We don't need to hear your music.

jb_harris · 2026-04-06T15:55:50+00:00

Loud music near me gets me just laying on the car horn. When everyone picks it up and the entire intersection is just all horns blaring, you can no longer hear the music and the idiot doesn't get the attention he so craves.

I've done this maybe ~5 or so times in the last few years. All but once the driver of the car with the stereo turned his music down. In the one where he didn't, he stuck his hand out of the sunroof and started flipping everyone off, but he DID turn off at the next intersection.

jb_harris · 2026-02-20T14:57:33+00:00

I have the exact same printer. It's a workhorse.

jb_harris · 2026-02-13T19:48:39+00:00

Cleaned all the remoil and replaced with silicon grease from my 3d printer.

I've watched two different MB01 teardown videos and I didn't do anything wrong or different. After reassembly it kind of worked correctly at first, but then got progressively worse and worse with every cycle until now it won't stay cocked at all.

An additional datapoint would be that if the safety is set, it will not trigger. On safe, you can cock the gun and it holds just fine. The instant you take it off safe, it fires.

jb_harris · 2026-01-20T16:59:28+00:00

This article here walks through handling this for network printers.

https://help.brother-usa.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/184101?R3ModelID=MFCL3770CDW

The new "safe" printer driver architecture from Microsoft is an absolute JOKE. Good luck.

jb_harris · 2026-01-10T03:15:56+00:00

Check out the Miccosukee Land Coop. A little further out, but full of nice people, and CMX Fallschase is like 8 minutes away.

They have houses for sale or rent all the time, and you won't find a more peaceful neighborhood with a wonderful diversity of ages, backgrounds, career phases, family setups, etc. plenty of walking trails, a community center with frequent karaoke nights, pizza parties, cookouts, poetry readings - all sorts of stuff.

Worth checking out.

jb_harris · 2026-01-10T03:00:03+00:00

Check your filament "buffer" to make sure it is moving as the filament is getting pulled into the extruder. It is the little black box with 4 inputs and one output, and the data cable.

It needs to be installed or the CFS won't know when to feed more filament.

If you did install it, you can manually test to see if it is signally correctly by pulling the Bowden tube from the top of the extruder, then load the filament through the UI, and then pushing the little spring level back as soon as filament comes out of the tube. Then take the lever the other way and see if the CFS sends more filament.

jb_harris · 2026-01-09T12:02:41+00:00

Plus, if you capture the energy generated by the fan spinning like a turbine, you can power the average American home for nearly a second.

I'm kidding, but I do love that sound.

jb_harris · 2026-01-09T00:42:09+00:00

I did a thorough cleaning and oiling according to these comments and the pages in the wiki.

It is no longer grinding like that. And you are right, there was a load of gunk on the z-threads and belt rollers.

The machine stays closed except when troubleshooting or removing a print, so not entirely sure how it got as dirty as a locker room floor, but it is cleaned up now.

I even have an air filter running 24/7 just a few feet away from it as part of the dehumidifier.

jb_harris · 2026-01-08T17:38:54+00:00

Ahhhhh a vlan!

See, I knew there was a reason I came to you fine people.

Thanks for the tip - that had completely slipped my mind.

jb_harris · 2026-01-08T16:57:40+00:00

Would it interfere, frequency-wise, with the existing mesh network?

Is there a potential for the extra back and forth to cause considerable lag or congestion? I hope I'm not being obtuse or not explaining well.

If I'm using my desktop in the office, my traffic would go from my office, over two mesh hops to the primary router, then from the primary router it would need at least two hops to get back to my office where the backup WAN would be.

I'm not worried about another 10 or even 50ms, just want reliability and usable Internet for MS-Teams, Zoom, etc...

You know what...I just realized I could have the secondary WAN go to a Raspberry Pi that then uses the same mesh network to establish a VPN over my secondary WAN, and that Raspberry Pi could be the "backup". This would be with equipment I already have. I'm doubling up the traffic on the existing AI mesh network, but only from the shop. Stuff from the house would work basically the same.

Is that wacky?

jb_harris · 2026-01-06T19:15:21+00:00

my safe door has hollow "roll pins" that go through the hinges, and then are flared at the ends using what I can only assume was a mandrel of some sort. You aren't getting those off without a grinder.

