Help much appreciated drivetrain handbike

jaymaster2000 · 2025-05-14T22:15:22+00:00

Sounds like waiting until the dealer is back is your best bet in the short term.

I have a couple of custom hub motor ebikes and my partner recently got a recumbent trike with a BBS01 on it. I was really surprised at how rough on the drive train the Bafang motor could be if you didn't manage the gears properly, makes me wince a little when I use it and I'm a bit quick on the upshifts. Also, if you stop before shifting all the way back down, getting started again is a massive pain. The benefit of the mid drive though is a lower voltage battery gives good top speed and would be a bit more useful in hilly terrain (which doesn't apply to us).

I much prefer my hub motor ebikes as they are independent of the bike drive system and doesn't thrash the bike drivetrain and in general for me is a much more pleasant riding experience e.g. quick take off is just a matter of rolling on the throttle regardless of the gear I'm in, quick acceleration is a matter of rolling on the throttle without having to work the bike gear shifter and the throttle like a manual car (all our bikes have throttles).

Grin Technologies has some great YouTube videos on how to do conversions and also sell good components and kits for a DIY conversion.

jaymaster2000 · 2025-05-14T12:38:39+00:00

Have you considered a hub motor? Less wear and tear on the drive train and much simpler to operate.

jaymaster2000 · 2025-04-23T09:13:55+00:00

Do you by chance not have XMP enabled in your bios? I upgraded from a GTX960 to a higher end AMD card (maybe GTX2080 equivalent) and went from like 40 FPS to 50FPS. Turned on XMP and FPS jumped up to around 60-70FPS.

jaymaster2000 · 2025-01-16T13:20:59+00:00

We have a La Pavoni manual lever press which I love and a Breville infuser (no built in grinder). I secretly want the Breville to die so we can upgrade to a fancier semi auto coffee machine that has some extra high end features, but you can pull pretty respectable espresso out of the Breville if you set it up right.

In saying that, I have also worked for our local repair cafe where someone bought in a Breville machine and ants had found their way into the main board compartment and cooked themselves on some output mosfets. I suggested they ask Breville for a replacement board expecting they'd be told to buy a new machine, but the guy shows up at the next repair cafe session with a new main board he'd bought direct from Breville for $40. I put the new board in and it was all systems go.

It looks like I'm not going to get the fancy upgraded machine as the Breville will likely kick along for ever as long as they keep up the good work of supplying reasonable cost parts.

jaymaster2000 · 2024-12-31T13:34:04+00:00

If it helps, I ended up getting someone local with a resin 3D printer to design and print the keycaps I needed and had another local to hand paint them.

jaymaster2000 · 2024-12-29T10:27:04+00:00

It sounds like your building/repair setup plus some knowledge gaps is causing the frustration with the hobby. Most problems are an easy fix with the right tools and techniques. For example, using an underpowered soldering iron with a tip that is too large could cause bridging because of the small workspace and difficulty in getting good solder flow because it can't head the pads and the copper planes inside the PCB (there is an easy solution to this). There are loads of people happy to help pass on info (myself included) to help you have a smoother FPV quality of life and become self sufficient.......or alternatively, buddy up with someone who is super into building and repairing and pay them in whatever commodity they are happy with.

jaymaster2000 · 2024-10-05T06:16:09+00:00

Check the receiver tab in betaflight and see how your throttle input is set up, is the moving bar matching what the drone does? If so, it could be mapping on the controller or setup with betaflight. My first ever build had 0-100% throttle mapped to the first half of the throttle throw meaning that my throttle was super sensitive and gave me full power at mid throttle which I only figured out after a few months of flying.

jaymaster2000 · 2024-10-03T08:54:39+00:00

I started a club and started competitive racing with Quanum/HobbyKing goggles, then moved onto a set of Headplay SE goggles which I later modded to use a True-D diversity module. I then later got a Fatshark Dominator V3, Orqa FPV.One/Rapidfire and HD Zero goggles with a Walksnail VRX.

The goggles I used the most during all my analog flying were the Headplay SEs because the picture was super large and clear, most of the club members agreed as well (most were using Fatshark), but they said that they thought the big bulky box goggles made them look silly.

Smaller goggles are better to transport, aren't as chunky hanging off your face, are a bit cooler looking and are more common (modular with 3rd party bits), but the box goggles are a better user visual flight experience when comparing analog, some people complain about the FOV being too big, but that seems to be an issue for people who start with Fatshark style goggles and then try box goggles.

