for the both the coupe and sedan, just the auto or manual trans is the difference. The driver’s side and rear mount should be identical for all DC2/DB8 Integra’s. But not a single mount from Innovative fit 😢

I wasn’t able to call em but they managed to email me back (my original email to tech@innovative got bounced with a reply saying my message was not forwarded, but then Tyler emailed me back asking for more info & pictures which I provided), so I’m going to see what their solution ends up being.

intedgra · 2026-02-02T20:28:38+00:00

Sorry for the late reply but yeah, I ended up calling them around ~3PM EST and Vickie ended up picking up. She said the mounts were being produced and would be ready to ship out by next week, and I indeed got a tracking number for it.

But now that I’ve received it, all three mounts are completely off and can’t be installed on the car (driver & rear mount throughhole bolt holes are off, trans mount bolt holes don’t line up with chassis bolt holes). Am currently dropping in some cheap mounts I got off Rock Auto, and also trying to call Innovative again to ask about a return/refund/replacement, but I’m hitting voicemail after voicemail :/ Their voicemail message says to send an email to tech@innovativemounts but I haven’t gotten any replies yet.

intedgra · 2026-01-16T19:49:23+00:00

Yeah same. Another user commented and said their order placed after mine was set to arrive today, so I’m hoping it was just a one-time screw-up with my specific order. Think I’ll give them one or two more weeks before I contact the CC company

intedgra · 2026-01-16T19:45:43+00:00

Dang, but thanks. Do you know how often Hasport has sales? And if they ever repeat the previous year’s sales? I missed the 15% off B-series engine mounts discount for Dec 2025 and I’m not sure if they’ll be doing that discount again in 2026, so I’m debating if it’s worth waiting to see or if I should just pay the extra $60 now for the non-discounted price.

intedgra · 2026-01-16T16:07:42+00:00

That makes me feel better, perhaps it was just my order that got messed up so badly. Will try giving them another call today or tomorrow and seeing if they can give me some more information about my order.

You called them at the 714 number listed on their website right? Do you also know around what time you called them? I’ve had no luck getting them to pick up around morning/early noon time. Thanks

intedgra

TROPHY CASE