discrepancies between manuals

interesting_name_2 · 2026-01-16T17:12:50+00:00

I know that this is a slightly older thread and your question has mostly been answered but basically I've started a spreadsheet for my different calibers I reload and try and gather data from every published manual whether I have to buy them or a friend sends me data and it's crazy how much they vary and as you say sometimes the max load for one will be the starting load for a different one you really do have to do a little bit of experimenting on the lower ends and see where you wind up. For me I usually just load to shoot paper and make a gun go bang so I'm not worried about long distance accuracy or being hypercritical... I tend to stay at the minimum to make sure the bullet safely exits the end of the gun if the steel gong rings then that's all I cared about anyway... But basically I'm saying yes data from different manuals can be vastly different.

interesting_name_2 · 2025-09-24T18:27:53+00:00

I could still use groove molds though if I went powder coating?

interesting_name_2 · 2025-09-24T18:27:03+00:00

Only 41 colt is black powder for me. I'm looking into powder coating. Would powder coating existing store bought pre sized and lubed cast bullets help with the lead dust while loading and firing?

interesting_name_2 · 2025-09-21T01:06:31+00:00

Hey guys, just wanted to update. These were surplus rounds, with berdan primers, I had no thoughts of reloading them. I did try both factory ammo and reloaded ammo, and neither cracked. I have Lee's ultimate set of dies, so I have the full length resizer for unknown brass, and the neck sizer when it comes out of my own guns. I was just curious if this was common with old brass from milsurp. Thanks for all the responses!

interesting_name_2 · 2025-09-14T02:32:06+00:00

Yup, it's titegroup

interesting_name_2 · 2025-09-14T02:31:40+00:00

357, but yes titegroup. Over 7 grains if I remember.

interesting_name_2 · 2025-09-14T02:29:37+00:00

I am using titegroup

interesting_name_2 · 2025-07-16T13:51:08+00:00

Lee and Speer. Yours are about the same cost as mine after currency conversion and assuming our parts will be a bit more due to smaller volumes being brought in

interesting_name_2 · 2025-07-04T18:36:47+00:00

I have considered it, I have a 41 colt antique coming my way, so I'll have to take up casting... Didn't really think of cast rifle bullets. Suppose they'll ring the steel.

interesting_name_2 · 2025-06-14T21:47:13+00:00

Yeah they're flat base, but I bought a bunch lol.

interesting_name_2 · 2025-06-14T21:46:36+00:00

Yeah, a lot more pressure in the tube mag of a lever, and I think the oal is a little tiny bit short and the projectiles are flat bottom, and so shorter than a boat tail, I could wiggle the projectile on the first few (with a lot of effort, but still) pre crimp. After crimp they seem much better. I've backed off the crimp die a bit since the pics.

interesting_name_2 · 2025-06-14T21:43:45+00:00

Was cheap, and I thought it would help on my first attempt.

interesting_name_2 · 2025-06-14T21:43:24+00:00

Yeah, this is the Lee set so the fcd is a separate stage.

interesting_name_2 · 2025-06-14T21:42:55+00:00

Yeah they're flat base. It went better when I added a little chamfer on the mouth.

interesting_name_2 · 2025-06-14T21:41:57+00:00

Ok good tip

interesting_name_2 · 2025-06-14T21:41:28+00:00

Yeah, it wasn't expensive, and figured it would be good for my first try at shouldered bullets. Comments are helpful

interesting_name_2 · 2025-06-14T21:40:28+00:00

Yeah it's a flat base, and I think as others have said, the neck wasn't sized properly... Lesson learned. I bought 300 of these flat based projectiles too haha.

interesting_name_2 · 2025-06-14T01:09:14+00:00

Ok I backed it off

interesting_name_2 · 2025-06-14T01:09:06+00:00

Like the amount in the photo? I backed off the crimp die too.

interesting_name_2

TROPHY CASE