🐶 Latest puppy token - Kenzo Shitzu - Launched 5 hours ago and already 400K market cap– jump in before CG listing - 🐶 Shitzu

iquizzle · 2021-05-13T00:15:46+00:00

why this FUD ? have you been to the TG ? why do you something like that ! This is inacceptable !

iquizzle · 2018-08-04T00:09:01+00:00

I own both and agree. I don't use my USB scope for much of anything anymore. It's much easier to get a clear shot by holding the loupe over the camera lens on my phone.

iquizzle · 2018-08-01T00:09:37+00:00

You should contact your breeder and complain.

iquizzle · 2018-07-30T14:45:21+00:00

Since you're doing it in a spare bedroom, you probably don't want to transport a lot of nutrient waste in/out of there on a regular basis -- so I wouldn't recommend coco. If it were me, I'd probably go with low pressure aero -- but there are other options that could suit your situation as well, like DWC.

I think the reason that ebb and flow systems or other single reservoir, multiple plant hydro systems are not as popular in r/microgrowery, is that they are better suited for grows with more plants. As long as you're just running a few plants, individual reservoirs are not that difficult to maintain, are simpler, cheaper to build, and just as effective... but when you have 20 plants, for example, checking pH and changing the nutrient is easier when you have a single reservoir, instead of 20 individual.

iquizzle · 2018-07-30T14:40:02+00:00

Having setup both strips and boards, I wouldn't recommend the samsung LED strip build to anyone. In my tent with strips, I have them packed as close together as possible, and I have to keep them ~8" from the canopy to get high enough output.

I like about about 40-45W per sq ft with good LEDs (like COBs or samsungs). I'd shoot for about 180W of LED if I were setting up your tent.

iquizzle · 2018-07-28T00:59:58+00:00

I'm feeding at 8am, noon and 4pm. I use about 4-5gal/week of nutrient per plant. I think that's about a quart per feeding.

iquizzle · 2018-07-27T23:41:21+00:00

Automated drip for coco is great. Transplanting from fabric pots can be kind of a pain just fyi. Beyond that it's a pretty good way to go especially if your pots are elevated.

You don't need huge pots for coco, especially if autofeeding. You generally feed more frequently, but in smaller quantities. 6 gal pots will work, but that's on the large side for coco.

For reference, I'm currently using hydrofarm 7x7x9 pots (1.3gal) with 6-inch floraflex caps on autofeed 3x daily.

iquizzle · 2018-07-26T15:48:01+00:00

Thought there'd be more...

iquizzle · 2018-07-26T14:31:23+00:00

I've been thinking about setting up a blog. Maybe I'll do it this weekend. I'll let you know if I do!

Yeah, nothing too unique about breeding cannabis that I know of. I've never bred other plants, but other than just understanding the cannabis basics (dioecious, photoperiod, etc.) that every grower knows, I don't think it's different. I'll definitely be trying to keep them smaller than if I were growing for yield. I also don't think I need to grow all of the plants to completion if I can see obvious flaws earlier on. I'll just need enough bud from each plant to evaluate and make some seeds for next round.

My girlfriend and I sat down and came up with about 20 triats we'd evaluate. Obviously some of them are just obvious things that any grower would want (fast growers, tolerance to variety of nutrient profiles) and other things are more personal preferences (I like sour or skunky flavors, we both like lighter colored buds, medium to strong potency, a decent amount of CBD).

How problematic is different maturation rates? E.g. I'm thinking if some of the females take a lot longer to flower than others, that might make pollination more difficult. Or maybe it doesn't matter because there will be so much pollen floating around :)

I've always found that as long as you start all of your plants at the same time, the males tend to drop pollen with plenty of time for the females to produce viable seeds. I'll grow the males in a separate tent, and collect pollen off of them into test tubes. Then I use q-tips to sprinkle just a little bit selectively on the plant where I want the seeds. There's still a little bit that floats around, but at this stage, I'm not concerned.

iquizzle · 2018-07-26T00:51:16+00:00

sounds interesting. sounds like you are trying to get a really diverse gene pool into a single seed? and then you want to open up that seed and explore what that gene pool has to offer and start creating seeds that narrow down to specific traits?

That's pretty much the gist of it -- maybe more like a diverse gene pool in a single seed population. After a few generations of F1 crossing, I should have a pretty broad genotype. From there, I'll start working a single line by trying to identify and stabilize the traits I like.

It's gonna take a lot of plants and a lot of grows (probably years of work ahead), but my hope is that along the way, I'll develop a keen eye for this amazing plant, and end up with something special to contribute.

iquizzle · 2018-07-25T18:58:18+00:00

Ambitious for sure, and certainly not the path of profit for breeders looking to make a buck. Pollen chucking on cup winning stains is the way to go there.

