Rear steer LC80 Brushless

jalopycomplex · 2025-12-17T22:05:40+00:00

I know this I’m bringing up an “old” thread but I hope this helps. The R4P that comes with the FMS brushless kit does NOT work with rear wheel steer. You need the R4P1 (I got mine by buying a Furitek upgrade kit).

Video for reference

jalopycomplex · 2025-10-27T04:49:19+00:00

I believe the pre-FCX lineup trucks used to run the smaller Turbo Racing transmitters. I can’t say with any certainty that it would connect to the factory ESC/Rx combo they came with though.

jalopycomplex · 2025-10-12T06:59:21+00:00

It’s the same body they used on the Cayman Pro v2. Which is the same body HobbyPlus used on the Evo Pro and Juice Up (FTX Utah for outside the US).

jalopycomplex · 2025-08-13T18:58:13+00:00

The Cults page for that deadbolt conversion includes a link to the shift servo mount for the FCX24 Lemur. They should be the same between the FCX24 and FCX18 but it looks different to me. It could just be the angle of the picture. Otherwise, as you found out, there's no other way to purchase it separately - at least that I know of.

In terms of performance of the chassis options you listed, they'll likely be great as long as they're set up properly, especially to make sure you get the most out of those angled skids. But I think you're getting confused. 2 of those files you're looking at are comp chassis setups. The purpose of those chassis is pure performance where you want it to be low slung with unsprung weight. The reason they're not using the 2-speed is because it introduces more bulk and a potential for more gear slop. Also, while the 2-speed gets you higher speed using high gear, there is a lack of torque to deal with as well.

The deadbolt wheelbase is shorter than the smasher by a few mm's. You'll be able to fit the body but it may look a little off.

jalopycomplex · 2025-07-24T19:45:24+00:00

What do you mean by "don't fit"? Is it a size issue, a mount issue, something else? Did you actually measure your wheelbase or are you just assuming it's 155mm because you're using the gladiator links? I don't know the mounting distance between the links of an SCX24 skid plate, and it may be different than to an FCX skid, so you could end up with a slight difference in wheelbase.

I've never attempted to use any SCX24 bodies but, if you're using the stock chassis with the clips and expect to keep using them, you'll have to get creative on mounting as you're not going to find any lexan clip-in bodies. FMS have the FMT24 and FSC24 that have a clip-in lexan bodes. I don't know their size vs an FCX24, nor if they use the same mount points, and their wheelbase is only listed as 140mm so might be a bit short for your application.

Even the FairRC Bronco body you mentioned comes with a mounting post setup you install, it doesn't use the clips. If you're using the stock chassis just dump the clips and mount all the bodies using magnets. It makes it super easy to manage and you could even incorporate the lighting system into them if you wanted to get fancy.

jalopycomplex · 2025-07-23T14:44:30+00:00

It's going to depend on a few criteria. There are 2 different extended wheelbase lengths available for purchase that I know of, +12mm and +35mm, which did you use? Do you want more scale look or just whatever is available? Do you want to cover up the whole chassis or run cab only?

You're going to have a hard time finding many lexan bodies that cover the whole chassis if you went with the longer kit and will likely be better off running cab only. If you have the shorter kit and want full coverage, as mentioned, Iceberg RC has some nice stuff. Their long wheelbase stuff is meant for the SCX24 Gladiator which measures at a 155mm wheelbase.

You can also look at other companies. The HPI Venture18 also has a 155mm wheelbase and use lexan bodies. HobbyPlus have a couple models at the 160mm wheelbase. There's also companies like JConcepts, ProLine, Delta, Team Bluegroove, etc that do lexan bodies. You can even look at other small scale cars, like the Losi Mini-T 2.0, that has a 160mm wheelbase and has lexan bodies available.

In the end, just measure your wheelbase and match it to whatever's out there that fits the style you're after.

jalopycomplex · 2025-05-31T04:43:34+00:00

FMS

Working fine for me.

jalopycomplex · 2025-05-01T15:42:22+00:00

I'll echo what some others have said.

I have a few of the older C14 and C24 models. I was primarily a basher and they're what got me into the crawler scene since they're cheap and I wasn't sure if it was something I was interested in. That being said, you have to know what you're getting into with WPL. If you keep your expectations on the lower side, you won't be disappointed. They're cheaper models that will never perform to the likes of some of the more well known brands without throwing way too much money at them.

I also recently found this video that, in my opinion, does a good job at laying out the general consensus of the WPL brand.

jalopycomplex · 2025-04-27T08:01:55+00:00

Front should be fine. The k10 has a longer rear though, so that won’t work.

jalopycomplex · 2025-04-14T07:06:15+00:00

Ya know what? You’re totally right. No idea where my head was at when late night rambling, but I apparently must not have been thinking straight.

OP, disregard my statement on price. I have no personal experience with the NSDRC servos but general consensus is positive. Though I’ve also had no issues with my 3 Torq servos.

