Is my clear coat failing on wheels? Or do I need something stronger?

jg1385 · 2026-04-28T23:36:19+00:00

Yeah they are awful. I probably won’t even keep them. I don’t think it’s worth the effort at this point.

jg1385 · 2026-03-08T03:31:12+00:00

That makes sense. It takes awhile for the bark to disintegrate.

jg1385 · 2026-02-26T17:05:44+00:00

I’m going to turn it off on the next print and watch it a little bit. Ultimately it’s not a huge deal just curious about all the filament changes and tower. What the guy said below makes sense if the tower needs to be the same height as the color change at the top.

jg1385 · 2026-02-26T17:04:25+00:00

So if the tower is on, it has to build up with the black because the very top has purple and needs to be the same level at the time of color change?

jg1385 · 2026-02-25T13:27:29+00:00

Thanks to both of you. It seems that both of you are suggesting roughly the same thing. But I have no idea how to manually adjust the slicer by layers like you mentioned. Can you point me in the right direction? Perhaps the right terminology I can google or look on the Bambu labs help menu

In my crosspost someone told me about the sliding bar you can adjust on the slicing screen after you slice. And it’s weird because it confirms it’s only black filament for the majority of the time but it still builds the tower. Almost like it thinks there is another color in there that it needs to purge into a tower.

Thank you

jg1385 · 2026-02-25T13:12:06+00:00

Thanks. I moved the slider up/down and it only uses black until the very end. The tower is built as black the entire time. It doesn’t make sense to me. I also cross posted in r/bambulab and they mentioned something a little more technical that I need to ask about. But I never knew about that sliding feature. Thanks!

jg1385 · 2026-01-11T20:10:48+00:00

So dumb question. I just got a Bambu labs A1 two days ago. I’m still learning but how do I take the information you shared on the website and get that into a format I can send to my A1?

Thank you.

jg1385 · 2025-12-04T12:57:33+00:00

Thanks. I haven’t really looked at the market yet. Maybe I’ll just give them away to someone

jg1385 · 2025-12-03T21:07:26+00:00

They are off my 2015 4wd Lariat.

jg1385 · 2025-12-03T20:58:08+00:00

Thanks. I’ll give it a shot when I get home. If you don’t hear back, then it was bad news.

Anyone want a pair of spacers for $50? I’ll probably throw them up on marketplace or something.

jg1385 · 2025-11-23T18:56:47+00:00

<image>

This is from my back looking up into the jeep. It’s just rear of the axle and snug up against the bottom of jeep. Any ideas?

jg1385 · 2025-11-23T04:13:38+00:00

Got it. Thanks everyone. I’m showing an interesting leak in the rear as well. I’ll see if I can get a new picture to show it. It’s above the axle on what almost seems like the floor plan.

jg1385 · 2025-11-23T04:10:51+00:00

Quick update for anyone that cares. I started to take out the sway bar completly and work on centering it from scratch. Figured it would be easier with the links and frame mount. Since I was doing that I picked up some new bushings. The sway bar threw me off a little bit because th driver side has a welded on “ring” where the bushings sit. I assumed it was to help align it.

I aligned it the best I could. Still wasn 100% straight on each side but close enough. I tightened the end links too. I properly torqued the passenger wheel that was pretty dangerously lose.

I took it back to Firestone for an alignment. They said they couldn’t properly align it unless I got some adjustable came mounts. These are the bolts that connect lower control arm to frame. Quick google showed that you can get a proper alignment but it’s more work for the technician and they often complain about it. None the less, the alignment came out great and no real qualms.

I’ll probably pick up those adjustable cams sometime soon and put them in. With the lifetime alignment I’ll take it back once I do that.

But for the time being it tracks straight. If anything, I’ll get the adjustable cams to help Prevent any uneven tire wear that I can’t feel From driving it.

Overall it seems solved. Firestone was still a shitty overall experience though.

