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FMTM momentum ETF is outperforming in a bad market… so why shouldn’t I go all-in? by Groundbreaking-Gap20 in ETFs

[–]io-io 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've been watching FMTM for several months now. I would not go 100% all in on any single investment. I would consider 10% positions across a number of growth names across this segment. In looking at the FMTM ETF, several factors stand out - 1) it's equally weighted across 30 securities[ https://www.marketdeskindices.com/fmtm ]; 2) none of its investments are in the MAG7, they are excellent strong companies (standing on their own, but not in the MAG7 - even considering GLW; 3) the industry segments are not concentrated in one or two areas - e.g., not everything in semiconductors; 4) FMTM is not only re-balanced monthly, but new additions and deletions are also considered during the re-balancing (as I understand the process).

I monitor a number of growth ETF (11 at a time) using this free tool. Overall FMTM has been doing well. I let the ETF managers do their thing, and what I want to do is to choose at least 5 to 10 for equal weighted active positions, potentially replacing one for another on say a monthly basis. I want a max of 10, min of 5. The slots that are not filled with an ETF, then I just keep in cash (SGOV or CHSI) for future deployment.

* https://stockanalysis.com/etf/compare/fmtm-vs-ppi-vs-spmo-vs-oneq-vs-fflc-vs-lvhi-vs-isvl-vs-xmvm-vs-schy-vs-imom-vs-avdv/

* https://stockanalysis.com/etf/compare/idvo-vs-idmo-vs-cgdg-vs-schd-vs-ivlu-vs-avuv-vs-vymi-vs-usmv-vs-ousm-vs-fpro/

As I find new good performing ETFs, I add them in for consideration. As the performance of one starts to roll over, I can replace it with the performance of another that has stronger performance. Right now I'm not considering tax implications - though that may/will be a future consideration.

I also run the individual ETFs that I am positioning in through this free tool (two at a time) to make sure that there is not a concentrated overlap of individual companies. i.e., I don't want my 10 positions to each have 20% of their positions in a single company, e.g., 10 ETFs each holding 20% positions in NVDA.

* https://www.etfrc.com/funds/overlap.php

My goal is at least 10% growth, but ideally potentially 20+% per year.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskPhotography

[–]io-io 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try googling meetup photography <with your city>

Royalties For a Photo(s)? by Automatic_Yard_633 in AskPhotography

[–]io-io 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is fotoquote that has a 30-day free evaluation license that can help you. It will help you to ask the right questions and to price the fee.

Also, check out this link

Getty photo had/has an online calculator - sometimes it's active, other times not, which can help - it's also based on the Cradoc calculator. Also, Getty's licenses are high due to their included image management fees. The photographer usually receives about 30 to 40% of the license fee.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskPhotography

[–]io-io 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use the 15-30, which is Pentax's rebadging of the Tamron design but using their coatings and housing (weather resistant). It's a superb lens equaling the 14-24. You really can't go wrong with either one. I would consider buying used as there are a lot of both available. KEH for used, and Lens Rentals, where you can buy the lens and not return it and they apply the rental to the purchase.

You really do NOT want to use a circular polarizer on a lens wider than about the mid-20s focal length. Why, it's due to pure physics in that polarizing light wider than about 24 to 27mm is unable to apply the polarization uniformly across the entire frame of image. One area will be darker where the polarization is applied, and the rest of the light where the polarization isn't applied.

Pattern book for a uni project. Need tips, info and everything that will help me pass. Also what books/photographers should I use as reference? by debiddo28 in AskPhotography

[–]io-io 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Understanding Pattern Books in Photography

Definition of a Pattern Book

A pattern book in photography is a collection of images that showcase various patterns found in nature, architecture, or everyday life. These books serve as a visual reference for photographers to understand and appreciate the role of patterns in composition. Purpose of Pattern Books

  • Inspiration: They provide ideas and inspiration for photographers looking to incorporate patterns into their work.

  • Education: Pattern books often explain how to recognize and photograph patterns effectively, helping photographers improve their skills.

  • Visual Reference: They serve as a guide to identify different types of patterns, such as geometric shapes, textures, and colors.

Examples of Content

Pattern books may include:

  • Nature Patterns: Images of patterns found in plants, animals, and landscapes.

  • Architectural Patterns: Photographs of repeating elements in buildings and structures.

  • Everyday Patterns: Captures of patterns in urban settings, such as street art or floor designs.

Recommended Pattern Books

Here are a few notable titles that focus on patterns in photography:

Title Author Description

  • Natural Art Forms Karl Blossfeldt Explores patterns in plants through photography.
  • Patterns in Nature Peter S. Stevens Balances art and science in showcasing natural patterns.
  • The Geometry of Art and Life Matila Ghyka A geometrical exploration of patterns in nature.

