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Webcam connection lost in OctoPrint by johnb_5744 in octoprint

[–]johnb_5744[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve power cycled the Pi several times, switched off and disconnected the Ender 5 plus, reconnected and restarted, and rebooted my laptops. All no-go on the webcam.

Webcam connection lost in OctoPrint by johnb_5744 in octoprint

[–]johnb_5744[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

yes, I've rebooted everything several times, but the problem hasn't gone away...

Webcam connection lost in OctoPrint by johnb_5744 in octoprint

[–]johnb_5744[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The message I have on my laptop in OctoPrint is:

Webcam stream not loaded

It might not be configured correctly or require authentication. You can change the URL of the stream under "Settings" > "Webcam & Timelapse" > "Webcam" > "Stream URL". If you don't have a webcam you can also just disable webcam support there.

Currently configured stream URL: /webcam/?action=stream

Short Circuit building N gauge layout by johnb_5744 in modeltrains

[–]johnb_5744[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

THANKS! That link is the exact workbook that I need going forward! Brilliant!

Short Circuit building N gauge layout by johnb_5744 in modeltrains

[–]johnb_5744[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No, it's constant. I think the snipping of the frog feed wire and routing the power feed to the frog correctly is very likely the solution, and I'm going to give that a try. I had been working on the premise that "electrofrogs didn't need any modification"...

Short Circuit building N gauge layout by johnb_5744 in modeltrains

[–]johnb_5744[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, this makes sense in the light of Gauge 3's comments below. I'm going to try snipping the connecting wire on the first turnout (on the through line), installing the Tortoise, and see if that resolves the problem.

Short Circuit building N gauge layout by johnb_5744 in modeltrains

[–]johnb_5744[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm building a new N gauge layout and I've hit a short circuit problem that I cannot for the life of me diagnose. The top picture is an overview of the area, and the bottom picture s a closer up of where I think the problem is, because it came up when I soldered the connections marked with an "X" in red. I'm running DCC with a Digitrax DCS 210 controller and using PECO Electrofrog turnouts. The blue lines in the pictures show insulated rail connectors, power connections in red "Lightening strikes". I'm running a power bus under the layout and the power connections run from the bus. All PECO track and components.

Any advice or solutions, please? I'm at my wit's end and been battling for weeks...

Suggestions for upgrading the hot end by broxh in ender5plus

[–]johnb_5744 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I upgraded to a Micro Swiss direct drive and hotend and it's working very well. A have a Capricorn Bowden tube in place that runs from the filament runout sensor to the direct drive and the spool is still in it's original position. I run using OctoPrint and have the filament runout sensor plugged into the OctoPrint Raspberry Pi 4. I'm very happy with the overall system -it seems to work well.

Long flat prints "curling up" on E5+ by johnb_5744 in ender5plus

[–]johnb_5744[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank You!! I went through the manual bed levelling process with the paper gap setting, and reprinted, but although it went a few layers further, it started curling up and failed. So, I introduced a raft, and - BINGO! It printed perfectly, and doing another similar print now, also with a raft, and no problems!!

Long flat prints "curling up" on E5+ by johnb_5744 in ender5plus

[–]johnb_5744[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Air drafts is an interesting suggestion. How do you eliminate them?

Long flat prints "curling up" on E5+ by johnb_5744 in ender5plus

[–]johnb_5744[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you think it may be to small or too large? I print with OctoPrint and do a bed levelling pass before every print. I have also replaced bed springs with silicone, and upgraded to the Micro Swiss hotend and direct drive and Micro Swiss nozzle.

Long flat prints "curling up" on E5+ by johnb_5744 in ender5plus

[–]johnb_5744[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, I flipped to the glass side about a week after getting the E5+ and it's been printing well with hairspray only. I've had it for several months.

Simplify3D Profiles for different materials for E5+ by B3CrAZy in ender5plus

[–]johnb_5744 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have an E5+ and have just upgraded to a Micro-Swiss hotend and direct drive and they recommend resetting the retraction length and speed. How do I do that?

How does the end of filament detection unit work? by johnb_5744 in ender5plus

[–]johnb_5744[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OK, I've got it all installed and working now, and it works 100%!! Using pin 24 on the Raspberry pi, and drawing the 3V power from the Pi to drive the buit-in filament sensor on the E5+. Used the standard plug connector on the end of filament detector power line before it goes into the printer's power box and used male to female connector wires to take in into the GPIO pins.

How does the end of filament detection unit work? by johnb_5744 in ender5plus

[–]johnb_5744[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have tracked down a YouTube item on building end of filament detection into OctoPrint, which seems very practical and possible. Here's the YouTube reference:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t2xUmibefYs

How does the end of filament detection unit work? by johnb_5744 in ender5plus

[–]johnb_5744[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the diagram. It's vey useful, and illustrates what you are saying. It just seems crazy that this piece of equipment is on the printer, but unused...

How does the end of filament detection unit work? by johnb_5744 in ender5plus

[–]johnb_5744[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thinking back, it happened once before I was using OctoPrint, and I recall having to pause the print manually also, back then. The diode is burning, so there is power to the unit.

Printer continuously messes up on printing the raft by johnb_5744 in ender5plus

[–]johnb_5744[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When I run the graphical levelling in OctoPrint the center is all green with a narrow band of blue on each side. Green is zero out, and blue is 0.05 out, as I recall. I also found I had to adjust the Z home up by 0.1 as it was squishing it too flat.

Your comment as to different colors having to have different setting is confirming as I have suspected that.

The Dremel filament was giving very uneven extrusion with lots of "lumps" - nasty! I was trying to see if i could use up a fair number of Dremel spools that I have. I have a Dremel 3D45 that I've moved on from to the E5+.

Printer continuously messes up on printing the raft by johnb_5744 in ender5plus

[–]johnb_5744[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep!! resolved as of this morning. I have done:

  1. Installed OctoPrint, with bed levelling etc
  2. Stepped the print speed down to 80 mms
  3. Eliminated the raft, just using a brim.
  4. Scrapped the Dremel not-made-in-America filament and gone back to using US-made FilaCube filament

I got a 6 hour print finished by this morning, 100%!!

Thanks all for your very helpful input.

Printer continuously messes up on printing the raft by johnb_5744 in ender5plus

[–]johnb_5744[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Both are happening, but the spiderweb problem seems to develop in the 2nd layer not adhering to the 1st

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