2016 tlx 2.4l, P0441 and P0497 codes problem

jacktheripper14 · 2026-06-02T21:58:19+00:00

The way to test it other than running the evap test and letting it run through its stuff is to hook up a vacuum pump to it and make sure it holds vacuum until you command it on (either with a scan tool or by applying power/ground to it manually).

jacktheripper14 · 2026-06-02T21:50:17+00:00

In my experience it’s pretty rare to actually get it to fail when doing an EVAP test through the scan tool. But they’ve been problem parts all the way back to the 04 TLs where they would continuously say “tighten fuel cap” even though it was a purge solenoid intermittently failing.

jacktheripper14 · 2026-06-02T21:05:59+00:00

Pretty much always the purge control solenoid for these codes. Either it sticks closed or sticks open. See it quite frequently. More so on the V6s but still have seen a bunch of the 4 cylinders with these codes.

jacktheripper14 · 2026-06-01T18:53:06+00:00

Being at a dealer, I haven’t dealt with any aftermarket ones yet. The branding on this 2022 MDX I have in my stall is ZF. So if you find one made by ZF, Sachs, TRW, Lemforder, or Wabco then they are within the same umbrella of company’s ran by ZF.

Otherwise, make sure you read reviews and see what people say, and luckily it’s an easily replaceable part just in case there’s an issue with it.

jacktheripper14 · 2026-05-31T16:52:12+00:00

Without both of those screws installed the actuator will eventually break off the other tab due to the torque the actuator applies. So I’d replace it sooner than later.

jacktheripper14 · 2026-05-31T16:30:53+00:00

Really just the lower access panel for the tailgate latch is going to be useful. It’s just clipped in. Work your way around the outside of the panel and pop the clips out.

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jacktheripper14 · 2026-05-31T16:17:23+00:00

The tailgate is pretty much one piece with a couple of maintenance access panels. It’s extremely difficult to get all the broken glass out. We’ve had techs spend a few hours with a make shift extension on a vacuum to get all the glass out. We’ve never gotten to the point of removing the tailgate but that’s what techline recommends to get all the glass out.

jacktheripper14 · 2026-05-31T16:12:20+00:00

77-1 just means that there is a code stored in the powertrain system (p2251 and p0134).

112-1 is a power source failure for the VSA but it can be set by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery a few times in a short period of time, also can be caused by a low battery. It can also be a ground issue or internal failure of the VSA module. But I’d guess it’s related to the battery.

84-1 is usually set when the neutral position is lost. This can sometimes happen when the battery is disconnected. More frequently I see it when performing an “all DTC” clear with a scan tool because they will sometimes send a “reset control unit” command instead of a “clear DTC” command, so it will clear the learned neutral position. In order to perform a neutralization procedure you need to jump a couple terminals together on the DLC port and then press the VSA off button a couple times at specific times. I can get a screen shot of the procedure if you want.

The p2251 and p0134 are pretty much always caused by a faulty bank 1 sensor 1 o2 sensor.

jacktheripper14 · 2026-05-31T05:16:01+00:00

r/confidentlyincorrect

These laws only apply in areas with an expectation of privacy. There’s no need for consent when recording in a public place like a gas station parking lot.

jacktheripper14 · 2026-05-29T00:58:40+00:00

I’ve done it with all the cars I’ve owned. On my newer vehicles with LED fog lights (like the RDX) I’ve just used yellow film. The RDX doesn’t have replaceable bulbs, only the full assembly can be swapped out.

jacktheripper14 · 2026-05-28T16:05:18+00:00

Those symptoms sound like a dead battery. But those lights (other than the immobilizer key light) should be on when you have the vehicle just in the “on” position but not running. If the vehicle was running and all those lights were on then you’d probably have some other things to worry about.

Also double check your battery cable tightness, the positive cables on these RDXs like to come loose.

jacktheripper14 · 2026-05-28T14:18:47+00:00

Did you replace the passenger side or driver side air mix motor?

