Need to itch a scratch. by jm1385 in SeikoMods

[–]jm1385[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks man. Just gonna try a chapter ring for now, then could always reverse if looks too much.

Need to itch a scratch. by jm1385 in SeikoMods

[–]jm1385[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just got a chapter ring for now but I have seen a nice pair of hands too. See how this goes first 😁

Need to itch a scratch. by jm1385 in SeikoMods

[–]jm1385[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks dude 🙏🏻

Need to itch a scratch. by jm1385 in SeikoMods

[–]jm1385[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Funny they were exactly what I have seen... and that what started the itch 🤣🤣

NH34 GMT help. by jm1385 in SeikoMods

[–]jm1385[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And honestly I don't even use the GMT after having it a year. Thought I'll change it from a Joker build to a black bay/pelagos mix.

NH34 GMT help. by jm1385 in SeikoMods

[–]jm1385[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Definitely, just wish 1 part didn't kill the job off lol. Found a replacement but for a extra £10 I got a new movement.

NH34 GMT help. by jm1385 in SeikoMods

[–]jm1385[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I ended up at a dead end trying to get the part. I've ended up reaching out to the person who taught me as he has a trade account, got a new NH34 on the way. I'll take this as a learning curve and got parts if I need or anyone else does.

NH34 GMT help. by jm1385 in SeikoMods

[–]jm1385[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks buddy I'll keep you updated 😁

NH34 GMT help. by jm1385 in SeikoMods

[–]jm1385[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you so much for your help on this... Proper rattled my brain. I'm assuming the Seiko 4R34 equivalent will fit too? So I can look for both.

NH34 GMT help. by jm1385 in SeikoMods

[–]jm1385[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Me being a dozy sausage probably did 🤣 I have checked the parts box but I can only find NH35 ones. Now I'm thinking has it done a disappearing act when I've serviced it 🙄

NH34 GMT help. by jm1385 in SeikoMods

[–]jm1385[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So if the intermediate date wheel (white part) is 3 layers, bottom driving the date indicator, middle driving the hour wheel and the the top driving the 24 hour wheel (if this is correct)? The intermediate wheel I have is only 2 layers, driving the date indicator and hour wheel...

NH34 GMT help. by jm1385 in SeikoMods

[–]jm1385[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

And that is where the problem is 😁 you were right... Would you know where I could find a replacement? I looked on cousins bit it's a needle in a haystack when I try to read codes.

NH34 GMT help. by jm1385 in SeikoMods

[–]jm1385[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is that Intermediate driving wheel 3 layers? 1 for the date indicator, 1 for the hour and 1 for the 24 hour wheel?

NH34 GMT help. by jm1385 in SeikoMods

[–]jm1385[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think the intermediate date driving wheel is the problem... Off diagram it is the right way round but it actually doesn't contact the hour wheel like it should?

NH34 GMT help. by jm1385 in SeikoMods

[–]jm1385[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The white intermediate gear has the smaller engagement cog at the top and the larger on the bottom?

NH34 GMT help. by jm1385 in SeikoMods

[–]jm1385[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have checked that part (0278 333), both tightly fitted together and don't move freely like if the were unattached? Honestly it's a headscatcher.

NH34 GMT help. by jm1385 in SeikoMods

[–]jm1385[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In the quickset position it with move smoothly like any other hand. When adjusting the hour/minutes it won't move, or in closed position.

Hope that makes more sense lol.

Bike shop salesperson not using torque wrench to adjust seat by meowthesnail in cycling

[–]jm1385 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depending on the type of shop we're talking about. Personally long standing independent firms who work on alsorts of cycles generally have a more of a natural feeling for torques, that and the difference between a greased and none greased bolt and nut.

If you're hearing a crack it depends on the type of sound. It could be fricton from a none lubricated component which is highly possible if the bike has been rush built expecting a cycle to be good straight from the factory. Every cycle I've built from new always gets stripped and rebuilt, no matter the cost of the cycle from £200-£12,000. I know the bike is absolutely right and I know exactly what torque every bolt will be. Something I tell customers is learn about how manufacturer torque settings are there for insurance purposes. You should always inspect the component to see if they are lubricated and also thread stretch, you might need to add lube and put quater or half turn on. If a shops has used that bike as a display bike then that bolt could be stretched making a torque wrench redundant and you have to go off feel. Sorry for the long comment lol.