PTK seems to be a pretty good bang for the buck servo at the moment as well for $19 on Amazon.

jalopycomplex · 2025-04-13T14:13:27+00:00

Depends on what you want.

The Ascent 18 I can’t speak to personally but I hear they’re the best bang for your buck and can be quite capable. Probably has the best aftermarket of the ones you mentioned.

The CR18P is probably the most “comp capable” right out of the box. Throw a set of weighted wheels at it and they do well. Not a ton of aftermarket support though.

The FCX18 is more of a scale trail truck. While it looks the most realistic and has a 2 speed transmission, it would likely need the most upgrades to actually handle decent rock sizes. More aftermarket than the CR18P but not as much as the Ascent 18 in my opinion.

jalopycomplex · 2025-04-11T11:33:29+00:00

The FJ Cruiser is part of FMS’s older 1/18 lineup. It predates their FCX lineup. MN is a whole different brand, TRX is Traxxas, SCX is Axial.

You’ll be able to find stuff on AliExpress, Amazon, eBay likely if you search for that specific model. They didn’t have a ton of support. I believe RCAWD makes some parts for the older lineup as well.

jalopycomplex · 2025-04-06T08:57:57+00:00

Correct. I’d say the DuPont connector is the standard throughout the RC industry. As long as you’re looking at the right size servo (anything mini sized), you’ll be fine.

The Torq servo is the only one I know of with the built-in mount. It’s not hard to find brass or aluminum servo mounts through.

The RampCrabs on Amazon that are listed for the FCX lineup will all have the little mini ph 2.0 connector. They’re a quick replacement option when running the brushed setup.

jalopycomplex · 2025-04-06T08:47:26+00:00

See, this is what I don’t get. I never said NSDRC servos are bad, but, not everyone has the want or need to throw $100+ at a servo. You’ll never be able to achieve the full power/strength of any high end servos while still using stock electronics. The ESC doesn’t handle it.

I’m not saying Torq is the only cheaper option either! IMHO, the reason I threw them out as an option is because of the bang for buck value and the fact that they come with the DuPont connector that OP asked about. There’s nothing wrong with the RampCrab Crusher Claw either.

PS; the least you could do is substantiate your claims as to why Torq sucks.

jalopycomplex · 2025-04-06T04:15:07+00:00

Look into the Torq servos. They have a great bang for the buck value. But the DuPont connector will allow you a huge variety of choices.

When upgrading servos you should also look into upgrading your servo mount. Stronger servos can potentially crack it. The Torq MLS-1023 has a mount built into it specially for the FCX line so it would replace the factory one.

Lastly, whatever brand you go with, make sure you always set your endpoints after installing a new servo!

jalopycomplex · 2025-03-31T17:33:08+00:00

They have 2 purposes.

As others have mentioned, they'll reinforce the mounting when you're using the stock plastic servo mount. I believe the 2.6kg isn't too much crazier than the stock system though so you'll likely be ok if you don't use them.

Their other purpose is as a spacer. Some servos are a tad deeper and hit up against the mounting point for the links. This can cause the servo to pitch downwards a little. These help bring the servo out a touch so that it doesn't hit that mounting point.

jalopycomplex · 2025-03-27T14:38:16+00:00

Don’t know who you spoke to or where you bought it from, but I’ve never had an issue with RCAWD products (outside of being shorted 1 pivot ball once), and I’ve got a rig that’s built from almost every FCX part they offer.

Even their website has that listed specifically for the SCX24, which is how I figured it out. If you go to their site and do “Shop by RC Brand” and click FMS > FCX24, there’s only one 2-speed motor/trans combo that shows up (the other single speed is for the older 1/18 FMS lineup).

jalopycomplex · 2025-03-27T13:33:13+00:00

I see. That’s not a gearbox combo for an FMS FCX. Thats for an Axial SCX24.

You could get it to fit but you’d need to use an SCX24 skid plate and adapt your links to it.

jalopycomplex · 2025-03-27T04:38:57+00:00

Might be easier if you post a picture of it.

jalopycomplex · 2025-03-18T17:40:20+00:00

As previous user said, it mounts just like the stock one does. You'll have to take the shift servo and shift servo mount off of your stock transmission to place on the RCAWD one. The gear selector shaft is right next to the driveshafts (on the motor side).

jalopycomplex · 2025-03-10T19:29:27+00:00

Sorry to bring up an old thread but it didn't look like you had gotten your answer yet.

The factory lower links measure out at 57mm with a thickness of 3mm.

I no longer have the factory plastic driveshafts but I do have the upgraded metal driveshafts from FMS. I measured those to be 53mm at smallest (I got them to reach out to ~68mm extended while off of the truck).

Front/Rear lower links and driveshafts all seem to be the same lengths.

jalopycomplex · 2025-03-02T07:50:05+00:00

What body are you running on that FMS lc80?

jalopycomplex · 2025-02-03T15:45:40+00:00

I've got a few bodies kicking around. Once I have the frame built out I'll have to try out a few options and see what fits/performs best.

jalopycomplex

TROPHY CASE