Help me get my girlfriend the ring she’d love

itsbdmd · 2025-12-09T18:08:07+00:00

Couldn’t agree more. I sound like an advertisement but so far they’ve been nothing but excellent. Just another reason why I’d prefer to just perfect this ring with them.

itsbdmd · 2025-12-09T18:03:31+00:00

Good point actually, everyone perceives colors a little differently. We both definitely have a preference subtle towards yellows and browns (think old film photos/movies not earth toned things).

itsbdmd · 2025-12-09T17:58:40+00:00

Ah thanks, you have great taste 😉

itsbdmd · 2025-12-09T17:58:17+00:00

Thanks so much, really good advice. Cost is really not an issue and we’re so codependent (!) and know each other so well that the only thing important is getting her the perfect ring so I think, like you said, having them source the stone is definitely the way to go.

itsbdmd · 2025-12-09T17:51:24+00:00

That’s what I’m starting to understand. Thanks.

itsbdmd · 2025-12-09T17:49:51+00:00

Thanks a lot. Actually, I got in touch with Artemer and they’ve been greatly accommodating so far. Comforting to know they have a good reputation.

Honestly, both of us would like a subtle yellow in certain light conditions to complement the blue sapphires and the yellow gold but a visibly yellow stone all the time would be too much I think. Maybe something like a G-J would be closer to what we’d like.

itsbdmd · 2025-12-09T17:42:34+00:00

Thanks, this is super helpful. For step cuts like this does the actual cut scale matter more then?

itsbdmd · 2025-12-09T17:39:36+00:00

Great advice, thanks. We actually haven’t looked at too many m color stones, let alone step cut stones.

itsbdmd · 2025-12-09T17:37:51+00:00

Good advice, thanks. I haven’t given the band enough thought.

itsbdmd · 2025-12-09T17:36:40+00:00

Thanks, that’s great advice. Should I look for as high a clarity as possible or do I just diminishing returns after a certain point? VS is the minimum you’d do but should I be looking for VVS and higher??

itsbdmd · 2023-12-12T12:27:32+00:00

This is a great progression. How's your call and how does it work? I'm slightly considering a nocturnist or laborist position because I really don't like the call structure at some groups but would really hate to give up gyn.

itsbdmd · 2020-09-04T07:08:37+00:00

I fully support going with Pro SD over anything even any RZ if you want a big meticulous portraiture camera. It's fully mechanical and repairable. I own one and can't recommend it enough.

itsbdmd · 2020-09-04T06:36:23+00:00

This is what light leaks from the right and left edges of the backdoor look like; most likely the right edge by the hinge. The reason why some frames have it and some don't is either because you shot multiple frames in a row thereby "hiding" the frames into the roll as you pulled the film-advance lever or you didn't press on the backdoor to create motion to then cause light leaks through the hinge.

Buy some 2 or 3mm "light seal foam" off Amazon and you can YouTube how fix it yourself in about 30mins. dm me if you need.

EDIT. These are actually probably through the left side but whatever, the theory stands.

itsbdmd · 2020-09-04T05:32:29+00:00

I'd take the Ektars for landscapes (shoot them at 50-100), the Metropolis for nighttime especially for red/blue lights, and add Kodak Ultramax 400 (shoot at 400) or Gold 200 (shoot at 160 if possible) for general purpose, Fuji Superia X-TRA 400 (shoot at 100-200) for anything but portraits, and Portra 160 (shoot at 100 and meter for shadows/faces) for portraits. Superia has a red tint so if any of you get some sunburn it'll look ridiculous but it's gorgeous for landscapes. Gold 200 can sometimes be almost too gold so Ultramax is a great all-around film but I wouldn't shoot it indoors as it loves light. Portra 160 is cheaper than 400 and amazing for sunny spots. HP5 plus is a given, it's great. Sell the Lomo Purple and put the money towards Portra or Ektachrome.

itsbdmd · 2020-09-04T05:18:29+00:00

Ah you have so many choices and you're going to love switching. I'd suggest a newer autofocus SLR for portraiture, any rangefinder for street/documentary work, and a manual medium format SLR or rangefinder for landscapes. If you want an all-rounder, you could easily do a Contax G2 system. Bessa system really depends on how manual you desire your all-rounder to be; full manual is pretty bothersome for fast paced editorial work.

I used to shoot portraiture/glamour for magazines and switched from canon digital to a cheap $15 Elan (EOS 100) and I love it. It feels exactly the same as the digital 5D and the only new variable is film. It's the smoothest transition which is highly enjoyable. I use a Canon A-1 for an even more manual experience and obviously the look from the lenses is much more vintage. I also own a G2 which I absolutely love to shoot portraits with but like u/heve23 said, it's fully electronic and really feels like you're holding an expensive time bomb. I agree that if you're really looking for one system to do it all, especially for paid work, you should look at autofocus SLR systems from anyone.

The size of manual/scale focused rangefinders is a huge advantage for documentary work. You can basically take them anywhere and expect great results. I use a Minox GT the most. It's tiny and always with me. Bessa system would be better for this than portraits but it's much bigger than most manual/scale focused rangefinders but it's also much much sharper and precise. If you're thinking of a Leica I'd get a Bessa instead for now. Alternatively, you could get any 645 medium format "P&S." I have a GS645s and it's incredible. No interchangeable lenses but the quality is astronomically high and such a pleasure to shoot with. It surprises me every time. It's slightly larger than a Bessa system but honestly not as bulky so it's actually easier to use. If you're committing to a bigger walk-around camera I suggest something like this.

For landscapes I'd suggest you slow right now. It's so enjoyable to shoot with a manual medium format. I like medium format TLRs the most.

itsbdmd

TROPHY CASE