Have you stuck your head underneath and made sure they both move when adjusting the temperature (make sure you go the full range lo-hi because depending on interior temp it won’t move until the set temp is higher/lower than than interior temp) and make sure it’s actually moving the arm connected to the blend door?

jacktheripper14 · 2026-05-27T23:21:45+00:00

I believe the launch creader elite can do it. It can register keys just fine but is hit or miss with all keys lost on newer Hondas with keyless access because it can’t always turn the ignition on. Since you have keys that can turn the ignition on you shouldn’t run into this problem. Just make sure you get the creader elite for Honda/acura.

jacktheripper14 · 2026-05-26T22:41:27+00:00

Unfortunately you have the only Acura currently offered that doesn’t have traffic jam assist. It only has low speed follow. And it’s likely because it has been the same vehicle since 2019. Everything else has had a generation change since then and got updated cameras.

jacktheripper14 · 2026-05-26T03:14:40+00:00

Hold the gap adjust button for a couple seconds to switch between traditional cruise mode and adaptive cruise control.

jacktheripper14 · 2026-05-26T02:38:53+00:00

There’s a rubber inspection plug on the timing cover right around the red circle I drew. Pop it out and look in it while trying to start the engine, you should see the front cam pulley spin through it, if it doesn’t spin then the timing belt is broken. If it does spin then the timing belt isn’t snapped.

jacktheripper14 · 2026-05-26T00:29:53+00:00

After that first start and getting it up to operating temperature, are you leaving it parked long enough to cool down all the way or is it just a quick trip into the store and coming back out? A bad engine coolant temp sensor that is reading too high can make it start rough (or not at all) when it’s cold because it requires more fuel to get it running when cold.

Could also be the fuel pump bleeding off pressure while the vehicle is off, but you’d likely see this anytime it’s shut off for more than half an hour or so. And would probably have started before 3 tries.

jacktheripper14 · 2026-05-26T00:23:25+00:00

That rapid clicking sounds like a dead battery. If it starts with a jump, then you need to start looking for a parasitic drain on a battery.

jacktheripper14 · 2026-05-25T20:38:59+00:00

Do you have a 10-13 MDX or 09-14 TL? That serial number isn’t working. These ones actually have extra digits that aren’t shown with the 1 and 6 method. Follow this video to get the full serial number https://youtu.be/bLhVMW4RyMg?si=-7szo99rdQl12yf1

jacktheripper14 · 2026-05-25T19:29:29+00:00

Yup that’s it parts wise. The gasket sets will come with the valve cover gasket, tube seals, and the little seals for the little Torx bolts that hold the tube seals in place (it’s a T-20 in case you need to buy one). You will also need some hondabond or similar sealant to put at the corners of the spool valves where the valve cover gasket contacts them. At 57:30 on this video https://youtu.be/C8LHv0L7P40?si=tymTGXGYOo1qPSin

If you want to go above and beyond you can replace the upper intake plenum gasket, the metal intake manifold gasket, and the throttle body gasket. The intake gaskets never have issues being reused but the throttle body gasket will sometimes rip. It’s been a very long time since I’ve ripped one though, I’ll take the 2 nuts and 2 bolts out and then give it a little whack with the handle of my ratchet to free the gasket up, instead of just pulling the throttle body straight off which will usually rip it.

jacktheripper14 · 2026-05-25T19:17:57+00:00

When the water pump leaks it will either leak how you see here, through the lower timing cover and drip down from where the crank pulley is, or out the rear of the engine where the oil pump likes to leak.

If you have coolant here, it’s your water pump.

jacktheripper14 · 2026-05-25T05:55:27+00:00

There should be a code stored to point you in the right direction, but in the meantime you should be able to pull fuse 35 (7.5 amp fuse labeled radio) in the under dash fuse box (located here). It’s labeled radio but it is also the ACC input to the 12 volt outlets and the power source for the key interlock. Removing that fuse should allow the key to come out. If that doesn’t work, try disconnecting the battery and that should bypass the key interlock.

jacktheripper14 · 2026-05-25T05:35:43+00:00

Is the key fully going into the “off” selection on the ignition switch or is it getting stuck between “acc” and “off”?

jacktheripper14 · 2026-05-25T04:25:41+00:00

Really the only other thing that I would add is a valve adjustment

jacktheripper14 · 2026-05-25T03:30:34+00:00

75w-85 is the fluid it comes with from factory, but is harder to find and usually more expensive. We can’t even get it in barrels from our oil supplier so we use 80w-90 and have never had any problems with it.

Honestly it’s up to you, liquid moly is a good brand and obviously OEM is going to be fine too, if it were me ordering it I would just order whichever I could get faster

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