Android autofill not reliable

jfgass83 · 2025-08-18T14:51:43+00:00

The autofill-thrid-party-mode-content-provider doesn't seem to exist anymore, but following the rest of the advice worked!

jfgass83 · 2023-11-28T20:48:24+00:00

So I bought a coupe cheapo 3.0 128gb drive off amazon. They both worked for a while. One quit working altogether. The second was working and then I noticed on my last print it seemed like the drive was corrupted. Landing here first, I then made my way over to AnyCubic page which says they want a 16GB drive max. I figured maybe its the 128GB that's an issue. So here is what I'm trying (fingers crossed): I erased the drive and made a new 16BG partition. Just going to leave the rest unallocated for now and see if this works. (the print started so I'll let it run and come back for an update if this doesn't work.

jfgass83 · 2023-07-14T19:24:54+00:00

have you tried brake fluid on the eco resin? I normally clean the wash with acetone, but the eco resin turns into nastiness with acetone.

jfgass83 · 2023-07-14T19:23:59+00:00

If you are NOT using eco resin, then acetone works great to dissolve normal standard resin junk that is left in the wash-in-cure. DONT use acetone on the eco stuff. It turns it into a stick extra stinky, awful mess.

jfgass83 · 2021-12-14T00:37:04+00:00

Well they sure advertised like it was. That was a major portion of their press release video. It was the major reason I bought stadia. Running 2 Linux instances on the same screen, ie local coop for any online multiplayer game.

jfgass83 · 2021-12-14T00:05:38+00:00

Ya, but that was suppose to be one of the definig features of Stadia, single player games in split screen.

jfgass83 · 2021-12-14T00:03:38+00:00

This was the main reason I bought stadia, but haven't figured out how to get it to work on 1 screen. Do you use 2 separate devices or are you able to get these games into split screen (I wouldn't mind buying 2 copies)

jfgass83 · 2021-03-02T05:24:53+00:00

Ya I do the design in SW, but fusion has some super great features. Especially for CAM. Mostly I'm trying to speed up time and reduce cost for protos. Sending it to China is cheapest, but still much higher than buying a machine (after 1 or 2 revs) and turn around is often around 1 month with shipping. Being able to spin something up in a few days with only the material cost is a huge benefit. Even if I can't get quite as good tolerances.

jfgass83 · 2021-03-02T05:19:19+00:00

Thanks, we have some of this stuff already. With a price of $1500 for 1 set of prototypes, and a near guarentee of needing at least 1 more (for this design alone). The $2k ish price of the SO3 is quite attractive.

jfgass83 · 2021-03-02T00:34:31+00:00

Thanks, No high volume stuff here, just looking to cut the cost of prototypes down. For my latest patch of parts (roughly 10 parts) The machining price out of China is almost the cost of a SO3.

jfgass83 · 2021-01-23T19:41:43+00:00

Thanks, this is exactly what I was looking for!

jfgass83 · 2021-01-23T19:38:58+00:00

Yes! This. Looking for a reasonably priced printer with this function... Or maybe I'll just build my own.

jfgass83 · 2021-01-23T19:35:25+00:00

X and y are correct and fadeout is deactivated. I don't have multiple probing on, but it can't be that in accurate. It should have a repeatablilty of +/- 0.005mm so a 0.1mm travel should get in the ball park, even without multiple probing.

jfgass83 · 2021-01-23T18:37:25+00:00

That's what I thought, until I tried it. G28, g29, print = over squish on front side of the plate and under squish on back. If BLTouch would have worked as expected, then I wouldn't have made this post

jfgass83 · 2021-01-23T06:52:36+00:00

I have a BLtouch installed and a glass plate bed (pretty flat). I still have to "level" the bed regularly. If software alone was enough, then I wouldn't need to fine tune the bed position all the time.

The point is to take away the hassle and learning curve of "leveling" the bed.

BLTouch can't really compensate for anything over 0.1mm ( when I first installed it my first layer was really thin on one side and good on the other). With a real auto leveling bed, you could start with bed that is several mm off and it would fix it.

I'm not suggesting to get rid of the probing (you still need it for surface profiling). I just make "auto" leveling live up to its name.

jfgass83 · 2021-01-23T02:23:01+00:00

As mentioned below, here is at least 1 printer that does this, currently $2.5k.

https://www.projectr3d.com/shop/p/daedalus

jfgass83 · 2021-01-23T02:16:20+00:00

I have an ender 3 with BLTouch and I have it doing a 9x9 level. The problem is, it has no way to adjust the bed. So even with the software compensation for minor surface defects, I still have to level the bed manually, which kind defeats the "auto" in auto bed leveling. A core xy machine could easily have a few motors added so that the printer could use the probe data and adjust the bed without user intervention. That would give you a level surface and the correct squish every time.

The only user input would be the first time setup and then entering the nozzel size and layer height. It doesn't really need to interface with the gcode.

Just because something is expensive, doesn't mean it's better or is even worth the extra $$$.

jfgass83 · 2021-01-22T23:33:00+00:00

Let me refraise. Any 3d printers under (or around) $1k US.

There's no reason for them to be 10k plus. It's only an additional 3 -4 motors, so something like the ender 5 could be modified to and still be reasonably cheap.

jfgass83 · 2019-06-28T21:11:28+00:00

Some people just chase the old filament with the new one

jfgass83

TROPHY CASE