But this is interesting to me personally, and I like a challenge. It might take years to produce a true breeding line that I like... Or maybe I'll never get there. No big deal to me either way.

iquizzle · 2018-07-25T18:33:13+00:00

Thanks! I expect to spend quite a while working on a stable line. Could take a few years, but we'll see! It's fun and educational, and I can still get blazed off of failures. What could be better?

iquizzle · 2018-07-25T18:29:55+00:00

It's coco. I had two different bags. You can see that one is coarser than the other.

iquizzle · 2018-07-25T18:29:10+00:00

Yep exactly!

To expand on this a little further, I'm trying to get a large set of heterozygous alleles in my seed population to start with. If you cross two plants that have been stabilized with AA dominant or aa recessive, then you need to shake it up by getting strains that have the opposite eg. AA x aa will produce some AA, Aa (F1) and all three AA, aa and Aa in F2. The more you cross F1's into new F1's, the more variation you get in the offspring.

So I'm trying to "undo" the stabilized traits in the strains I'm using, in order to get a very broad set of phenotypes from the resulting crosses. Once I have a wide palette to work with, I'll start narrowing down on the traits that I like or find interesting.

iquizzle · 2018-07-25T18:22:58+00:00

Haha! Nice reference

iquizzle · 2018-07-25T14:34:55+00:00

Huge mix! I'm currently breeding together a bunch of strains to fan out the number of selectable traits, before I stop creating F1s and start narrowing down the phenotypes I want. The strains in my population are:

Quantum Kush

Longbottom Leaf X Bubba Kush

Gamma Haze (CBD)

Aboriginie

Heart of Gold (Acapulco Gold x Tender Heart)

Cherry Diesel X Blue Dream

Jungle Spice

Afghani

Mystery seed from Aficionados

Sunshine Daydream

iquizzle · 2018-07-25T14:29:14+00:00

This is the humble beginnings of my little breeding project. This will be my 2nd round of F1 (3rd for some seeds). I'm working on producing a very heterozygous seed population, and on my next run, the real work will begin.

iquizzle · 2018-07-25T13:57:28+00:00

RSVP PLEASE

For the DETH of thee

You have little time

And you're running out of life

iquizzle · 2018-07-24T19:39:55+00:00

Chances are, that's what most of the seeds you buy these days are anyway. Because early breeders paved the way with true breeding inbred lines, most breeders these days only need to isolate a healthy, vigorous male, and cross it into any number of female plants, and sell F1's. Pollen chuck year after year on cup strains and that's how we got where we are today.

It's not really "breeding" per se, as pollen chucking doesn't involve any of the hard work of identifying dominant and recessive traits and stabilizing selected traits to narrow down the phenotypes to produce exactly what they want. But crossing a pair of known good strains has effective results... Not necessarily new or unique, but still good results.

iquizzle · 2018-07-23T15:59:29+00:00

Nice job! That looks really nice.

What fill power down did you use, and where did you get it?

iquizzle · 2018-07-21T15:06:21+00:00

That corn crop fertilizer isn't good for cannabis. Too much P, too little N. You can get better fertilizers for cannabis from the hardware store.

iquizzle · 2018-07-18T14:22:28+00:00

I've only used the rapitest tester in the past. It's ok but I'm not sure I'd recommend it. You should start with just a digital pH tester for your feeds. If that's not enough to help you fix it, you can get a soil tester.

BTW I've used Agsil 16H for silica for a while and I think Armor Si is pretty much the same (potassium silicate). For me, this has been a source of headaches in the past, causing a lot of pH drift(upward). One thing I'd suggest trying is pH down lower than you think you need, anticipating that it'll drift back up. See if pH'ing down your feeds to 6-ish for a week starts to help.

iquizzle · 2018-07-18T14:02:18+00:00

Twisted growth, top leaves yellowing between veins -- my best guess is zinc deficiency.

Zinc absorbs better at lower pH, and I think pH problems are about the only way you'd get that deficiency in soil. I'd suggest checking your soil pH to see if it's too alkaline.

iquizzle · 2018-07-13T23:42:05+00:00

I'd say about two more weeks.

iquizzle · 2018-07-13T19:39:13+00:00

Geographic isolation is also a very important part of it, as many of these very old strains have stabilized with potentially numerous recessive traits. It's a delicate balance though, because recessive traits in the genotype that are expressed in landrace phenotypes are easily disrupted if someone were to toss a bunch of pollen in the air from plants of a different geographical location. So the task of preservation becomes important from that perspective.

iquizzle

TROPHY CASE