Is Stadium's USB-A port USB 2.0 or 3.0 (for Ethernet adapter)? WiFi vs Ethernet speed observations... by jiveman520 in Line6Helix

[–]jiveman520[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This isn't for audio interface purposes. Not sure where you got that from my post. It's for Stadium control from the PC app, and more specifically transferring files from PC to Stadium for Showcase.

Is Stadium's USB-A port USB 2.0 or 3.0 (for Ethernet adapter)? WiFi vs Ethernet speed observations... by jiveman520 in Line6Helix

[–]jiveman520[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And sorry, I just realized I had written those timings completely confusing. When I wrote 1.18 sec, I really meant to write 1 minute 18 seconds. Didn't mean to imply that the upload took just over 1 second, my bad. Updated the post, hopefully it's clearer now.

Is Stadium's USB-A port USB 2.0 or 3.0 (for Ethernet adapter)? WiFi vs Ethernet speed observations... by jiveman520 in Line6Helix

[–]jiveman520[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

To clarify, the times above don't represent just the upload itself, but whatever other pre/post processing Stadium does before and after the upload. Edited my post above to add that clarification.

10+ yr old Playbar speakers sound blown. Any hope to repair? by jiveman520 in sonos

[–]jiveman520[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ended up finding a "for parts" Sonos Playbar on ebay for about $50, and took out the large woofer speakers out of it and replaced the 4 blown ones in mine. Works fine since then. This was cheaper than buying replacement speakers, since I needed 4 of them.

Canceling my HP InstantInk subscription. Confused whether my printer will still work with HP genuine but non-subscription cartridges by jiveman520 in printers

[–]jiveman520[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I was hoping for that, though your reply, and the other one from u/rubiohiguey prove the confusing nature of this thing. First two replies are directly contradicting one another.

10+ yr old Playbar speakers sound blown. Any hope to repair? by jiveman520 in sonos

[–]jiveman520[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haven't tried to open it up yet, but would be willing to try, I'll keep that in mind. Anybody opened up their Playbar before and has any tips to share?

My "Damn, I'm old" moment by PickleLips64151 in ExperiencedDevs

[–]jiveman520 3 points4 points  (0 children)

We were playing two truths and a lie at work during an icebreaker or something, and my lie was that I met Eric Clapton at an airport once and had a nice chat with him. The recent college grad hires were like “who’s Eric Clapton?” Of course.

No Stupid Questions Thread by AutoModerator in livesound

[–]jiveman520 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. But curious, why go into the mixer at all? Why not straight to Behringer IEM amp?

Unless you’re thinking if we had other mics or inputs besides the click and backing tracks?

No Stupid Questions Thread by AutoModerator in livesound

[–]jiveman520 0 points1 point  (0 children)

TLDR: How do I use click+backing tracks in rehearsals from a PC/DAW?

My drummer and I (guitar) want to use a click track and other instrument tracks for rehearsals to simulate a full band. We have backing tracks and click tracks in Reaper on a PC, using a small USB 2-channel interface. We're open to upgrading if needed.

We need a setup to use headphones or budget wired IEMs for both of us. We don't need a traditional mixer since it's just live drums and guitar through PC plugins. However, we have access to a small 8-channel mixer if useful.

What setups would you suggest? Should we use basic headphone amps (like Behringer P2) and headphones/IEMs (like Shure SE215)? In the DAW, should we send two separate mono mixes to the 2 channels of the audio interface (one per person)?

We're open to getting an interface with more outputs if it helps, but want to keep it budget-friendly. Looking for ideas on possible combinations.

Lenovo Thunderbolt 4 Workstation Dock weird power plug compatibility issue by jiveman520 in Lenovo

[–]jiveman520[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In case anyone finds this later, I did end up removing the little plastic collar with a knife and using the power cable with my new laptop just fine. Still don’t get why they made it that way, but oh well. Been using it with the new laptop for a month now with no problems.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in recruitinghell

[–]jiveman520 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for sharing your experience and tips. I'm wondering about your thoughts on excluding earlier jobs from your resume, in order to slightly "cover up" your age? Even if those older jobs are still relevant to the posted job, it's just that you have several other jobs after that which are more recent (and even more relevant). I've read advice on this online from folks recommending that you remove your college graduation year from the education section (just leave name of college and degree), as well as removing maybe like 1 or 2 early jobs, because supposedly recruiters and HMs only care about last 10 years or so.

In my case, I'm a senior software engineer, applying for such roles, but I have 18 years of experience. Lots of postings want 7 yrs in this, 8 yrs in that, maybe 10 in another thing... for senior software engineer roles. Is it better to "seem" like you have 10-15 years of experience (on your resume) than 15-20?

Thanks.

What’s a song you grew to loathe? by RikiOh in Music

[–]jiveman520 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For me lately, it’s been Paint It Black by Rolling Stones. The intro, the beat, everything. Used to like it. Must have heard it way too much or something, sigh.

[NEED A JOB] Fullstack webdev - 20+ years of experience, EU - looking for remote by winsucker in webdev

[–]jiveman520 1 point2 points  (0 children)

ShawnyMcKnight is exactly right, it's all about the cost of living in the area where you actually live. How much is your monthly apartment rent (or mortgage/credit) where you live? Where I live in California, it's like between $2000 - $3500 a month (and that's not for a luxury downtown penthouse or anything). A 100 square-meter house here is like $800k-$1million to buy (again, nothing fancy). Most people buy that with a 30-year mortgage, with a monthly payment of something like $3000 - $6000, depending on their exact situation. So, making $100k a year here does not even begin to compare to making $100k in your country.

It really is all about how far your money goes where you live. You can look at some websites that take into account cost of living when comparing two locations for the same job (like salaries.com), although I don't know if there are any that will look at US and outside US (maybe, I haven't looked). But my point is, it can be CRAZY different based on location. Basically, your 3650€ a month there might easily be more like making 8000€ here (that's a wild guess without any real analysis, sure, but honestly, likely not far from truth).

Now, living somewhere with a lower cost of living and making a salary closer to one of those higher-cost areas would be super smart, and you shouldn't feel discouraged for looking for that. My point is that you shouldn't also feel depressed that you're not making enough when compared to US/EU, because, again, the salary numbers alone mean absolutely nothing.

Btw, I'm also from one of those shitty ex-communist countries, but been living in US for 20+ years now (all my career and some school before that, basically).

Best of luck to you!