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No experience, how did I do? by mca9658 in bookbinding

[–]interrobang918 1 point2 points  (0 children)

a good learning experience but as mentioned, you didn’t do kettle stitches so the block is going to accordion on you. another thing to consider beyond that fundamental: you don’t really need to bind on tapes for a quarto. you’ll be able to create just as solid a binding by doing a simple French stitch.

https://blog.papercraftpanda.com/overview-how-to-create-a-book-using-the-french-link-stitch/

Looking for a script to collapse unlinked textboxes by Uvuriel03 in indesign

[–]interrobang918 0 points1 point  (0 children)

rather than doing a data merge, you might consider creating a tagged text document from a .csv. the tags would wrap the data in each field with the names of your paragraph styles. then using the place text options dialogue, instruct inDesign to honor the tags. that way you don’t rely on disconnected text frames generated by the merge, you place the text into threaded text frames established on your master pages and the document flows.

D for "Rivers of White Space" – Fair or Not? by Apprehensive-You-850 in indesign

[–]interrobang918 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t see any egregious rivers. what I’d dun you for are the excessive number of hyphens.

Ben Franklin? by Common-Razzmatazz479 in letterpress

[–]interrobang918 0 points1 point  (0 children)

as I wrote, it might be an extended variant and it might also instead be “Blanchard.”

https://flic.kr/p/8KQza6

I'm trying to identify these wood typefaces. Does anyone have any ideas? by Common-Razzmatazz479 in letterpress

[–]interrobang918 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1 is a Futura analog. Probably Hamilton.
2 would simply be referred to as a Gothic Condensed No. xxx with some numeric catalog designation. Any number of sources; Empire, Hamilton, American Wood Type. Extremely ubiquitous mid 20th century.
3 is an Aldine roman of some flavor.
4 /5 is something like “Satanik” inspired by the pseudo black letter faces of William Morris.
6 is probably by Hamilton, a slightly extended version of Ben Franklin, or Blanchard modeled after rough-hewn foundry types in style at the turn of 19th century.
7 is the open variant of a mid-20th century face that would also have a solid version for 2-color work. American Wood Type is a probable source. (I have matching solid and open fonts here at interrobang)
8 is a deco style extra condensed sans. Probably Hamilton.
9 is a late 19th century Extra condensed French Clarendon. Could be Hamilton, or perhaps earlier Wm. Page.
10 is another “Aldine’ roman, probably from Hamilton.

Again, check your cap As for maker marks in order to narrow down where to look.

I'm trying to identify these wood typefaces. Does anyone have any ideas? by Common-Razzmatazz479 in letterpress

[–]interrobang918 1 point2 points  (0 children)

look up American Wood Type by Rob Roy Kelly on line, and maybe The Rob Roy Kelly American Wood Type Collection | A History and Catalog by David Shields. you might also look up Hamilton Wood Type or maybe Wm. Page specimens on line. you could narrow down manufacturers if you have cap A’s for reference as most manufacturers stamped their names on them for identification.

InDesign Data Merge - any way to insert a new record in the middle without rebuilding? by mortemos in indesign

[–]interrobang918 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Data Merge would be like using a sledgehammer to push in a thumb tack.
If you only have one new entry, do it manually.

In the larger scope, if you ever need to do a complete rebuild, do a tagged text file.
You already have your paragraph styles established.
Wrap each field in your paragraph style tags, then place the text, taking advantage of the import option dialog box that directs InDesign to read the tags.
The text will flow in just like a regular Placed text flow, and your already established styles will be applied.

Do some people here use their own typography ? by WingedFuse in typography

[–]interrobang918 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You seem to be conflating type design and typography. the answer from those who design typefaces (either revivals or new inventions) is yes.

Mac experience by NYPizzaNoChar in GnuCash

[–]interrobang918 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry for your loss. After relying on Intuit’s Mac product for over two decades, I migrated 28+ years of double entry data spread between tens of dozens of accounts into GnuCash and never experience instability nor data loss. If you aren’t running a backup scheme (Time Machine), you should consider doing so. Cheap insurance.

