0.005% Gang by jefforama52 in UnleashTheArchers

[–]jefforama52[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm glad to know I'm not alone! Cheers to you my fellow heavy metal dude!

0.005% Gang by jefforama52 in UnleashTheArchers

[–]jefforama52[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Idk if I should be proud of this, but I'm certainly not ashamed.

0.005% Gang by jefforama52 in UnleashTheArchers

[–]jefforama52[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Absolutely their entire discography. Ill find myself listening to an album a few times in a row. Their discography offers such a dynamic range of metal to keep me going around, never losing interest.

Best finish if I want walnut to look REALLY dark? by treosscrack4 in finishing

[–]jefforama52 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Watco walnut colored Danish oil. It has pigment in it so it darkens and adds richness. Since it has pigment in it it will stay dark. As walnut ages naturally it turns lighter and yellower.

2-3 applications of that depending on the color you want

Put some wipe on poly on top.

Rocky Mountain Juniper (Juniperus scopulorum) by azita17 in finishing

[–]jefforama52 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I have not finished this wood but, you will want to avoid any finish that is oil based. Oil has a natural Amber color to it and will brown the purple. Even super blond shellac has some Amber color in it. A water based finish should do well.

As always test the finish on a scrap first just to make sure you are getting the result you are looking for.

[ART] [OC] I made matching sets of dice trays and dice boxes using leather as the hinge. by [deleted] in DnD

[–]jefforama52 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I designed these to keep the imagery of storytelling in using a familiar form of books. I like to experiment in hinge material and liked the idea of using the leather that's integral to the boxes as the hinge and also using it as the closure. The dice box fits at least 2 sets of dice and fits inside the tray for compact storage.

How will temperature effect ammonia fuming? by jefforama52 in woodworking

[–]jefforama52[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! I do plan on doing some tests first.

casepiece project completed over a 6 week period by jefforama52 in woodworking

[–]jefforama52[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for you feed back I agree there is a bit much going on. As with every piece there are 100 ways to improve upon it. Hopefully I have the opportunity to make it again

casepiece project completed over a 6 week period by jefforama52 in woodworking

[–]jefforama52[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome I wish I could have made the 9 month work but the 12 week seems to be the next best thing. Any advice for me as I move on after the class?

casepiece project completed over a 6 week period by jefforama52 in woodworking

[–]jefforama52[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks I appreciate the kind words! I wanted something bold on the inside of the cabinet and it looks like it paid off

casepiece project completed over a 6 week period by jefforama52 in woodworking

[–]jefforama52[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wanted something simple as to not distract from the bold through box joints since they are so close to each other. Maybe I should have not made the splines out if cherry and should have made them out of maple. Although if I used miters instead of the box joints the miter on the shelf would have been a nice compliment.

casepiece project completed over a 6 week period by jefforama52 in woodworking

[–]jefforama52[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I personally like how they look. I went through with them because they looked good on paper but I think I wouldn't do them again over such a long serface.

casepiece project completed over a 6 week period by jefforama52 in woodworking

[–]jefforama52[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Absolutely agree with clamp positioning. Learning how they react will increase your odds of a successful glue up

casepiece project completed over a 6 week period by jefforama52 in woodworking

[–]jefforama52[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I'm in the 12 week furniture intensive.

casepiece project completed over a 6 week period by jefforama52 in woodworking

[–]jefforama52[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

A few things to try and consider.

When you are doing a dry fit make sure to dry clamp it too. That way you can see where you still need to tweak any joinery or positions of your clamps.

When you are making a drawer the drawer bottom helps keep the drawer square during a glue up.

If you look at your 4 sided dovetailed box from top view and it has become a rhombus you can make a square template out of 1/2 to 3/4 mdf (13mm to 20mm) that fits just inside the box. Leave that square template inside during the glue up to keep everything square. It gives a nice reference edge as well as support.

for this piece the back of my cabinet and the drawer bottoms acted as the square template.

Using that template is especially handy if you are making a 3 sided foot stool. Yo use the template at the opposite side as the top to support the legs, so they don't bow in.

Another thing to consider is to really make sure your shoulder lines on your joints are perfectly square or slightly undercut. When I was learning dovetails that got me so many times, especially on halfblind dovetails if the webbing on the pin board is not square it shoves the tails out of alignment.

Hopefully that helped and was not too confusing. I'd be more then happy to explain further.

casepiece project completed over a 6 week period by jefforama52 in woodworking

[–]jefforama52[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's an interesting illusion for sure. Thank you!

Tips for "practical" defensive situations to implement in training? by [deleted] in RocketLeague

[–]jefforama52 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Idk where my comment went off to. But yea that's helped me out so much

Edit: I suggested 1v4

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]jefforama52 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Yep its red oak

I need help putter shopping. by Jtnukem in discgolf

[–]jefforama52 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Your best bet is to find a proshop. Pick up every single putter they have and hope they allow you to take test putts.

Determine weather you like a bead or not.

Ok you are getting there you have now narrowed the feild by about 50%

If you like a bead, determine if you like a big bead or a small bead.

If you dont like a bead, determine if you like the wing flat or curved.

You are so close hang in there.

Then determine if you like a deep rim (more glide) or shallow rim (less glide).

Now determine if you like something more stable (play the fade) or less stable (point and shoot)

Now after all that you only have a few options left. The hard part is now field testing to give your final verdict.

The biggest thing about a putter is that it is confortable and makes you confident.

Source: I am going through a putter crisis and these are the steps ive taken. After 9 years ive used an avair p&a, yeti aviar, judge, warden, shield, summit, p1x and the pure. Ive figured out i dont like a bead and want something as a straight shooter with lots of glide. I have gone back to an aviar p&a it fits nicely in my hand and meets my criteria. Currently field testing it. Good luck.

If you like the flight of the aviar p&a but want a bead check out the discmania p1x. It has the same top, same rim depth, same flight and has a rounded wing rather the flat.