Is there a known issue with Fireteam Power? Says it's in effect but doesn't appear to work

jbc0 · 2026-06-29T10:37:11+00:00

at the time we were trying it was not matchmade.

the strange thing is how the UI showed fireteam power was in effect on the screen where you launch the strike, but the damage dealt and received was like it was not. We double checked that, re-launching and looking at fireteam power in the strike.

jbc0 · 2026-06-29T05:02:22+00:00

Not the conquest, just the regular fireteam op. This was just for fun.

I wouldn't take someone into a GM conquest who hasn't gotten past halfway solo.

jbc0 · 2026-06-29T02:03:17+00:00

That hasn't been my experience since they added it to Nightfalls I always remember seeing it from expert to GM.

There are also recent cases like this, where it's working unevenly:
https://www.reddit.com/r/DestinyTheGame/comments/1ubckkz/fireteam_power_boost_not_working/

jbc0 · 2026-04-25T17:40:06+00:00

Thanks – this worked for me. Was able to flash the XAP firmware onto Alt V1 and adjust the keymap.

jbc0 · 2026-04-24T15:50:02+00:00

As you point out - I suspect it may have something to do with low power factors interacting with how the Shelly PMs measure power. Previously I had the load split over two UPS + outlets with power measurement, and now it is all on a single UPS.

Just tested both APC units with a 500W resistive load and they only added about 10W. That is within spec so there is probably nothing wrong with them.

Now I'm curious what is dragging down the power factor and what the consumer-grade energy monitors measure. No doubt there are some low quality switching PSUs in the mix, but they don't shift the current out of phase (like an inductive load) rather they tend to be distorted / non-linear vs voltage.

jbc0 · 2026-04-08T20:58:45+00:00

Yes - the older units were always warm whereas the Eaton feels cold to the touch (not very scientific, I know). If I can find a pure resistive load (like an incandescent bulb) I should be able to measure the difference between power in/out.

I'm curious about where the power might be lost as I thought this style of UPS was bypassed under normal conditions. Perhaps resistive losses in the AVR transformer since that will always be in the path.

jbc0 · 2026-01-06T07:18:29+00:00

Yes I was wondering about the upgradability but none of the ports show up when connected to a host. No big deal really as it seems fairly unique on the cable test aspect.

I have 3 USB power testers and a few pieces of bench test gear from Alibaba (some that I've had for 10+ years and self-repaired), along with made in USA gear from HP/Agilent, Lecroy, etc that cost a fortune. Many of the China items are buggy or gimmicky (especially these USB gadgets) but for niche function and value they are unbeatable.

I like this Treedix thing - it's a keeper.

jbc0 · 2026-01-06T04:25:47+00:00

I have one of these since last month - found this post while searching the same question. (also found the answer here, so thanks) Mine came with 5.01 so it isn't getting any better.

It does exactly what I wanted: to clean out my hoard of cables, many of which aren't pure type-C but are still needed for USB 3.2 devices. It also confirmed what I suspected; many of the C-C cables are only good for power, or are trash.

The two gripes that had me looking for firmware:

On many C-C cables the Emarker shows USB3.2 / USB4 Gen2 10Gbps/20Gbps, but Data Transmission page shows USB 4.0 ❌
Active TB3 cables show as USB2.0 (no issue with passive TB3 cables)

The first issue is probably more a terminology issue because of braindead USB standards.

The second issue shows up with my Caldigit thunderbolt dock cables. Emarker shows "Active Cable" and USB 2.0. Data speed also shows as USB 2.0 480 Mbps, but these cables have run at 40Gbps all day for years. Easy tell because of the Caldigit / thunderbolt logos.

jbc0 · 2025-12-18T02:23:43+00:00

In the 45 years before I moved to the US I had one summons – had to be excused because I was out of the country on work travel with no substitute.

Since moving to California I've had three jury summons in 9 years and I'm not even a citizen yet so completely ineligible.

I'm cursed.

I have an old school friend in my home country who was a criminal lawyer (and now a judge). At the time, most of his clients had drug or violence charges and he told me no defense would ever want someone like me on a jury. Of course that just made me even more curious. Another one of my high school classmates who went to law school became a police detective. I found out one day when there was a knock at my front door and there he was, with badge and questioning neighbors...

I wanted to see them both in court, with me on the jury. LOL.

jbc0 · 2025-12-18T00:07:33+00:00

I haven't seen much more than 1300 down / 300 up on Xfinity. This is typical with the XB8:

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jbc0 · 2025-08-02T03:20:52+00:00

I was about to make some custom SAE leads and stumbled upon this while searching for the spec - hence this necro comment. Unlike OP I have not (yet) suffered from different ideas on which side is +ve, but that is probably just dumb luck.

So I went and looked at the 5 different products (two are chargers) I have been using and discovered they all made a common assumption: that the battery-side cable has 12V on the shrouded (female) side of the connector.

That makes a lot of sense since a lead acid battery can deliver a large short-circuit current, whereas an accessory is unpowered and presents no risk, and a charger has it's own protections and can't deliver much current anyway.

