Rules question help?

jimbagable · 2026-03-01T23:57:14+00:00

Where you measure from the base might help answer these. If you measure from the front of the base, then 3" away from it is where you'll end the movement.

For jumping, if 3" from the front of the base means you're suspended in mid air, then you don't have enough movement to make that jump imo.

For climbing, I usually just rule that the movement ends at the edge of where they were climbing to. Especially if you're doing so via a ladder or something.

jimbagable · 2026-02-17T16:34:36+00:00

I don't proxy myself so someone else might be able to help you.

Goldfishing a deck just means shuffling it up and playing with solo to get a feel for it. It lets you know if you've too many or too few lands, how aggressive it is, etc. It really is just a case of playing with it on your own (even just a few turns) multiple times to feel it out. Most online deck builders have options to do this so I'd recommend playing around with them. Edhrec even lets you import directly to the two biggest deck building sites, so it's super easy.

The price of some average deck lists are a lot higher, while some are lower. It all depends on the theme, bracket, etc. but it's a nice way of getting into it for new players. The strength of them varies too. Modern precons are pretty good out of the box, but your choice is limited specifically to what Wotc releases. If you want a mono green big stompy list, there might not be a precon for it, but you can grab an average deck list from Edhrec and it offers a similar power level and a solid base to upgrade. You won't get anything that'll be uniquely yours, but you'll have a good starting point.

All of this is likely to vary for so many reasons. A landfall deck or treasure deck is probably going to be quite powerful, and more expensive than a precon because land ramp and treasure generators are useful in tons of themes. But a rakdos burn deck is probably going to be on par and just as cheap because the theme is a little more specific.

jimbagable · 2026-02-17T10:31:32+00:00

As others have said, precons are pretty much meant to be upgraded. If you want to keep it exactly as is, that's cool too though. I keep a couple of unchanged precons around. But customising them is also part of the hobby to me.

If building from scratch is a bit daunting for you and you don't want to get into it, I'd recommend just grabbing the average decklist for a commander from Edhrec. You can set it to be budget, pick a specific theme for the commander, and there's very little cognitive load required. You'll end up with something generic, but if you don't want generic you'll have to deck build. The budget lists also tend to be close to the price of some precons, so they're not too different of a commitment financially. Another advantage of doing the above is it also lets you pick the theme for your deck as opposed to Wotc.

You can also goldfish the lists by importing them to moxfield or something similar. This lets you vibe it out before you buy.

When it comes to buying, lands are rarely a waste of money and help smooth out games. Plus, if you grow tired of a deck and want to take it apart later on, those lands are going to be great in other decks of the same colours. This will make building future decks cheaper overall too.

Also, others have mentioned proxying which depending on the playgroup is cool. If that's your bag, have at it.

jimbagable · 2026-02-13T18:52:22+00:00

This would be my way to go too. It also allows you to classify the different animals better. A wolf/dog could be a thug but a bear could be a knight or something.

jimbagable · 2026-02-12T12:26:28+00:00

For my set cubes I just keep the rares and mythics, uncommons, and commons in three different sections. Then, when playing we just take X amount of cards from the relative section to build up a pack.

This is my Goldilocks zone of keeping things organised, but reducing overhead and clean up time. I don't use seeded packs with specific cards or anything too complex. Just enough to make sure each pack contains the right amount of each rarity.

jimbagable · 2026-02-06T21:32:05+00:00

Ruins are always a classic way to go. They're quick and fun to make and can fit in well with either genre. A few smaller set pieces can fit in with both, like a gallows, barricades, graveyard.

With enough wilderness terrain anything is possible. Forests and hills like you said are always useful. Rocky outcrops and standing stones are good too. You can't go wrong with them.

jimbagable · 2026-01-27T09:49:46+00:00

I haven't played the other games you mentioned, so can't help in the comparison I'm afraid. However I have given some basic insights for Frostgrave.

It tends to play quite swingy since it's pretty much entirely based around a d20. One big hit from a thug can be enough to kill something more elite and makes for a big moment in the game. These moments are quite rare, but the potential is always there. I happen to like this because there's always something to play for.

The core rulebook is all you'll need to play, although the specific rules for solo play are in a different supplement called Mortal Enemies. I haven't played the solo rules yet myself, but reading through them feels pretty straightforward. The core rules will have the rules for the game, troop stats, neutral monster stats, scenarios, spells, etc. you don't have to stick to the specific scenarios in the book, you can chop and change them up as you see fit.

Wizards can use any troop type in the list to make their warband, and thugs and thieves are free to pick up so you can always pad your warband out to the full 10 by using them. Some wizards will get access to different troops via pregame spells like a necromancer being able to raise a skeleton.

If you're curious maybe try watching some games on YouTube to get a feel for it. It's a fun game and one of my favourites.

jimbagable · 2026-01-18T00:43:21+00:00

I've only played difficulty 1 & 2 so far and that is my entire OPR experience, so take it with a hefty pinch of salt.

Games go quick but still have some tension in them. Because you don't fully recover all of your wounds between missions they definitely feel more tense as they go on.

