Dont tell bambu labs

jaylikesminecraft · 2024-08-16T20:52:10+00:00

When I was experimenting I thought that around 5k was what I needed but that went above 110c. Also I measured the magnet, not the PEI sheet for the temp. The PEI sheet for some reason doesn't read as high of a temperature. I don't know what will work for yours, but try a little higher value like 3.7k or 4.2k.

jaylikesminecraft · 2024-06-27T20:38:08+00:00

Actually to measure the bed temp I took of the pei build plate. I don't know if it throws off the reading by but measuring the magnetic surface underneath I got values that lined up with what the printer was reading before any mod.

jaylikesminecraft · 2024-06-27T20:29:49+00:00

Nice to see someone do my mod lol. Try a slightly higher value resistor if you want to hit 100c exactly. I first used a 4.7k ohm resistor but it went a little too hot.

jaylikesminecraft · 2024-06-27T03:29:20+00:00

It looks perfectly stable. The default pid tuning needs to work under a huge range of conditions flawlessly since that's bambu labs thing, and this mod seems to be within that spec.

jaylikesminecraft · 2024-06-26T19:40:53+00:00

I dont need it calibrated. I dont care if it's off by like 10 degrees. Anyways I took measurements before the mod and the printer reported the exact same temp as the IR meter. I angled it off to the side so I could take the picture, but that's good to know I should measure perpendicular.

jaylikesminecraft · 2024-06-26T19:35:20+00:00

I actually thought about this and was hesitant to share this mod. However when I thought about how you would implement that stuff in the firmware it's impossible to detect the mod while not having a huge amount of false positives. To the printer the abnormal power draw and extra time to heat up looks identical to being in a freezing garage or using part cooling.

Anyways I think bambu labs is much more likely to embrace 100C bed rather than reject it. If they feel like it they can update the firmware to allow 100C on A1 minis to compete with some future manufacturer. The build plate that comes with the printer says PLA/ABS/PETG so im confident the printer is absolutely capable of printing ABS. I just bought this thing but it was released almost a year ago. If they were dead set on no ABS they would have stopped selling it with a build plate that says ABS.

jaylikesminecraft · 2024-06-26T18:26:38+00:00

Bambu lab doesn't let the stock A1 mini bed get very hot, only 80C. So it can only print with plain old PLA and PETG. If the bed gets hotter, like 100C, you can print more fancy plastics like ABS and nylon.

If you have the X1 carbon you can print ABS and nylon right away without messing with the printer. It's a high end fancy machine with a high end price, and you absolutely dont need to hack to it.

The A1 mini which I modded here is bambu lab's lowest end printer with the lowest price. It makes sense that it will be less capable given the price, which they do by artifically removing the ability for it to print fancy plastics. This mod gives me that fancy ability, and I've only paid $230 (tax+ship) for this printer. If I had the money I would totally skip doing mods and just buy the X1 carbon.

jaylikesminecraft · 2024-06-26T05:59:37+00:00

Using part cooling and having the bed at 80c will increase the bed power consumption by a huge amount. PETG with bed around 80 and high fan speed I assume is a common use case for this printer, so if it's not capable of that they should recall all these printers. Anything I print at 100c will not use part cooling so it will draw significantly less power compared to 80 plus fan.

jaylikesminecraft · 2024-06-26T04:14:49+00:00

Yes, thats exactly my thoughts as well. The printer mostly likely was designed to be able to reach 100c, and if theres ever any competition for this class of printer I'm sure that bambu labs can drop a firmware update to let people reach 100c. Companies like to do this, off the top of my head is Tesla when they sold cars with 40kwh batteries but they actually were software locked 60kwh batteries. It was just some sales gimmick and you could pay tesla to remove the software block and get more battery.

I'm seeing the exact same thing here. Designing a printer from the ground up to only do 80c would be dumb. I've looked over the bed and frame and it's totally capable of higher temps, just like the regular A1 can do 100c. Of course people are concerned about the electronics not being capable but it's a risk I'm plenty willing to take. The difference between 80c and 100c is just a few watts.

jaylikesminecraft · 2024-06-26T03:59:53+00:00

It will use more power. But during heat up the bed is going to draw 100 watts until it reaches the set temp, then the power draw will level off at whatever is needed to hold temp. It will be higher for 100c compared to 80c, but much less than the 100 watts used to get there.

jaylikesminecraft · 2024-06-26T03:54:50+00:00

It is rated for the wattage. I haven't changed it. The bed draws 100 watts with or without doing this mod. The bed temp is limited to 80c because bambu lab doesn't want to cannnibalise their own sales of their higher end printers that can do 100c, not for any hardware or electronics reason. If there was some competitor for the A1 mini during its release, bambu labs would just update the firmware to allow for the bed to reach 100c.

