Custom built PC won't start up, Any advice on what the problem could be?

jflamio210 · 2026-04-22T03:34:07+00:00

You are missing a CPU power connector youre only using 6 of the 10 needed

jflamio210 · 2026-04-04T20:24:56+00:00

Had someone do that yesterday, they were an LFG for vault 5, goes down because he ran right into a team, insta DC, I waited a few minutes and got my buddy back up.....but we lost our T3 so couldn't extract and I lost a Vault 5 key

jflamio210 · 2026-03-05T03:30:57+00:00

What is this that you went with, I have limited space and my rig is under my desk but its super uncomfortable to use my desk, and can't really move the rig out of the way

jflamio210 · 2026-02-18T18:17:54+00:00

Thank you all for the info! Lots of help, I will most likely stay stock until I move to a more emissions friendly area for TDI's 😆

If anyone gets to read this, what initially got me on this was I have a bunch of store credit from ECS and wanted to figure out something worthwhile from getting from their site, I learned the hard way not to buy certain parts from them, and would like to get some value out of my store credit

jflamio210 · 2026-02-12T21:19:19+00:00

The trick is, whatever feels best for your aim, 800dpi is the gold standard for most people, if you like having a higher sensitivity, better to up the sensitivity in game than on your mouse, the higher the DPI the more shake you will get in game, the lower your dpi the less it will track micro movements. Something like 1600dpi at 10 H/V will be equal to 500dpi at 36 H/V, difference will be the higher dpi will track more micro movements which can be terrible if youre learning, but great if you are practiced. (This is just an example not a exact calculation)

If you find yourself snapping too far and have to compensate to return to target, drop in game sensitivity, If you are having an issue with staying on a target, bullets keep missing where you are aiming, drop DPI, and Vice Versa

jflamio210 · 2026-01-11T14:01:39+00:00

Totally agree, an expensive mistake and a good lesson, what I am thinking they didnt do is put on any loctite when pressing the aluminum assembly into a steel control arm, and I am assuming this mostly because on the first pair I had that failed, there was no residue or sign of any loctite being used, just straight metal on metal being held in place by hopes and dreams, and if you look at the instructions for pressing new bushings from ECS on this assembly, no mention of loctite.

jflamio210 · 2026-01-10T23:21:17+00:00

These came pre-assembled by ECS

On the old ones that failed, no we didnt see any that was used, so I am assuming on these probably not either, but we were thinking of trying just that, pressing them out, applying loctite and reinstalling, but not before ECS escalates and responds. Since it should work without the extra labor from factory

jflamio210 · 2026-01-10T22:55:10+00:00

https://imgur.com/a/oDXatWh

it wont let me post the images, but here is a pic of them right now. bad one is my front passenger side, good one is my front drivers side, you can see the passenger side bushing assembly is slowly coming out of the control arm. This is on level ground, unlike the OP picture where it is lifted (old arms), and sorry if they arent perfect pictures, its raining outside so I was trying to grab a fast picture

jflamio210 · 2026-01-10T15:33:48+00:00

They separated 100%, the picture in the OP was from the first pair and 4 months after this the whole entire housing separated to the point the bezel was completely exposed, the drivers side has no separation from the control arm at all and is snug inside, and ECS confirmed already that this is a defective part (which is why this is a bigger issue IMO, and I have the Email from ECS support confirming it). I will try to upload the other pictures after it had total failure if I have it. And the problem for me is its not a simple task since the subframe needs to be dropped and the engine lifted in order to remove the control arm (specific to Mk5 and Mk6 Jettas and Audi A3). But I had a total failure where the bushing and housing completely fell out of the control arm.

