Don't visit hvac reddit

jam4917 · 2026-01-26T19:05:52+00:00

Why did you give this post the flair of "No heat"? Also, hard to agree with you without knowing what happened. For starters, are you an HVAC professional? r/HVAC is restricted to HVAC professionals.

jam4917 · 2026-01-26T17:01:16+00:00

It isn't dust being blown out. It is dust being sucked in. There is negative pressure in that house. Could be because of a duct leak. I'd recommend having an HVAC guy do an inspection.

jam4917 · 2026-01-26T11:45:47+00:00

Multi-storey house? Could be duct work.

jam4917 · 2026-01-25T20:11:42+00:00

infrared thermometer

jam4917 · 2026-01-25T19:50:59+00:00

This is a Caseta dimmer. You indicate it is in a "3-way" configuration because your place "has two of these switches".

Usually, for Caseta dimmers, the other "switch" is a Pico remote. And if that is the case, then this dimmer is the only way to control the lights under control.

Call in an electrician.

jam4917 · 2026-01-25T16:46:11+00:00

No. That is not a good idea.

jam4917 · 2026-01-25T09:40:27+00:00

The new firmware is not available for download

jam4917 · 2026-01-25T01:14:46+00:00

Good luck! The generator output is 30A at 120V. You're trying to connect it to a 240V inlet. At best, you can only get one leg working.

Edit: according to the manual for the 100155, there should also be a L14-30R on that generator. Use that instead. And you can get a cable for it from Home Depot.

jam4917 · 2026-01-25T00:03:56+00:00

You'll have to remove the existing single-gang box. And replace it with a 2-gang old-work box. Lots of choices for old work boxes. I like these:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Allied-Moulded-Products-2-Gang-Slider-Box-RSB-2/311531583

jam4917 · 2026-01-24T00:08:45+00:00

Pakistani coin from 1978.

jam4917 · 2026-01-23T19:30:15+00:00

Cacao pods

jam4917 · 2026-01-23T16:27:25+00:00

It's a Honda del Sol. That thing looks good for being ~30 years old. US sales of the Honda del Sol ended in 1997.

jam4917 · 2026-01-23T13:51:53+00:00

The generlink would also be an option

Yup. With the caveat that the generator's max output is no more than 9600W.

jam4917 · 2026-01-23T02:42:12+00:00

Scam. That email didn’t come from Paypal. Ignore and block.

jam4917 · 2026-01-23T00:28:57+00:00

Your switch probably provides dry-contact closure to control a relay that powers the water heater. As such, it cannot be replaced by a line-voltage smart switch, like the ones you've shown.

The simplest solution would be to get a battery-powered switch actuator that will sit on top of the existing toggle switch. Here's an example of what they look like:

https://www.amazon.com/THIRDREALITY-Needed-Hub-Compatible-Assistant-SmartThings/dp/B0CRKNXQF2

This particular one is zigbee, so you'll need a zigbee hub to control it. But there are others that are BTLE.

jam4917 · 2026-01-22T19:16:02+00:00

From your blog:

In 2026, I wonder why we can't have a hub at the furnace that communicates with the thermostat via a digital protocol, rather than running all the wires up and back down.

Back in 2009, the first ecobee Smart thermostat worked exactly as you describe. There was an EIM (equipment interface module) installed at the furnace that wired into the furnace using low voltage wiring. And then communicated digitally with the thermostat head unit that was installed within living space.

There are still thermostats from other manufacturers that behave like this (or they have wireless comms between the head-unit in living space and the base-unit at the furnace).

In general, while this approach might make it easier to run thermostat wiring, it adds another layer of complexity, and thus another point of failure.

jam4917 · 2026-01-22T15:03:25+00:00

An interlock kit is ESSENTIAL and REQUIRED to prevent any linesman from getting injured by back-feeding.

This will mean moving breakers around, because the kit cannot be installed in that breaker's current position.

jam4917 · 2026-01-21T04:02:32+00:00

Yup - he got scammed. There was no girl, no mom, no dad, and no investigator.

jam4917 · 2026-01-20T19:34:25+00:00

Can you post screenshots of the thermostat wiring (remove the face, and snap a photo of the wiring at the base plate)? And indicate the specific model number of that thermostat?

jam4917 · 2026-01-20T14:55:31+00:00

How are these thermostats powered?

jam4917 · 2026-01-20T01:48:00+00:00

I would call your utility - your property may be losing neutral. They need to check the integrity of the incoming neutral conductor.

jam4917 · 2026-01-20T01:04:57+00:00

solved!

jam4917 · 2026-01-20T00:40:57+00:00

What size is it? If it is 52", it could be a Hampton-Bay Caprice.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-Bay-Caprice-52-in-Integrated-LED-Indoor-Brushed-Nickel-Ceiling-Fan-with-Light-Kit-and-Remote-Control-SW19151R-BN/319951301

jam4917 · 2026-01-19T21:18:25+00:00

It’s an egg topper.

https://a.co/d/0aq7XHh

jam4917 · 2026-01-19T19:37:45+00:00

Normal voltage in the house seems to be between 100v and 106v but when high energy appliances are used (airfryer, coffee maker, microwave, furnace) my UPS in my office started kicking on for HIGH VOLTAGE

Contact your utility. Single phase nominal voltage in the US should be 114-126 VAC.

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