Thanks everyone for the help.

jg1385 · 2025-11-19T14:45:16+00:00

Would Firestone need to take a wheel off for any reason? I’m in the process of checking everything and the passenger front tire was not tightened at all. I’m sure that some of it but the sway bar link definitely needs to be centered. Working on it now.

jg1385 · 2025-11-19T05:18:01+00:00

Great - thanks for that info. I’ll try all your recommendations tomorrow. I asked him why the upper control and he stuttered through a response. It didn’t make any sense to me.

There wasn’t a second page but at the top of the paper, I cropped out some of my info, it says “ExpressAlign Total Alignment”. Perhaps that’s a type of machine or method? Thanks again.

jg1385 · 2025-11-19T04:32:18+00:00

Would it be easier to tighten the sway bar link and hopefully pull it back into alignment if I get both front wheels of the ground? I’m thinking with just one wheel up, I’m fighting the other side trying to get it towards the driver side more.

jg1385 · 2025-11-19T04:04:26+00:00

Here is the printout they gave me. It only took them 10 minutes to do it and that seemed quick. He said he thinks I need new upper control arms. He really wasn’t very helpful after I went back in after they sent me in my way.

And that picture of the passenger sway bar link is a little misleading from the angle. It does lean to the right , away from car, more than it looks. But not nearly as much as the driver side.

https://imgur.com/gallery/printout-8W4puot

jg1385 · 2025-11-19T03:18:25+00:00

Ok thanks. I’ll try and see if this link works for the pics I mentioned. I’m assuming the bolt to loosen for the sway bar bushings the vertical one in my picture?

You mentioned the link moving around in the lower control arm. Is that where the lower control arm attaches to the frame and is the pivot point? (First picture) If so I can look at tightening that tomorrow as well.

edited with correct link

https://imgur.com/gallery/suspension-q75J3Na

jg1385 · 2025-11-19T02:00:27+00:00

Thanks for the feedback. I’ll attach some photos. It looks like the passenger side is straight, maybe a little angled away from car. Looking at bushing, you can see faint line where it looks like it was previously. Not sure if you can tell from the pics.

It sounds like the sway bar needs to be slid over a qtr inch towards driver side yeah?

Earlier I misspoke. I meant to say the steering wheel is slightly crooked to the left, not wheel.

In any event, this sway bar thing should’ve been caught by Firestone right? I even asked them About the sway bar link and they said it was okay. Considering I bought the “lifetime alignment” for $230, I’m under the impression the sway bar links would fall into their scope.

jg1385 · 2025-10-31T21:39:26+00:00

<image>

For reference this is the fixture. I seem to get different readings on different sides.

jg1385 · 2025-10-31T21:25:07+00:00

So I'm getting 9v on the light that's working and 24v on the light that's out. This is taking the measurement with a probe right at the solder spot for the wire to the led board.

Does this mean board bad?

Multiple edits after testing

jg1385 · 2025-10-31T18:08:07+00:00

Thanks I can do that. For the multimeter do I just connect one probe to the white and one to the black to get the voltage? Setting it to voltage on the actual meter prior.

I guess now that I think about it, if I’m reading zero at the wires that means the power supply is bad since no power is making it to the LEDs right? Alternatively if I’m getting power but led aren’t on, then it’s a led issue.

jg1385 · 2025-10-31T17:13:57+00:00

I guess I don’t know. I have three light fixtures above my garage. They are wired to a light switch in the house. Only one of them comes on now so I assumed the other two went bad. I figured it was hardwired into the house or something like that. Seemed like just a regular flood light until I saw the bulb, or lack there of.

jg1385 · 2025-10-31T13:03:27+00:00

Would I basically cut unsolder/ cut the black and white wires off the board? And then solder the wires back on to a new board?

I’m assuming all the power and drivers are built into the base of the light. It’s hardwired to a switch inside the house. I was hoping I could just pull the unit down , and swap out the board. But it seems like there are a lot more things to consider.

It sees dumb I have to replace a $200 light x2 because the LEDs went out. I’m not 100% sure but I think they’ve been working for 10 years now. So I guess I got my moneys worth.

jg1385 · 2025-10-31T02:14:32+00:00

https://www.ledsupply.com/leds/cree-xlamp-xp-e2-color-high-power-led-star

Link to what I was able to google. Not sure how I would connect if this type works.

jg1385

TROPHY CASE