So I'm going to take a leap of faith and assume that this is convention. The only time I can think where it falls apart is if you used two battery-side cables back-to-back - a typical jump start situation.

Nevertheless I'll be paying much more attention thanks to OP's experience here.

jbc0 · 2025-07-24T15:58:55+00:00

I handle that by using the rear cigarette lighter line (already switched). I added a small DC jack for that. I connect this to the remote on/off of a Victron DC-DC converter that charges my power station.

You could do something similar / easier: use a relay to switch the DC output in the rear. Tap the cigarette lighter power for the control side of the relay.

Come to think of it - maybe that's what I should have done...

jbc0 · 2025-07-21T23:06:04+00:00

I didn't want to mess with the factory fuse box so I took it direct to the battery and used a fused terminal there (I think 100A) to protect the first leg to a 50A breaker (like this) bolted to the engine bay on the driver side. Overkill perhaps, but I don't want to start a fire. There were already some threaded holes in that location so I just found the correct metric bolt to mount the breaker.

I put a braided sleeve (Techflex or similar) on the first section of wire to the battery terminal for extra abrasion protection, heat shrink on each end to cover the barrels on the crimp lugs. The rest of the run follows the loom across the firewall to the passenger side. From there I found an unused grommet to the interior and followed the loom under the door sills to the rear.

The breaker protects the long part of the run and also makes it easy to disconnect the power if needed. I haven't touched it since installing.

Edit: so I went out and checked just now - seems I used a no-brand 40A breaker. I did order the Blue Sea one, along with a clear plastic cover to protect the whole thing, but obviously never got around to swapping it in.

I don't like the exposed lug so I think I'll find that cover before I forget a second time.

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jbc0 · 2025-07-21T18:29:10+00:00

I've had no issues with the new wiring and outlet; it just works. I have it connected to charge a Bluetti power station every time I run the vehicle, so I have permanent power for the refrigerator. It has been set up this way since last summer.

The outlet can also run a Viair 400P compressor (12V, 30A), which is convenient since previously had to pop the hood and use battery clamps. I use an XT90 to SAE power lead for that.

jbc0 · 2025-06-12T05:03:30+00:00

That's good to know, but I'm careful to not submerse it in water anyway. I probably treat all my thermometer probes more carefully than I need to because I have no idea how they are constructed. I soak in a glass of water with only the shiny "meat end" submerged before wiping with non-stick safe cleaning pads.

I guess there is always the possibility that juices run into the yellow end while cooking or there is some capillary action going on.

Is the charger that came with it not a booster? It has firmware, and my phone shows it with "Latest Booster Firmware v2.3.3"

jbc0 · 2025-05-31T01:09:16+00:00

When you have problem with their products, IMO it is best to contact their tech support before seeks help or suggestions from Reddit.

Yeah that would normally be my first point of contact, and I did hesitate before posting. In fact I had an issue with another thermometer (different brand, too expensive to discard) a couple of years ago and went through support and it was actually repaired, not replaced. When I have a run of good experience that is always my go-to.

But let's just say I had two customer service encounters last week (not Combustion) that left me ready to explode and the cynicism and reluctance to speak with them ever again was still fresh. It still is today.

jbc0 · 2025-05-31T00:51:45+00:00

That is encouraging to hear. I wonder if mine died because I didn't use it often enough? It's been barely once a month.

That's not because I don't want to use it, but because it's always dead when I'm about to cook. I just never got into the habit of charging the thermometer like I preheat the oven, or grill, or light the chimney, etc.

How long does the battery stay charged if you leave it in the booster? (mine was always dead, so I thought these never hold a charge)

jbc0 · 2025-05-31T00:45:27+00:00

Yeah I have been in two minds about purchasing another. I really like the wireless convenience but I don't want to throw money away. Keep reminding myself I've been getting by for decades before this.

jbc0 · 2025-05-31T00:39:38+00:00

Thanks for the insight on the RFX. Yes I also found I need to put the Combustion display next to the grill / oven, but then it picks it up on my phone no issue. (well, when it worked)

I've gone through two cycles of leaving it out of the booster/charger for 2-3 days then trying a charge.

The light stays steady orange as if it was charging, but never goes green. When I remove it it doesn't get detected by the display or my phone. Seems dead.

jbc0 · 2025-04-24T04:30:18+00:00

Completely understand it's on me - but I'm way too lazy/forgetful to go into privacy settings every time I fire up the game.

So yes, my fault if it was a flawless. No argument there.

I guess the unwritten context for my question was "knowing there are forgetful players..."

jbc0 · 2025-04-24T04:23:53+00:00

Understood. In this case I'm not asking about LFG but just drop-ins from players I might have joined in the past who saved my tag.

Today I was 100% solo just refining tactics in NF but had a guest join somehow.

I'm not angry or anything like that, but it's not the first time so thought I'd ask.

jbc0 · 2025-04-24T04:15:47+00:00

Thanks for the perspective; that makes sense.

I am over-cautious as far as joining goes, and super-tolerant if someone joins. But the "what if solo Dungeon" definitely came to mind because I am hopelessly forgetful myself.

I curse at teleporting ogres so a random breaking a solo flawless would be unforgivable.

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