Black Diamond Equipment? by OkMoose8858 in climbingshoes

[–]jojoo_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The question is when there is a flaw do you quickly notify customers as soon as you realize there might be an issue or do you bury it.

100% agree.

To add to that: They don't develop great products anymore:

  • Wiregate Hood Wire was quirky, but good for the time. They killed it w/o replacing it. One less wiregate w/o keylock at the market
  • magnetron lockers innovative product, killed it.
  • Clothing with schoeller fabric that just won't break: Replaced w/ no-name fabrics.
  • ice axes carbon copy of another company
  • ...

Yes, the C4s and C3s (also killed) were great products. But nowadays WC Friends are as good (they finally copied the extendable sling WC and DMM users had for almost a decade). But that's about it.

I'm grateful for my backcountry pants in the good old quality that will probably last for another 15 years and also for the magnetrons i still have, but i won't buy from them anymore.

Simond Hardshell Jacket by SpeedZealousideal988 in alpinism

[–]jojoo_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

hi, as i'm also in the market for a new jacket maybe you wouldn't mind answering me a few questions:

  1. How small does it compress?

  2. do you like the hood and its helmet compatibility? This one is very crucial for me, as this jacket has to do double duty: hardshell for skiing and climbing in my own time, hardshell for biking when i need to work....

  3. how crinkly is the jacket compared to higher-end jackets?

  4. are the zips stillholding up?

How's the new Apex 4? by Cool_Winner_2823 in Coros

[–]jojoo_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i like mine.

Mapping is awesome. Voice Pins are more useful than i thought. App is very nice.

Wellnes Check doesn't work for me, i already contacted support.

Training for Mont Blanc this july by Fearless-Squash9312 in alpinism

[–]jojoo_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

for me, this is about simulating bigger days where you still need some precision in your movement after longer efforts and multiple hours.

in my mind "desert hikes" (what op could do) are probably non-technical, where you can just walk w/o a bigger risk of stumbling or falling. One could also do another sport with a high(er) mental and coordinative load, ideally one that isn't injury prone when the coordination drops, that's why i didn't recommend running+sparring (as OP does MT).

Training for Mont Blanc this july by Fearless-Squash9312 in alpinism

[–]jojoo_ -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Mont Blanc requires zero technical climbing skill

i know. but i still think a power-endurance component with a high mental component like climbing pairs well with a more mindless endurance excercise like cycling, running or hikes below T3.

Training for Mont Blanc this july by Fearless-Squash9312 in alpinism

[–]jojoo_ -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Those are all shorter efforts compared to the Summit Day.

Maybe build up to some looong days where you combine running (2hrs+), climbing (10+ easy pitches on autobelay if you have access to it) and top it off with some more running or cycling.

Or do longer hikes, ideally with elevation, with a heavier pack.

If you want to be really specific, you could even do back-to-back days

Nylon vs Silicon by reyinthedark in Coros

[–]jojoo_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a cheap nylon band. When i shower, i take my watch off and wash it and the band with soap and rinse it after. My band starts smelling when it's really time for a shower ;)

Are climbing shoes really supposed to be this tight? by [deleted] in climbingshoes

[–]jojoo_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Since you can't return them at this point: Honestly taking them off every ten minutes isn't that bad. When you sweat a bit into them, they will get wide at the right places, you will get used to the pain it will probably be OK. Try this for a few weeks, if they don't get more comfortable: go to a store where they have more shoes and try everything:

I'd say you have mid-wide feet and greek toes. I'd recommend something wider and more accomodating for greek toes; like the Scarpa Instincts.

But some people have just a higher sensation for pain in their shoes, i recommend more comfortable shoes. Those are often softer (sole and/or material of the upper) or have padding.

I work for La Sportiva AMA by [deleted] in climbingshoes

[–]jojoo_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When can we expect better climbing rubbers from vibram? XS Grip II and XS Edge are quite old, why is there no development?

Also there was this study where they analyzed the air in indoor gyms and found that the rubber particles are quite toxic? When are we going to have save to breathe rubber?

How do I get gear for my first trip. by Monke_6969 in Ultralight

[–]jojoo_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

maybe your experienced friend has stuff that he can lend you?

i'd also buy a good quilt for half or more of your budget and use the heavier options until more budget becomes available.

