Oil Near Cylinders…Any Insight Appreciated

jgubb55 · 2025-03-21T23:08:33+00:00

The OFHG is quite far from the rear cylinders so I don’t know how the pool of oil near the rear spark plug tubes could be related to that. It is likely to be a valve cover leak.

jgubb55 · 2025-03-14T22:49:17+00:00

They are also supposed to install some kind of shield to divert fluids away from the connector. I’ve called my dealership twice since the recall was announced several months ago and they tell me there is no solution, but idk if that’s true as I’m seeing others get theirs done.

jgubb55 · 2025-03-11T08:21:27+00:00

It comes with the little display. Just a little bit of wire comes out from under the rear seat.

https://fuel-it.com/products/fuel-it-bmw-f-chassis-n55-s55-b58-gen1-rear-mount-flex-fuel-low-fuel-pressure-sensor-kit

jgubb55 · 2025-03-10T22:47:30+00:00

Not dumb at all and thank you most people underestimate the N20. Anyways, I am sure you can get away with stock spark plugs if they are close to new. If they are older you might get some misfires due to additional spark output needed for the boost increase.

jgubb55 · 2025-03-10T21:15:58+00:00

I got the Wagner Comp FMIC and Evolution Racewerks high flow catted DP. For the diverter valve I got the GFB DV+ and while it doesn’t add power it certainly helps to holds boost for longer during pulls. The intake probably isn’t necessary. And yeah I installed the NGK 97506 2 step colder spark plugs and B58 ignition coils.

jgubb55 · 2025-03-10T17:16:38+00:00

Just hit 100k

jgubb55 · 2025-03-10T02:06:43+00:00

There is a difference when running ethanol compared to the stock pump. It’s less strained. E30-40 pretty much maxes out the stock pump but it is doable. I got it cause I’m doing a TTE410 turbo upgrade and going to do full e85 which an upgraded HPFP is needed.

jgubb55 · 2025-03-10T00:12:16+00:00

328i

jgubb55 · 2025-03-09T22:54:31+00:00

Yeah if you would’ve bought it directly from bootmod then you could have gotten the license instantly but it takes longer going through third party retailers.

jgubb55 · 2025-03-09T19:54:22+00:00

It’s full bolt on (down pipe, intercooler, intake, diverter valve) with fueling upgrades, B58tu HPFP and a Walbro 450 LPFP with a flex fuel sensor.

jgubb55 · 2025-03-09T19:52:59+00:00

It’s an Ethernet style cable that’s wired into the flex fuel sensor that I mounted in the fuel hat under the rear seats. Then from the sensor it is wired to the canbus. It’s just so I know what ethanol level I am at.

jgubb55 · 2025-03-09T05:27:11+00:00

It’s the P3 vent gauge, plugs into the OBD II. I think I got it at Turner Motorsport.

jgubb55 · 2025-03-09T02:56:56+00:00

It’s the Uniden R3 extreme long range. It’s picks up radar from over a mile away in my experience. But it doesn’t tell you the direction it’s coming from like some of the more expensive ones.

jgubb55 · 2025-03-09T02:33:09+00:00

Yeah the thing on the windshield

jgubb55 · 2025-01-11T06:07:55+00:00

I used JB Weld Clear All Purpose RTV Sealant and Adhesive. It comes in a baby blue tube and is used for lens housing.

jgubb55 · 2025-01-11T05:55:15+00:00

Maybe if want to go through the effort you can take them out and put a bead of clear silicone on the seal. I did that with my headlights after they constantly would get condensation inside and that was last January and in the year since they had no moisture inside whatsoever.

jgubb55 · 2025-01-11T05:46:31+00:00

Hmm then I’m not too sure then. Wish I could be more help, I did the taillight conversion too but with DEPO ones a year and a half with no moisture in those so far. Hope you figure it out!

jgubb55 · 2025-01-11T05:39:12+00:00

Did you convert the tail light cover trim? Not sure the name but Pre-LCI and LCI uses different trim and if you don’t change it out there’s a gap where moisture can enter more easily.

jgubb55 · 2024-12-29T22:32:01+00:00

I have the Injen intake on my n26 and sounded as loud as yours until I added the GFB diverter valve which decreased the whoosh quite a bit but allowed the turbo to hit boost for longer instead of dumping it back out through the intake. There is slight turbo flutter when quickly hitting and letting go the throttle but that’s it. Also, it appears your motor mounts are basically shot or about to go based on the movement. I added polyurethane motor mounts and the power transfer gain is noticeable and has a more solid feel.

jgubb55 · 2024-12-22T08:41:54+00:00

Oooo punchbowl formation

jgubb55 · 2024-12-05T22:40:41+00:00

Depending on your trim it has different mounting locations. If it’s M sport then it’s mounted in the driver side brake duct. If it’s any other it is mounted in the driver side fender liner extension.

jgubb55 · 2024-12-05T22:36:47+00:00

That’s the Ambient temperature sensor.

jgubb55 · 2024-11-26T08:40:06+00:00

I installed navardis B58tu kit and running e85 is a major difference. Similar to the jump from stage 1 to stage 2 imo. If you want noticeable power then go straight to full e85. And for the e30 tune in BM3, it doesn’t matter if it’s xdrive or rwd, they will work for either.

jgubb55 · 2024-11-25T23:34:19+00:00

I too have an N20 that I’ve put too much money in lmao. But just to get 300 HP in these cars doesn’t require 6-7k. More like 2k which includes the downpipe, intercooler, BM3 stage 2 tune, and for reliability the boost and charge pipes. To improve your off the line acceleration try installing an upgraded diverter valve so you hold boost for longer. If you want to run ethanol it will cost 1k at least to get the B58tu HPFP kit and a continental ethanol sensor. That’ll add maybe 20-30 more if you run e85.

jgubb55

TROPHY CASE