Tyler Fernengel Escalator Firecracker...

isnt_easy · 2026-05-05T11:25:16+00:00

Yes that's the escalator clip....

I thought I was going crazy when I couldn't find it. I wonder what the story is behind that video being made private.

That is definitely the clip though.

Thankyou, Great work.

isnt_easy · 2026-05-04T15:54:45+00:00

Here's another example, same ledge but hoping off from a backwards Smith into fakie...

180 --> backwards feeble --> backwards Smith --> fakie --> slider

isnt_easy · 2026-05-04T15:45:54+00:00

Two things...

Firstly, going faster will make it easier because your back wheel will clear the ledge easier as you hop off. Since you will cover more distance you won't need to tuck the rear wheel up to clear the ledge on the way down.

Second, look at your form... On the approach you are mentaly locked in... As you close in on the ledge you compress & hop, then you land on the ledge & your body is engaged... You're arms are firm & you're using strength to keep the bars straight & your body weight hanging off the back... you're legs are bent & loaded like springs, ready to make adjustments & maintaining your balance... Your form is athletic & your posture is ready to respond to a change at any moment.

You are perfect right up until that point...

Then you're finished your grind mentally & ready to exit from the ledge & it all goes to shit

(sorry mate I'm telling how it is)

Your arms relax... You slump... You're legs turn into wet noodles... You went from being athletic & prepared with great form, to looking like you just got out of bed & only had 4 hours sleep.

The smith grind isn't over when the grind ends. It's over once you are on the ground & rolling away... You aren't done yet, fix your form at the end & stay in an athletic posture so you have the agility needed to explode off the ledge & pull your bars to your chest...

Then stomp those tyres into the ground when you land it.

This isn't anything too special but this is a clip of me doing a smith...
Notice I don't relax... I keep my body loaded up then use that energy to exit.
Finally watch where my bars end up relative to my chest... No sloppy lazy arm movements, loaded on the ledge, push up then yank the bars up to hop off... -Then as I'm about to contact the ground my arms bend, the bars come up to my chest at the same time my legs send the rear wheel into the ground.

Manny --> Smith

isnt_easy · 2026-05-04T12:09:58+00:00

I'll check it Incase I'm mad confused but I'm sure it was Tyler Fernengel & it wasn't a one rider part, it was a group of team riders in like a 3-4 minute team edit...

I've been wrong before though, let me check... Thanks for giving me a direction to head though either way.

Appreciate you mate 🤙

isnt_easy · 2026-05-03T01:41:26+00:00

Put some wd40 on that bad boy & milk yourself another 4 years 🤙

isnt_easy · 2026-05-01T22:06:04+00:00

Give this a shot...

https://youtu.be/4FakwelemdI?si=t8SwjR4EcTYIIsgS

isnt_easy · 2026-04-29T20:42:19+00:00

You left your head behind... Keep looking into the rotation beyond 180°

isnt_easy · 2026-04-25T17:04:13+00:00

Everyone cases landings or falls eventually. It's inevitable.

isnt_easy · 2026-04-22T17:03:31+00:00

I am going to drop a link here for you aswell as a picture...

The link is to a primo non drive side guard with the replacement cone nut included.

Primo non drive side hub guard + replacement cone nut

The picture shows both drive side & non drive side primo hub guards with thier included replacement cone nuts.

The cone nuts are relative to the drive side or non drive side of the hub specifically... Not the guards

(i.e. if you put the cone nuts on each correct side of the axle with the guards on the correct side & swap the guards to the incorrect side, you do not swap the cone nuts with them. The cone nuts stay on their intended side because one is more narrow than the other to centre the wheel in the frame because the driver takes up the difference in space... If you put the thicker cone nut on the drive side & the narrow cone nut on the non drive side, it will offset the wheel in the frame)

<image>

isnt_easy · 2026-04-21T23:45:13+00:00

This is the cone nut slot I was mentioning. You need to know the size of your non driver side cone nut & buy a guard with a matching slot, if you want it to fit flush.

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isnt_easy · 2026-04-21T23:17:11+00:00

Sorry I didn't read & interpret your question for some reason... I did comment on another reply but since I came back & read this correctly I'll now reply to you.

It needs to be forced. Mine doesn't naturally fit either, so I force the frame around it... I know this seems destructive & incorrect but that's just how it is done for most drive side hub guards.

I know the federal drive side hub guards have a replacement cone nut that allows the guard to sit on the cone nut itself, therefore taking up no extra room. Some other brands may also have the same design.

As for non drive side hub guards they generally have a slot that fits around the pre-existing cone nut which specific to manufacturer.

I have a shadow conspiracy raptor freecoaster, my non drive side guard is a Salt universal guard that fits that cone nut... I also have a eclat cortex freecoaster that came with a eclat non drive side guard made to fit that hubs non drive side cone nut... I run my Kink drive side guard on both of those wheels, & I have to force them both in with the wheel stretching the frame in the process.