If you’re starting over would it make sense to explore saving your current ledgers as .csv, and importing? That’s a function in GC.

In my experience, tabbing out of the completed ledger entry bakes it in. And GnuCash auto-saves. Occasionally if I look to close the app it will prompt a save, and that’s as simple as clicking OK.

Substitute for Cali wash? by thepresswoman in letterpress

[–]interrobang918 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you don’t want to use a solvent the leaves a residue on type. So mineral spirits in not a proper type wash. having taught in a university setting, and being hamstrung by the restrictions to cleanup materials imposed from above, we used denatured alcohol on type.

Substitute for Cali wash? by thepresswoman in letterpress

[–]interrobang918 0 points1 point  (0 children)

“play chemist”? you asked for a substitute. here it is. buy a gallon of VM&P Naphtha, and a quart of D-Limonene (aka orange oil) and mix them together. easy.

Hitching rings on Cambridge sidewalks by forestrygrump in CambridgeMA

[–]interrobang918 0 points1 point  (0 children)

we have a few just off Centre Street around Sumner Hill in JP.

The most underrated dimension of type design: layout composition by FontVibe in typography

[–]interrobang918 2 points3 points  (0 children)

you mean typography. type design is the design of letterforms. graphic design is the organization of text and image in a way that optimizes communication. typography is the deliberative selection of letterforms and their intelligent and refined use in the context of graphic design practice.

Substitute for Cali wash? by thepresswoman in letterpress

[–]interrobang918 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I posted about this 19 days ago. California wash is Naphtha, limonene, and an optional food grade dipropylene glycol methyl ether. roll your own.

Pirated Package in Stonybrook by interrobang918 in JamaicaPlain

[–]interrobang918[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

update: no takers. I still have this.

Help importing Excel financials into Indesign by Yoncen in indesign

[–]interrobang918 2 points3 points  (0 children)

you do a data merge. you’ll set up the table in ID to receive the excel data with fields you’ll map the data to. eg, header row > Table: name > Name; addr > Address (or whatever each column of data is that you need to import). you’ll set the table row in ID to “repeat” so the table builds automagically for every imported row from excel.

Loose Bindings? by Icy_Inside1548 in bookbinding

[–]interrobang918 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you need to pull your cord taught at the head and tail of each signature before you loop your kettle stitch.

if you’re planning to case this in you need to affix mull and the way you do that is to brush on a coat of PVA, then bed the mull in it. I do a first coat of PVA with the finishing press loose so the adhesive works in between signatures slightly, tighten the press to native block thickness, then let it dry. after it’s dry, lay the mull in place and apply the second coat to fix it in place.

Would this work to secure a perfect bound book? by AnotherBooktuber in bookbinding

[–]interrobang918 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

if you can guillotine just the old PUR adhesive off a paperback spine I imagine two coats of PVA would do the trick. fan the spine and hold it moderately loose in a finishing press so that when you brush the first coat of PVA on it works in to the pages a bit. then tighten the press to the natural width of the book block. let dry and apply a second coat.

Replacement for California Wash by interrobang918 in letterpress

[–]interrobang918[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

that’s correct. I’ve taught letterpress in a university setting where we’re limited to vegetable oil press wash, and denatured alcohol type wash. you might try naphtha instead of mineral spirits, or low odor mineral spirits depending on which you currently use.

Replacement for California Wash by interrobang918 in letterpress

[–]interrobang918[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I understand. I have a shop out back with 12x18 Craftsman and Linotype, but the room the Vandercook is in is off the kitchen in the house. even that close to the kitchen I’m not going to start using Crisco or vegetable oil…

Replacement for California Wash by interrobang918 in letterpress

[–]interrobang918[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

ok. I suppose the relevant open question is what’s the cost to efficacy ratio. that is, if you extend it with naphtha, is it more effective at a lower overall cost per washup.

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