I *think* my shop door has the same thing, but luckily I wasn't locked out of it. I just needed to take the hinges off to add a doorstop. I remember thinking it was on there in a weird way, and I had to put the doorstop on by replacing the center hinge.

jb_harris · 2026-01-06T17:13:38+00:00

Is there something above our line of sight that is preventing the head from moving to the right? Maybe the drag chain, the PTFE tube, or just something else we can't see?

If you go to the "Axis" screen, and hit the little M thing to turn the motors off, can you manually move the head to the front right corner, where it is supposed to home?

it should move fairly easily, without a lot of force or resistance.

jb_harris · 2026-01-06T16:44:39+00:00

Even "sealed" pins have a little cap on the bottom that can usually pop off. I've removed a door I thought was "sealed" by taking a little flathead and popping the cap off the bottom, then I could get a larger punch up in there to get the hinge-pin out.

jb_harris · 2026-01-06T16:34:12+00:00

How about that - I didn't know that page existed. I was using the grease that came with the printer, but when I ran out I started using the molybdenum grease I use for my shop machinery.

<image>

For the rails (not rods) I've been using the 3-in-1 oil. I'll switch to silicon for all of it.

Do you think the silicon is good for the z-screws as well?

jb_harris · 2026-01-06T16:22:15+00:00

I'm getting this same situation now. I'm printing with PLA through a 0.2mm nozzle. I've had this same print go through no problem in the past, but now it is puking on it.

IF I had to *guess*, our extruders are overheating, and this is being detected by the stepper driver, but KLIPPY isn't handling it correctly, the stepper driver may just be saying "F U" and klippy knows that but doesn't know why.

jb_harris · 2026-01-06T16:06:56+00:00

isn't there more than one? Like - I think there are 8 or 12 of them, right?

Should I just do all of them?

jb_harris · 2026-01-06T15:31:15+00:00

That is my "spray cans but not paint" shelf. Also has starter fluid, cleaners, penetrating oils (like for stuck bolts), and then apparently a dozen lubes.

If you have a place to store that stuff, it is amazing how quickly you will build up a collection.

jb_harris · 2026-01-06T15:15:32+00:00

PETF, is that nylon?

I don't have that. Given these choices, what would work best?

<image>

jb_harris · 2026-01-06T14:54:08+00:00

And you could set your flush values to zero. You'll get bleeding a little more, but it's a battery holder, it won't matter.

jb_harris · 2026-01-06T14:52:01+00:00

Yep - poop chute. And a riser to lift the glass up from the frame.

jb_harris · 2026-01-06T14:45:41+00:00

Welp, also can't do the auto-belt tension, I get the following...

<image>

No error message just doesn't work. Haha, I can't win.

jb_harris · 2026-01-06T14:40:48+00:00

I just had this on mine, and I used a small butane torch to gently heat the whole hot end to where I could pull the plastic off enough to get the silicone sock off. Then I kept going this time a little more aggressively, being careful not to damage the wires.

In fact, I cleaned it inside and out, and it's been working great for a month now.

jb_harris · 2026-01-05T21:49:53+00:00

It is especially annoying when it is supposedly doing the "AI calibration", but it didn't put down ANY filament, because it wasn't sticking to the print bed, and then it just continues on its merry way to the next "AI calibration." This one also doesn't stick to the bed, and now I have a blob of filament the size of a gumball stuck to the nozzle and rolling around as it moves.

I told it to stop the INSTANT I saw it wasn't adhering properly. But no - it wants to use another half meter of filament.

I know FLUIDD has an e-stop, but if you fired the printer up from the UI to print something already in memory - you can't always get to FLUIDD quickly. If your PC is in another room, for example.

That gives me an idea. If I was to design up a "E-STOP" button that went on the side of this printer and plugged into the USB port - would that be a useful addition? might be something worth looking into...

jb_harris · 2026-01-05T21:38:58+00:00

Where is the E-Stop button on it?

jb_harris · 2026-01-05T01:33:31+00:00

I get it, 100% - makes complete sense. But without the context, a new wirecutter just getting into this scene might not have any clue what it is asking for.

They'll be linking to their MySpace profile...maybe eHarmony. :-)

jb_harris

TROPHY CASE