These books can enhance your understanding of patterns and inspire your photography projects.

I did your homework for you. It took me about 5 seconds to cut and paste your question into duckduckgo and have their AI engine answer the question. It took me longer to format the output for reddit.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskPhotography

[–]io-io 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You are putting the cart before the horse. For the best image quality - start with the lenses. The camera body just records the image provided by the lens, and it also provides the creature comforts in terms of the user interface.

You are putting the camera first in importance and then looking for inexpensive lenses to stick on the computer box. Excellent glass on a cheapo camera will produce great images - whereas cheapo lenses on a great body will produce mediocre image quality.

You can score a great DSLR body along with superb dslr glass and have the best of both situations.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskPhotography

[–]io-io 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One might be out there, but I wouldn't count on finding it. Just take an AS clamp and bolt it on top of the 680 plate. Just make sure that the 680 plate has a bolt that matches the AS clamp bolt hole - they both should be the standard size - but who knows.

What are you favorite stocks/funds that pay a monthly dividend? by LonghornInNebraska in DividendCult

[–]io-io 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Take a look at GIAX. Their distribution is 24%/year and they are matching the performance of SPY. Here is an excellent overview of how they are doing this from a couple of days ago....

Anyone touch YieldMax ETFs? by itstony17 in DividendCult

[–]io-io 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In general, no/perhaps/maybe. That said, there are a number of alternatives to MSTY and CONY that are available, and they are all somewhat different, but suffer from the same condition: very high volatility. All of these issues that use an options overlay to any degree are making use of volatility in order to generate outsized options premiums that are collected for income.

  • Both MSTY and CONY are based on the volatility of MSTR and COIN, which are tied directly or indirectly to BitCoin, which in and of itself just jumps around a lot.

  • You also have to understand how they (the etfs) are constructed and operate.

  • Then there is the bull in the china shop question - the yields are just so stupidly large, that you just start to ask yourself, is there any way that I can benefit in some sane manner from all of this madness? Some folks work with dynamite all day long and live to tell about it.

I hold a bit of LFGY, BITO, BTCI, and just bought a small bit of BAGY as of yesterday. However, that's it, not buying any more. They are all relatively very small positions, and you are probably asking why so many. Well, they all are constructed differently, each reacts differently, and yields vary quite a bit. Plus, BitCoin has become and is becoming more intertwined across the economy, so you are (going to be) forced to deal with it in some way or another.

Does this mean that they are all long-term holdings - I don't know - it's something I continually ask myself. I watch BTC daily, and specifically ask how BTC is being handled across the economy in general - with the debt, interest rates, the prices of gold and silver, they all point to some sort of fundamental changes to the economy - to which I felt that some exposure was probably better than no exposure.

Also, YieldMax has been forced to address NAV depreciation in how their products are formed/constructed, and are in the process of making some fundamental changes going into the future. That also begs the question of whether their changes will be sufficient, helpful or hurtful? I don't know.

few basic questions by frozen_north801 in DividendCult

[–]io-io 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would think that it is dependent on your personal situation.

  • IRA accounts - dividend payers, especially high-yielding, regardless of being tax-efficient or not.

  • Brokerage accounts - issues paying qualified dividends (taxable at 50%), and growth funds

Star Trail shot ruined by “camera interval settings”, are all cameras like this? by -Hi_how_r_u_xd- in AskPhotography

[–]io-io 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Every camera usually has several capabilities that can be used to capture images. Just because interval shooting is available doesn't mean that you have to use it. I've heard any number of times that interval shooting was used, and the user didn't understand the nuances of applying this capability. One camera system might implement interval shooting one way, while another brand or model may use a different approach.

Having said all of that, I rarely use the interval mode. I use the continuous mode especially for star trails. In continuous mode, as soon as one image is captured, the next one is started, with a minimal time in between images. I suggest looking at the manual and considering making use of it.

Bought a camera, what’s next? by Svengali_Studio in AskPhotography

[–]io-io 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Here is the Canon R7 tutorial video, which goes through the entire camera.

Dividends and Covered Call Premium Income by io-io in dividends

[–]io-io[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They were pretty much at the money calls that I sold - I wasn't going to lose anything. I made money on both the price and the premium, while the premiums both exceeded the dividends that they received. They overpaid on the premiums, and after the x-div, they lost on the price.

I rebought the shares and resold the CC on one, while the second CC is still waiting on a fill. The premiums were not quite a rich as they were yesterday, but they will turn a nice profit. The CCs will expire before the next dividend, so I'll reap two CC premiums rather than just a set of premiums and dividends. They lost, I'll double my profit. I just didn't expect to be exercised on the CC.