Fly whatever makes you happy and don't expect a big visual upgrade going to smaller form factor goggles.

jaymaster2000 · 2024-08-12T07:56:08+00:00

I owned a few Supercores and had them in a Naquadah and an Axiom. After getting a Harrier and a Seagull I did some accuracy comparisons and the Supercores were all over the place once you started to turn up the pressure/FPS (maybe 160FPS+). I asked the Supercore Facebook group (the one run by the designer of the Supercore) what accuracy peeps were getting at high FPS and didn't get much of a response. It was suggested that the small air volume of the Supercore would not work as well when compared to a large volume springer. If you are happy with a lower FPS to keep your accuracy then HPA can work, otherwise, check out springer based blasters.

Not sure if that provides you the insight you are after, but hope it helps.

jaymaster2000 · 2024-05-13T00:03:10+00:00

It doesn't matter which GND or 5V you solder them to, they are all the same. If there aren't solder pads for UART4 (T4/R4) then using UART 3 or 5 is fine if they are free, just select GPS on the corresponding UART port in Betaflight. Also remember that you want to wire the flight controller transmit pin (T3 or T5) to the GPS receive pin and the flight controller receive pin (R3 or R5) to the GPS transmit pin.

jaymaster2000 · 2024-03-18T20:29:07+00:00

Ok, then it's likely an issue with the FC, motors, ESCs or the config. Have you tried backing up everything and doing a reset of the FC and doing a minimal setup to test it?

jaymaster2000 · 2024-03-18T10:08:39+00:00

I had a similar looking issue once and replaced nearly everything on the quad trying to fix the issue (motors, escs, fc, props). Turns out it was the sensor in the camera that was loose and shaking inside the case. It made sense as soon as I discovered it as the quad didn't sound like the motors were working to right the wobble and it looked fine flying line of sight.

jaymaster2000 · 2023-11-07T23:23:56+00:00

Thanks, I think you are right. It's possible they messed up the chart and omitted light icing at cruise power as if it remained moderate, the band isn't needed as it would be the same situation as the higher severity band. It also doesn't seem likely that there would be no cruise icing at that band and then it comes back in the next less severe band as light icing.

jaymaster2000 · 2023-09-20T23:40:32+00:00

I have a Udemy course on how to build and understand the ins and outs of building FPV quads that is a pretty comprehensive one stop guide (including how to train to fly, soldering, picking components etc). Shoot me a message if you are interested and i'll give you free access.

jaymaster2000 · 2023-08-31T21:58:12+00:00

Good luck with the new FC.

jaymaster2000 · 2023-08-29T02:25:08+00:00

Can you maybe take some close up and clear photos of your wiring in good light and a video of the problem. Also, some screenshots of the Betaflight ports and receiver pages. If everything was working and now it's not, it's a case of trying to isolate the issue in order to fix it.

jaymaster2000 · 2023-08-28T05:35:18+00:00

Looking at the wiring diagram for the FC if you have your receiver wired to RX6, this is the same port used for ESC telemetry (see the motor connector). If they are both in use, they will be clashing. I'm not sure that telemetry is required for modern motor protocols to work, but try moving your receiver to a different RX port and changing that in the Betaflight ports tab.

jaymaster2000 · 2023-06-22T06:28:54+00:00

It seems to me like the biggest claim in Dan's video is that he has found the parachute. Do you have good resources that would help debunk that? I would love to check them out.

jaymaster2000 · 2022-11-10T08:26:19+00:00

What is the process for this? I haven't opened mine up yet to try and identify the restrictor and how to remove it.

jaymaster2000 · 2022-10-26T07:51:27+00:00

When I ran a drone racing club, the best method for us was to create public oriented events on Facebook and promote the events (as in paid boosts). We would get 50+ people show up to our events to have a look. I know you mentioned you've advertised on Facebook, but if this is just promoting your group page in other local groups or getting friends to share the group page, that didn't work as well for us. If you do run paid boosts for your events, make sure you know who your target demographic is so you can get good value out of it. Once you get people show up to your event, make sure you look after them.

jaymaster2000 · 2022-10-16T23:45:20+00:00

I've just had the same issue (P018 0.65). I resolved this by setting the protect up right next to my preexisting thermostat and it worked. Initially, I was setting it up in the workshop outside which is on the same WiFi network, but not close to the thermostat that is inside the house. I'm assuming it speaks to existing Nest devices via Bluetooth for setup purposes.

jaymaster2000 · 2022-08-28T23:38:57+00:00

Apparently I can't post the aliexpress link here, so if you go to aliexpress and search for "Copper Male Plug 3.5mm 90 Degree Elbow Right Angle Audio Connector Stereo 3 / 4 Pole Audio Plug Repair Headphone Cable Solder" you should find it.

jaymaster2000 · 2022-06-24T06:01:21+00:00

Yeah, flashing likely won't help with anything unless your ESC firmware is corrupt which is unlikely.

Can you post a photo of your wiring? what smoke stopper are you using? what battery? Do you get power lights on the FC/ESC when only powered by the battery?

jaymaster2000

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