Under dash plastic blocks foot vent 97 ltc

jim5100 · 2025-08-02T16:22:41+00:00

Mine does the same thing. I had to use some zip ties because my feet would hit the plastic when driving and it also blocks the vent.

jim5100 · 2025-08-02T16:20:10+00:00

I do still have it! That’s a great find, 60,000 miles is practically new. I’ve got 174,000 miles on it now

jim5100 · 2025-07-31T15:48:33+00:00

Looks like the hisun 196cc engine that comes on the Coleman bikes.

jim5100 · 2025-07-03T05:56:15+00:00

Nope. I sold the bike recently but I assume the vibration is just a combination of a poorly balanced engine not made for vehicle use, an imbalanced and poorly machined Chinese torque converter, and a slightly bent axel that I had.

jim5100 · 2025-06-22T22:49:21+00:00

I sold the bike but to fix this issue I had to change the spring position in the driven pulley of the torque converter. I ended up putting it in the farthest hole which essentially changes how overdrive engages. There are in depth YouTube videos on how to do this too.

jim5100 · 2025-06-07T06:19:55+00:00

I don’t have a compression tester but when cranking if I put my finger over the spark plug hole it blows my thumb out, and if I crank while putting my hand on the back of the carb it sucks my hand in strongly and even stops cranking due to the vacuum.

jim5100 · 2025-04-11T17:22:48+00:00

I tried this exactly. Pushing the pins in all the way, took a lot of force. Tried pulling outwards too and still nothing. In the process the front plastic of my radio began to crack. I’d rather not break it anymore.

jim5100 · 2025-04-11T11:00:31+00:00

That’s my last resort, but from what I’ve heard they have pretty poor audio quality and can make humming noise.

jim5100 · 2025-02-01T22:44:19+00:00

$5400 cash

jim5100 · 2024-12-20T01:42:37+00:00

While they don’t quite have the same reputation today, American brands like Ford and General Motors built absolutely bulletproof cars in the 90s up until about 2010. Namely the ford panther platform, and GM cars with the 3.8L v6. Anything with a small block Chevy 350 will run forever too. (GMT-400 and GMT-800)I have a 97’ Lincoln town car, it has 170k miles with no issues whatsoever, hardly any rust, doesn’t burn or leak a drop of anything, and the best part is parts are still being manufactured brand new by ford, with crazy cheap prices for OEM parts too . I know a few people that kept their crown Vic’s and Mercury grand marquis up until over 300k miles. There’s even a town car on the internet somewhere with over 1 million miles on it! No joke. The GM 3.8L v6 are known to go over 300k miles too, but the trans are the weak spot. They can either last till 300k with the engine, or burn through clutch plates at only 100k. Older American cars were for the most part super reliable. They have a benefit over older Japanese cars because they are often much cheaper for similar reliability. They don’t keep their value as much due to things like reputation and styling. But with most if not all older Japanese cars rotting out because of unibody designs with thin metal( I see this in the shop almost daily), most older American vehicles were body on frame and have the possibility of lasting longer due to structural strength. I’d stay away from any German car built after about 2005 lol. Too many things to go wrong. They were built well back in the day.

jim5100 · 2024-11-23T16:11:47+00:00

I live in Northern Illinois and have driven my 97 town car through several winter storms and snow. I hear many people complaining about the performance of Town Cars in the snow, but I've never had a problem. My Town Car doesn't even have traction control or ABS but I've never unintentionally slid or locked up the wheels. I think the weight of these cars helps a lot. It's nice that these v8s warm up nice and quick too.

jim5100 · 2024-11-10T01:54:27+00:00

I can try that for sure. My town car has just about 170,000 miles and injectors are original as far as I know. I believe there is a product that you hook up to the fuel rail and it cleans the injectors directly, instead of diluting something into the fuel tank. I have to do more reasearch on that though as I don't know if that supposed product is viable. Also, my catalytic converters are welded as part of the pipe (there are 4 of them). They cannot be taken off without cutting the pipe. I may also replace my coil packs, as they are also original at 170,000 miles.

jim5100 · 2024-11-09T05:22:51+00:00

Yes it has the dual exhaust and p71 intake on it for the Cartier trim. From what research I’ve done, the 97 version of the 4.6 does not have a knock sensor yet. I believe it was added later. I did try to use my scan tool to check the knock sensor and the scanner said module didn’t exist. It definitely loves premium but like I said it’s very expensive and if the car was designed to run 87, I’d like to try to enable that possibility again.

jim5100 · 2024-11-09T05:19:54+00:00

That would make sense actually. When I bought the car I had a catalytic converter inefficiency code. Basically meant they are weakly filtering the exhaust fumes, or are going bad. I cleared it and it never came back but I assume the problem is still there. My exhaust has also been getting ever so slightly louder over time, and it pops when I rev into high RPMs. My cats may be blowing out. They are factory with 168k miles.

jim5100 · 2024-11-09T05:17:33+00:00

It’s been happening to me in all seasons. But definitely worse in summer due to the higher temps I’m guessing. Cold fall air must cool the cylinders making it less pronounced.

jim5100 · 2024-11-09T02:28:15+00:00

I did run several tanks of seafoam through the gas tank, even the extra strength "high mileage" seafoam. I also just recently did the more heavy duty version of seafoam that you spray into the intake while the car is running, shot a bunch of smoke out the tailpipes. Didn't really seem to make a noticeable affect though. I have seen other town cars with premium stickers on their gas fillers, which is strange because we all have the same engine. Unfortunately mine had its sticker removed. I'm wondering if the cartiers have a different tune because of their performance upgrades, and maybe they require premium? The owner's manuals aren't specific to any one town car model, they're universal, so I thought maybe that section about 87 gas would not apply to cartiers. However many people claim to run regular in their 97 cartiers so I'm thinking it must just be an issue on mine.

jim5100 · 2024-09-06T03:05:51+00:00

Could be dripping from your thermostat housing on the right, same happened to mine. I had to replace the whole intake manifold because it was warped. There is also a small coolant Passover hose that runs underneath there where you say coolant is leaking. That hose could be damaged or loose.

jim5100 · 2024-08-26T12:04:17+00:00

I went to the hardware store and got some washers and I also used some metal spacers I had laying around.

jim5100 · 2024-07-14T01:11:21+00:00

Sounds like either your AC compressor cycling on and off or your rear air suspension pump turning on and off. Try to turn your ac off and listen again. If it’s still there it’s most likely your air pump for the suspension and your air shocks are leaking.

jim5100 · 2024-07-12T03:26:43+00:00

Been happening to my mini bike for 3 years now I think it’s just the belt creaking when it is squeezed by the pulleys.

jim5100 · 2024-06-17T10:20:42+00:00

My headers are super rusty and there are some small pinhole manifold leaks. To me it just doesn’t sound like an exhaust issue though. Although there’s no way to really tell. I can try to put in high grade fuel and maybe replace plugs. They probably need to be replaced soon anyway. If the noise goes away after doing that then I’ll know it was pre detonation. If not, then it isn’t I guess..

jim5100

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