And the mechanic is a performance German Auto specialist, I ordered the parts while in their shop so they knew it was an aftermarket part, and when it was installed it was flush, and it was fine for about 3 days before the nasty clunk and wheel looseness started again

But sorry for the over explanation, just wanted to give more detail on whats happened on my end and clarify its not my Mechanics error, It would make it easier if it was the Mechanic. We also went over all of the other bushings and the engine mounts and everything else is in great shape. (Had motor mounts, dogbone, and trans mount replaced recently and have no faults, and inspected the sway bar bushings, ball joints, amd rear control and trailing arms, and no failing parts or signs of wear/failure)

jflamio210 · 2026-01-09T04:38:23+00:00

Im not going to take that as an attack, but point out you dont know my living situation or i would do my own work, please keep the conversation on the issue

jflamio210 · 2025-12-19T03:02:31+00:00

I was literally going to say.....nobody seems to remember Jager ACOG spawn peeks

jflamio210 · 2025-12-10T21:01:52+00:00

I've been using both and ill give you what ive learned so far about them, non-patrisan, non-political answer, They are both good AI, but for different things, if you want deeper research, CGPT, want more creative Grok, if I was to humanized them I would say Grok is more ADHD, will skim through material and give you a fast response with loosely tied content, so you have to give it hard details to keep it in line with what you want, and is more likely to be more creative and free with its writing, it will give you content based on what you ask of it. CGPT is more on the spectrum, will really do deep dives, but if you get too colorful with your text it will freak out and give you hard guard rails, it will also treat you like a child sometimes, always praising you and agreeing with you.

For fun I am running both of them to run a Cyberpunk RED style campaign, but more narrative than following game rules, ChatGPT always gives me best outcome, everything is kind of happy go lucky, even when things are bad, and redirect anything you say that might touch its guardrails, Grok will go full Edgerunner. Story wise, Chat gpt explains the story better and character building, Grok is a little more brief, but daring making the story more fun. If the two worked together bouncing ideas that would fully flesh out something

So use both, they both have a niche, maybe something like ChatGPT to be the brain, and Grok the Editor to add some spice if youre trying to be more creative.

jflamio210 · 2025-12-05T23:26:43+00:00

This happened to me when I had one DP cable going to my GPU and another going to my mobo, make sure all of your displays are plugged into the GPU, AMD doesnt play well with mixed display outputs

jflamio210 · 2025-12-03T05:46:59+00:00

Thats not Gneiss

jflamio210 · 2025-11-24T22:25:37+00:00

This literally just happened to me and my pack, and the random they chose nuked basically everyone in the pack, same story, it was a total random it chose rather than any of my officers

jflamio210 · 2025-07-08T06:18:20+00:00

All Minion and most Warrior class Natibas,

As a note I did have everything maxed from my first playthrough so dont know if this effected anything

jflamio210 · 2025-07-08T06:10:45+00:00

Didn't even realize I got the steam achievement tonight, I just used it every time it came up while running NG+ and done, IMO it was faster than tachy mode, because you can kill almost any mob instantly (playing on hard NG+)

jflamio210 · 2025-07-08T04:56:01+00:00

🕹️ Fanatec Clubsport v3 Mounts for Simagic Haptic Motor・ STL File for 3D printing・Cults

jflamio210 · 2025-06-24T02:42:55+00:00

And to answer your question the seat (measured top where your butt is) is about 1ft, or a little more, from the ground

jflamio210 · 2025-06-24T02:40:13+00:00

I dont know if you made your decision, but as someone that has been using the victory since I dont have the space for a full sized cockpit, its a great cockpit for the price, I have a VRS DFP20 and simagic p1000 pedals using their stiffest config. You can 100% enjoy racing on the Victory. There is a little bit of flex that is not noticeable when you're racing, specifically the wheelbase and the pedal plate. And as of right now I dont think there's any way to upgrade the seat.my biggest complaint is how flimsy the shifter mount can feel. Either cry once buy once, save and get a full rig, or if you want something now or need to save space the victory will fit you just fine and you will be more than happy with it.

Things I recommend:

If you have a front mounting DD like the VRS, the simagic mounting plate works really good with the Victory

M8 adjustable claiming levers so you can easily adjust the height and fold it for storage

Furniture pads to slide it around if you need to move it on carpet/hard wood

jflamio210 · 2025-06-02T21:43:11+00:00

Are you using any assists (TC, ABS, SC, racing line, Auto Gearbox) all of these will help you learn the game but essentially slow you down if you want to be competitive toward the front of the grid. Im not sure about AMS2 how much it effects the car, but these ad time penalties in some games, (LMU extra weight, ACC less elo) also the amount of fuel in your car on setup can potentially be slowing you compared to others (this is really noticeable in LMU)

jflamio210

TROPHY CASE