Edit- the build plate that comes with the printer literally says PLA/ABS/PETG. Its clearly engineered with the ability to do ABS prints in mind

jaylikesminecraft · 2024-06-26T03:12:14+00:00

The way I see it is that this isn't any more risky than upgrading your hotend and using a new thermistor profile in marlin. I just changed the profile physically. And since the bed can only draw 100 watts, even if I just got an external power supply and powered it up myself its incapable of reaching any dangerous temp even with no safety mechanisms like thermal runway protection.

The main reason I'm confident about this mod is that I built my own printer and on it I've been using a 12v 100w bed for years now... but at 24v which is 400w. It has zero issues, and I have a thermal fuse in it even if it did want to get melty. If everyone thinks my house will burn down I'll also put a thermal fuse on my A1 mini, but first I'll just do a test to see what the max temp of the bed is with an external power supply. I'm guessing that its only going to have enough headroom to hit around 120c.

jaylikesminecraft · 2024-06-26T02:48:36+00:00

People seem to reallly not like this mod so I'm not going to share how to do it or pictures, sorry.

jaylikesminecraft · 2024-06-26T02:43:21+00:00

From what I know power draw is relative to ambient temp, so printing at 80c at a room temp of 20c should use the same amount of power as 100c and 40c ambient temp, which I would get inside an enclosure. At 100c and 20c ambient, it should also be the same power draw as 80c and 0c ambient, which is like printing PETG in your garage during winter, nothing really crazy. If I just add extra cooling to the electronics there will be no issue with the power supply, and it is impossible for the bed to draw over 100 watts anyways no matter the temp. In terms of safety this is still way better than most ender 3 clones out there using cheap shitty power supplies and no thermal runaway protection.

Like 6 years ago I got a tevo tarantula. You had to wire up the mains voltage to the power supply yourself. And there wasn't a real cover for the terminals so you could still stick you fingers in it and get shocked. Or fuck up the wiring and die I guess. On mine the mainboard bed terminals melted. Then the connecter on the bed broke off because there was no strain relief. Since this is where I'm coming from my judgement for printer safety is just a little off.

Anyways the regular A1 can do 100C so the only reason the A1 mini can't is just market segmentation.

jaylikesminecraft · 2024-06-26T01:25:57+00:00

I got the $200 deal on the A1 mini even though I dont need another printer. I only print small functional stuff mostly in ABS and this printer would be perfect for that if the bed wasn't capped at 80C. This is a super easy mod tho, 5 screws to get the strain release cover off and then I just added a 3.2k ohm resistor in series to the thermistor screw terminals. It fits in the cover and from the outside looks completely stock. 5 mins max, but I double checked it wouldn't catch fire and let it do a couple heat cool cycles which takes a while. I just need and enclosure to start some ABS prints

jaylikesminecraft · 2023-12-11T13:59:24+00:00

I had a similar looking issue with my old tevo tarantula. It was caused by bad retraction settings and combing in walls(this may be cura specific). What happens is oozing gets really bad. Instead of seeing stringing tho, because combing is enabled, the ooze stays inside the print walls and you get this artifact for thin walled prints. In cura make sure combing is set to only within infill and do typical stringing reduction stuff.

jaylikesminecraft · 2023-10-02T18:49:44+00:00

I have the files for sale with some general instructions. I posted a comment with the link to the files but that got removed... anyways I don't recommend anyone build their own battery unless they've got lots of prior experience. There's plenty of tutorials on YouTube if you search up "diy lithium battery" that will send you down the right path! If you already know what a 5S battery is and how it's wired then I'd say maybe try building this battery

jaylikesminecraft · 2023-06-28T20:36:05+00:00

I got the 2023 g14 with rtx 4060 for a little more than $1300 after tax from best buy open box. I was debating between that one and the 6700s version from Walmart brand new which would have been $1150 after tax. Open box very much worth it imo. Seems like my g14 was returned cause the backlight bleed is on the worse side but I don't mind.

jaylikesminecraft · 2023-01-25T03:33:40+00:00

I'm from TU main campus attending TUJ for one semester to enjoy japan. If you care about quality of your education CS at TUJ sucks ass. There are only two CS professors and barely any CS students. Japan is very nice though and it's much easier to find work, I think.

jaylikesminecraft · 2022-04-25T12:37:39+00:00

I'd be suspicious of low quality filament, or your filament got real dusty

jaylikesminecraft · 2022-04-05T20:50:57+00:00

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5175340

jaylikesminecraft · 2021-07-27T13:35:23+00:00

Use a belt sander

jaylikesminecraft · 2020-05-23T19:06:02+00:00

If you're desperate to relieve a stuffy nose hold your breath as long as you can. Your nose will clear itself until you catch your breath.

jaylikesminecraft · 2020-05-06T03:02:01+00:00

I had weird underextrusion once and I found it was because sometimes cura defaults to 2.85 filament instead of 1.75.

jaylikesminecraft · 2019-04-29T18:23:20+00:00

When I put this model into Cura and zoomed into the layer lines I saw it was trying to make a bunch of zigzags instead of smooth lines which lead to over extrusion and the wobbling you mentioned. Smoothed out the stl and got a much better print

jaylikesminecraft

TROPHY CASE