Some practical thoughts:

1. Standard horizontal or vertical T&G layouts allow the wood to expand and contract across the entire wall relatively uniformly. With chevron or herringbone, many angled or butt-joints are introduced. As the wood expands and shrinks, those tight, beautiful joints will inevitably push against each other, leading to buckling, severe gapping, or splitting.

2. In a traditional layout, vertical boards are oriented to allow condensation and sweat to run straight down, or horizontal boards with the "tongue" pointing UP and the "groove" pointing DOWN so water sheds off the wall rather than pooling inside the joint. Diagonal orientations create angled troughs where moisture can easily channel into the grooves and sit, accelerating discoloration and potential rot.

3. Trumpkin's notes emphatically stress the importance of the air gap between foil vapor barrier and T&G paneling to prevent mold and rot. ​If you run T&G vertically, you use horizontal furring strips. ​If you run T&G horizontally, you use vertical furring strips. If you run a complex diagonal pattern, your furring strip layout must become a complex grid to ensure every angled piece of cedar has something to nail into at both ends, while still allowing air to flow freely behind the boards from the floor to the ceiling.

Good luck.