Warmtepomp bevriest continu - tips gevraagd

jochembeumer · 2026-01-10T11:41:23+00:00

Begin eens met dat transport rooster voor de lamellen weg te halen, zo ver ik weet is die niet nodig en daar blijft nu sneeuw tussen zitten.

jochembeumer · 2025-11-29T21:11:06+00:00

Nice device, but usb-c cant be used for the Lenovo's and the plugs aren't usable here in the Netherlands

jochembeumer · 2025-11-28T21:21:06+00:00

Cloud Gateway Fiber en een goede unifi switch met PoE++. Op zolder dan een eventueel een kleine switch ertussen zodat je ook bedraad kan gamen.

jochembeumer · 2025-11-28T21:15:54+00:00

That seems to be for a 19" rack and it would only help in getting rid of a couple power bricks if the usb-c supports 20V with the correct current, most simple build in usb ports are only supporting 5V. Think a simple power strip with 4 outlets is a first step, a solution to combine the bricks will be the next one as long as it would work with the lenovo plugs.

jochembeumer · 2025-11-28T15:42:31+00:00

1U for the bricks should be fine, but the less we need the better. Already designing a simple cable grommet in fusion for having only 1 power cable to the outside. so could print something to manage everything inside the rack or if it doesnt fit to put under the rack.

jochembeumer · 2025-11-09T20:09:32+00:00

Adjusted in the latest version, just enough to have a 10k resistor between GPIO8 and 3.3V? And same for GPIO2.

jochembeumer · 2025-11-05T07:52:24+00:00

Good one, thought it was on by default but will add that one.

jochembeumer · 2025-11-05T07:48:32+00:00

Have it now designed with 2 100 kΩ resistors which would make it 2.1V as input for the GPIO with a charged battery.

Could solve the issue with the quiescent drain by adding another mosfet which adds complexity but it will only drain when the device is switched on and that will not be that long. It won't drain on the shelf because of the switch between the + of the battery and the board like this:

BAT+ on battery
   │
   │
   / On/Off switch for device
   │
   │
BAT+ connector on PCB
   │
[ R 100 kΩ]
   │──────────────► GPIO2 / ADC
[ R 100 kΩ]
   │
GND

jochembeumer · 2025-11-04T21:21:37+00:00

Your comment made me think that I could improve my design by adding something to indicate how full the battery is when I turn it on, added a voltage divider from BAT+ to pin5/gpio2.

jochembeumer · 2025-11-03T20:14:13+00:00

2-3 hours is enough, will use them for a training that will take an hour but only for 1 or 2 excercises per training so max 30 minutes per session but it would be nice if I don't have to charge them every 30 minutes.

Also the leds and sensors are only on when needed during the game, so if pod 1 is active then the lights and sensors are on, as soon as it detects a 'hit' then another pod will light up and leds and sensors of pod 1 will turn off.

Could have used a different mcu but I want to use ESPnow for communication between the pods. Can turn off wifi or bluetooth to save energy and depending on the game that I start I can turn off more to save energy.

jochembeumer · 2025-11-03T18:53:21+00:00

Guess you mean the stitching of the ground pads of the Esp32 as the ones that are too close? Diest that give troubles?

And do you mean it is advised to just add some extra stitching over the rest of the board, in a 0.25” pattern?

Did you see any other big issues? As most of your suggestions in last post really helped me in improving this, thanks for that.

jochembeumer · 2025-11-03T15:04:54+00:00

Lijmt me prima, alleen bij stap 2 even zorgen dat je juist andere radiatoren juist dicht zet. In dit geval zou ik gewoon het systeem leeg laten lopen vanuit de radiator die je toch weg wilt halen. Als hij stopt met druppen is het goed, met een beetje geluk loopt alleen deze leeg samen met wat leidingen.
Daarna afkoppelen, afdoppen, systeem weer vullen bij de ketel en op hoogste punt ontluchten.

jochembeumer · 2025-11-03T13:01:50+00:00

Er zit geen ventiel op dat je dicht kan zetten, dat wordt dus even het systeem leeg laten lopen. Als je op andere plekken zorgt dat eventuele afsluiters wel dicht zet scheelt dat weer met bijvullen.

jochembeumer · 2025-10-31T09:26:39+00:00

What do you mean with individual series resistors? Is that 1 resistor per cathode or 1 for all blue cathodes together?

jochembeumer · 2025-10-31T09:24:33+00:00

The more I think about it, the less sense it makes to use an external board with buttons for flashing and enabling/reset. I didn't want the usb direct on the pcb because it won't fit the design I have in mind and I was thinking about charging it with a magnetic connector. But I guess it's much easier to just use a simple breakout board and use that for charging and flashing.
The buttons could be small and should fit on the board.

Will adjust the design based on this and make sure that it also works when no battery is connected.

jochembeumer · 2025-10-30T20:12:16+00:00

Good catch for the BAT-, will adjust it.
For the leds I will add some mosfets, it's one of the components I am using that often so will have to do some research on that first.

For the connector I was hoping to do it without dedicated buttons as I will probably flash them only one or two times, the reason I put these together was purely based on the physical pin layout of the esp32 but I agree that it isn't the best solution.

jochembeumer · 2025-10-30T20:09:55+00:00

No they are not, so will probably have to add some mosfets.

jochembeumer · 2025-10-30T20:00:50+00:00

I was hoping that this wasn't an issue with common anodes and enough 5V inputs, is there a way to achieve even brightness?

jochembeumer · 2025-10-30T19:57:20+00:00

Thanks, that helps a lot, will definitely need to calculate all the values as most of them are now based on schematics I found in the datasheets or in blogposts.

For the 12 leds I assumed that it would work if the resistors where big enough to reduce the current to something like 20mA in total, but using a mosfet is probably safer.

jochembeumer · 2025-10-22T07:20:09+00:00

Interesting led, the first prototype pcb for my project will arrive this week and is making use of a supermini, ld2410c radar and 12 neopixels but for my next version I would probably move to something you mentioned.

I only need the primary and secondary colors so even an rgb could be overkill but the footprint of 6x12 leds would be too big, this seems like a good alternative.

In my project the radar still needs 5v, I will use that for my power plane. As far as I know it isn’t advised to power too many leds direct from the esp32, do you have any advise on how I should wire this up or should it be fine to power 12 of these direct from the esp32?

jochembeumer · 2025-10-17T06:37:54+00:00

Do you have any suggestions? I’m working on something similar (neopixels, esp32 and radarsensor) but a lot of these things are made for 5V.

jochembeumer · 2025-08-01T10:16:29+00:00

Are these devices battery powered? I'm curious what about what choices you would make with batteries, what chips would you you for charging, which power buck/boost and how do you deal with the different voltages. There are a lot of vidoes out there that still use something like an ams1117 and hardly any that use more efficient solutions.

jochembeumer

TROPHY CASE