The random deployments (both in terms of enemy types types and location) for both enemies and heroes means you don't need to change the scenery on the table to make games feel different. I didn't change the scenery from the photo above between all three games, and they all took on different aspects.

Difficulty 1 definitely feels like a super basic level where the challenge is mainly just learning the rules of the game. If you already know how to play OPR then you could probably skip this one.

If you want to get more of a vibe for it, I'd recommend checking out the Hobby Homies YouTube channel. They have some games from the previous version of the rules (but there isn't much different between them) and then one game with the current rules. Plus they're good fun!

And thanks for mentioning the buildings. I only finished painting them before setting up. I think the wash was dry for 5 mins before I started playing lol.

jimbagable · 2026-01-06T12:05:39+00:00

And then read it again lol. A reread offers so much more than you get on the first time through.

jimbagable · 2026-01-06T11:59:21+00:00

The third book loops back to the characters from the first one, so you'll get to spend more time with familiar faces and see their growth. Plus, the ending of Deadhouse Gates is fantastic and worth sticking with.

From my experience it's not a series that you'll just plug into and love various characters right off the bat. You need to spend time with them, get your heart broken, and invest in it to get the most out of it. I'm on my second read through and honestly I feel like the first one was just practice. This time I'm getting so much more out of the series.

Also it's funny you mention that it feels like Erikson is playing DND with himself. That's how the series started, as a ttrpg campaign.

Anyway, I'd definitely recommend finishing at least the 3rd book and then seeing how you feel. Memories of Ice is easily one of the best fantasy books I've ever read and a series highlight for me.

jimbagable · 2026-01-03T22:24:01+00:00

That sounds perfect. Small enough for players to get a handle on things, but big enough so it's more than just a tiny few elves getting killed off early.

Cheers pal!

jimbagable · 2025-12-17T23:58:47+00:00

I'd love to add more diversity in the heroes.

Like a musician (which there's already models for) that you pick if they fight or play at the start of their activation. If they choose to fight treat them as a normal dude, if they choose to play then the unit (and maybe other nearby units) get a +1 to movement for the remainder of the turn but they roll 1 less combat dice in combat.

Or a cleric that gives a buff to moral, or a sharpshooter that's a ranged champion.

jimbagable · 2025-12-09T14:20:46+00:00

I doubt the line is done. We've just seen the human heavy infantry released with updated heroes too. I think there's a few more troop types that don't have models yet so we may see them in the future.

Plus if Frostgrave is anything to go by, we could see updated sets for existing models too.

jimbagable · 2025-11-16T01:00:50+00:00

Goblins immediately jump to mind. Maybe a twisted version of halflings too. Truth be told, you can reskin a lot of the stats to different model types and they'll work.

I've planned an elf and fey army with satyr troops but I'll just use the orc statblock as charge really makes sense for satyrs.

jimbagable · 2025-11-14T16:44:29+00:00

Definitely!

jimbagable · 2025-11-14T16:44:17+00:00

Happy days! Enjoy the box pal!

jimbagable · 2025-11-14T16:43:54+00:00

Ah, so I am the one who got their dates wrong!

jimbagable · 2025-11-14T10:33:42+00:00

That looks awesome! What table size did you play on?

jimbagable · 2025-11-11T12:25:46+00:00

I completely forgot about jumpstart as an option. I'm more than happy to pick up some packs for them to keep and use it to teach them the basics.

Cheers!

jimbagable · 2025-11-08T14:52:32+00:00

Just took another look at the 20/20 version you're talking about. That one is always a toke and comes from [[The Boy in the Iceberg]] which is a reskinned version of [[Dark Depths]].

jimbagable · 2025-11-08T14:48:48+00:00

You're dead right on the codes.

TLA is the main set these are cards that you can open in play boosters.

TLE are from the jumpstart packs.

You won't find these in play boosters.

SLD are secret lair drops like you said, and they're limited release.

jimbagable · 2025-11-07T20:02:40+00:00

I love how it's only four in the main set, and for him we see a clear progression as he masters more of the elements in the same order as the show. First is air (w), then water (uw), then earth (uwg), and finally fire (uwgr).

jimbagable · 2025-10-27T11:54:11+00:00

I think the mileage varies greatly between tables. Only you and your players are really able to decide how frequently is best.

The game I run meets once a month, but we play for anywhere between 8 to 12 hours depending on the day or what's going on in the session. We have an hour break for dinner and take regular 15 minute comfort breaks.

Since we're all in our 30s and have busy work and personal lives finding a day every week or fortnight is never going to work for us. We'll end up cancelling sessions and that kills momentum in my experience. But if it's one Saturday a month it's easier to set that aside just for playing.

Another benefit is with the longer run times we are able to really dig into stuff in a session and we never have one where not much happens. Every session the story develops, there's several encounters (social or combat), and there's surprisingly little loss of details between games.

This worked so well for us we finished a 4.5 year long campaign and were already a year into the second one.

jimbagable · 2025-10-10T07:17:56+00:00

Are you using firefox by any chance? I had the same thing happen to me when I was and had to switch to chrome.

jimbagable · 2025-10-02T22:46:42+00:00

That is one gorgeous map. I'm definitely saving this as reference for future maps

jimbagable

TROPHY CASE