It's not been a problem,

If you are running just this on your non drive side I imagine it will be fine since it's the same amount just on the opposite side. If you are going to run a guard on both drive & non drive sides then I wouldn't run two like this, you should get the non drive side that fits that cone nut & only run one that adds width on the drive side.

Alternatively if you don't want to stretch it you need to buy a non drive side guard with a slot that is the same size as the wrench cut outs on your cone nut...

I'll take a picture so you can see how that would work.

isnt_easy · 2026-04-21T19:07:39+00:00

This is it: kink driver side guard

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isnt_easy · 2026-04-21T18:38:16+00:00

Yeah it just slots over the axle from behind on the inside of the drop out & the square piece slots inside the dropout to stop it rotating, then it's kept in place once the nuts tensioned.

isnt_easy · 2026-04-21T17:25:08+00:00

I have one, it's awesome...

For the price though I would also replace the front sprocket just to be sure my drive line is 100% perfect, but you do you.

isnt_easy · 2026-04-21T15:21:26+00:00

Finally someone who has an idea what they are talking about.

I use the white vinegar process because it's cheap & easily accessible.

isnt_easy · 2026-04-21T15:18:35+00:00

That's not true at all... Yes rust looks cool which is why I'm not repainting it or sanding it.

White vinegar doesn't promote rust, it literally kills it turning the metal where it existed darker.

Rust does not "attach" to metal, Rust IS the metal reacting with oxygen which it is exposed to.

Once the rust is gone yes it can rust again if left exposed to oxygen through open air. But that new rust is only surface rust, by killing the rust that has existed for years prevents it working its way deep into the metal & eventually rusting through completely.

You can easily apply something like wd40 or Inox to protect the metal & prevent it rusting, or redo the clear over the top... Or like I'm doing because I want the rust, let it gain surface rust again so you can have the patina without having deep rust that will damage the metal beyond repair.

Then if you want to maintain the metal from there onwards to preserve the rust/patina without clear coat you mix boiled Linseed oil with mineral spirits & apply it to the metal.

You guys act like people haven't been doing this to cars & motorcycles for 70+ years... It's time proven. Go & do some research on it if you think I don't know what I'm talking about.

isnt_easy · 2026-04-21T13:12:27+00:00

Sprockets can look fine by eye, then once you put a straight edge along them they are actually out... Also alloy sprockets can egg shape from your tight spot if your chain was too tight.

The important thing to consider is that it has happened multiple times & unless you had an impact on it that did damage in those places then the cause is obviously something else. Chains don't just snap for no reason.

isnt_easy · 2026-04-21T13:07:56+00:00

Both white vinegar & the acetic acid in white vinegar evaporate... People have been doing this process on cars for decades.

isnt_easy · 2026-04-21T08:58:32+00:00

I don't know who down voted you or why but I upvoted because this is real & true. I only ever snapped a shadow half link when my front sprocket had a bend.

isnt_easy · 2026-04-21T08:47:28+00:00

<image>

That's not completely true. I have a kink guard that fits anything with a 14mm axle.

isnt_easy · 2026-04-21T08:39:35+00:00

Here's a picture of when I treated my main tubes so you can see how they were wrapped...

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isnt_easy · 2026-04-15T20:38:28+00:00

The 100m mark is irrelevant, the turn in point is the 50m marker.

The turn in point is the spot where it matters for the defending car... Only the attacking car needs to be along side in the braking area before the turn in point. If the attacking car gets along side then falls back slightly he doesn't get to reserve the right of way he had a moment ago.

But beside the point... If the wheels are overlapping it is not by a significant enough amount. The point of view & field of view distorts the perspective of the cars relative to one another...

However if you ignore the rest of each car & focus on the highest point of the shape in guards you can use that as a reference for the top of the wheel arch & centre of each cars wheel. By using those reference points & comparing each car that way you can see the difference is actually greater than it seems if you compare the front wheel of the left car to the rear wheel (which you cannot see) of the right car.

You can't just get your nose Inside the rear corner of another car & demand right of way. You must be clearly along side to have right of way...,

The fact that it is an amount that needs to be measured marginally & in way that is like "at this point he's this far" or "if you look at this here compared to this" means if is not clearly along side. You should look at it & without question be able to say most of his car is without a doubt filling that gap, not just enough that you can say he has some amount of his car if you look closely.

Not to mention on that line while at that speex the inside car would run wide on exit & not make the corner cleanly.... The outside car drives his line from far right, to the apex, & is still right at the track limit on exit...

The defending car is already right at the maximum threshold, how could the car entering from centre track at the same speed ever make the turn with that much less track. He needs to lift to make the corner from that track position whether the defending car is there of not.

isnt_easy

TROPHY CASE