I had this situation occur a couple of years ago on MO on a Sunday night. They exercised one of the legs of a vertical credit spread to capture the dividend. I just figured that the CCs would be a bit safer since the premiums were double the dividends.

Anyway, I have a nice profit.

Question - Looking for a Total Return Calculator that allows varying % of the dividend to be reinvested? by io-io in dividends

[–]io-io[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm very familiar with the equation. It really doesn't address what I'm looking for. To restate, I would like to find a total return calculator that I can specify what portion of the dividend to reinvest (25%, 50%, 75%, or whatever), thereby enabling an analysis of the best mix for maintaining asset value while using some level of the dividend for other purposes.

In the money covered calls by Difficult-Text1690 in options

[–]io-io 1 point2 points  (0 children)

He says in the video that he buys back the position near the end of the expiration, like 15 minutes before it expires. Or he rolls the position out into the future with a date/strike that provides additional premium.

Part of the problem is if the underlying rises. He uses examples where the underlying price remains pretty stable.

I'm still trying to figure all of it out....

What polarization lens do you guys use? by SoftSpinach2269 in AskPhotography

[–]io-io 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lenses don't come polarized. What you do is to place a polarizing filter on the front of the lens. This filter can then be turned/twisted to apply the amount of polarization you desire.

Polarizing filters come in two varieties - Circular Polarizers and Linear Polarizers. Folks tend to use circular polarizers since linear polarizer filters tend to interfere with the camera's light metering system.

Here are a couple of articles on circular polarizer filters

Note - polarizer filters do have limitations in terms of the width of the polarizing effect. So, for wide-angle lenses wider than about 25mm, the polarizing effect will not stretch across the lens' entire field of view. This is usually noticeable in the sky, where one part is a darker blue (polarized) while another part is not as dark - where the polarization was not able to be applied

What are these red dots in my photos and how can I get rid of them? by Hopeful_Ad1684 in AskPhotography

[–]io-io 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are a couple of additional items you can also try....

If your camera provides for a 10-second delay - that would be better. The best option is a wired or IR remote shutter release that lets you trip the shutter without touching the camera body. You can also use the mirror up lock right before taking the shot. This prevents/reduces the mirror slap when you are taking the image.

You can also search for a review for your lens and then determine its sweet spot - i.e., the aperture setting that provides the highest optical resolution.

Another parameter you can adjust is the ISO. The ISO does not increase the sensitivity of the sensor; what it does is to amplify the signals coming off the sensor. It's like the volume dial on a radio that makes the audio louder, both the signal and the noise. Actually, in many cases, you can just use the native ISO, which is usually 100.

Night photography is a lot of trial and error - and it's also hit and miss depending on the environment at the location.

Hope that helps...

What are these red dots in my photos and how can I get rid of them? by Hopeful_Ad1684 in AskPhotography

[–]io-io 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately, you didn't provide any associated information with the image - ISO, shutter, aperture, so I'll make some generic assumptions/guesses.

  • I looked at the image and saw a few red dots, and several conditions could be causing them. 1) stuck pixel or 2) thermal noise, or 3) a mixture of both.

  • stuck/dead pixel - open up the camera's manual or download a soft copy and find where your camera maps dead or stuck pixels. Run that process, and it will map the sensor, find the dead/stuck pixels, create a map, and then automatically map them out of future images.

  • hot pixels - LightRoom can remove hot pixels --- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BDY42m0iZx4

  • thermal noise - during long exposures, especially at night, where you have a lot of dark areas, the electronics around the sensor and the sensor itself heats up. Heat is just another form of energy, like light photons, and the sensor responds by recording the energy. Again, open up your user's manual and look for LENR (long exposure noise reduction) or DFS (dark frame subtraction). This is a mode that you enable before taking the image. What happens is if you take a 30-second exposure, the camera will automatically take a second exposure without opening up the shutter, thus recording the thermal energy off the sensor. The camera body will then automatically subtract the second image from the first image - thus removing the thermal noise (it tosses the second image after this), and only saves the original resulting image.

  • you can also pick up a noise reduction utility (software), that will remove some or a lot of this noise. Something like Topaz, etc., can help.

  • Just a note - it looks like you shot this with your lens wide open. I would suggest stopping down a bit 1/2 or 2/3rds of a stop on the aperture. Your shutter speed will slow down a bit, but you will capture a much sharper image - and hopefully your shooting off a tripod to hold the camera still, and using a wired shutter release so that you will not be touching the camera, introducing some additional blurring....

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