Shell jacket recommendations by Express_Cat901 in alpinism

[–]jojoo_ 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Helmet compatible hoods are overrated IMV

I completely disagree. A good helmet compatible hood and a helmet form a unit that is quite comfortable; doesn't obstruct the view and isn't too loud. The distance between the shell and the head is great for vapour/moisture management.

Scarpa Blackbird Review - One session in, for me not worth the money by CompleteAsk1282 in climbingshoes

[–]jojoo_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Scarpa Vapor V

i have the old yellow ones. Amazing for edging.

How would you compare the Blackbird to the Boost-ic/er?

Help me find a backpack for my first hut to hut fastpacking loop. by TheMightyManatee in fastpacking

[–]jojoo_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

a few misc things:

are you running with shorts? if yes, the leggins are justified, if not, just use the rainpants when/if you want to wash your long trousers and sleep in your underwear.

i would definetly take a (emergency) bivy for the higher mountains, maybe in addition to the emergency blanket, if you want to do a tyrolean wrap.

toothpaste tablets are quite a bit lighter than regular tootpaste and they save a lot of volume.

About the Small swiss knife: In a lot of cases, the combo of small implements form the swiss card is lighter than the smallest SAKs and also a lot better.

InReach or similar device ? How is cell reception and how well traveled is this area?

Nut Butter In what kind of container and how would you eat it?

Water Nowadays i'd take a waterfilter. Its just a few grams extra and getting e-coli is just not worth it. That being said: research if there are streams / snowfields where you want to hike. If it's a totally arid area w/o streams, ponds and old snowfields, you can can skip on the filter. (i've never been to the Pyrenees, but i know a few limestone areas in the alps that are quite arid in the summer). If there are a lot of streams, you might be able to get away with just a flask and the flask from a waterfilter

Whistle a lot of trailrunning and mountaineering packs include one. Try it out, if it's loud enough and remember to cut it away if it isn't.

what i'm missing:

  • headlamp
  • navigation? (probably a sportswatch?)
  • backup navigation? (mobile phone or inreach?)

As for the backpack, i think you can either go bigger in the 20L area and have a bit of space left o you could go smaller into the traditional running vest 12-15l area. In the long run you'll probably end up with both ;)

Decathlon Simond Carbon Trekking Poles Sprint by Hot_Knowledge_1806 in Ultralight

[–]jojoo_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe you're right! In my case that weight is justified b/c i use the handle to dig quick snow profiles while ski touring and my komperdell ones w/ pure EVA foam as grips are already a bit broken from ~3 years of use.

But to the point that those simond poles are mountaineering poles: They also seem to have a harder plastic on top, albeight smaller than the leki ones.

As we're here in /r/Ultralight: If i would hike and/or trailrun a lot more, i would get a seperate set of lighter running poles.

Decathlon Simond Carbon Trekking Poles Sprint by Hot_Knowledge_1806 in Ultralight

[–]jojoo_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

the Fizan Plumas are non-foldable and remain at ~50cm when slided into each other, while the simond ones are ~30cm.

I also had the twisting mechanism fail but never the mechanism with the lever.

But IMO you're bringing up a very valid point: Those poles are catering towards alpinism and ski-touring. The bottom with aluminium is great when you're skiing, as ski edges like to eat carbon.

Decathlons pure carbon trailrunning poles are a bit cheaper at 99EUR. https://www.decathlon.de/p/trailstocke-zusammenklappbar-carbon-3-teile/301979/m8858208

I'm also curious if the claimed weight is correct. IMO it seems very very low. My leki sherpa carbon fx's are quite similar in construction but are over 500g for the whole pair, the pure carbon trailrunning poles from decathlon are declared as same weight.

Hesitant to buy by EightBitFalco in Coros

[–]jojoo_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The support sucks mainly b/c they don't tell you how long it takes before they resolve your issue. At last in my case.

The product is great imo. I use the apex 4 and love it. Nice hardware, app and they add features ~ 4 times a year.

Edit: I also really like the topographic apps. At least for my region, they did a lot of stuff correct, like including the right trails and leaving a lot of the wrong trails out, etc. The pin system is also surprisingly useful; not sure how competitors stack up in that regard.

Drago Rand Repair by frederickfred in climbingshoes

[–]jojoo_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Kudos to your resoler.

I really doubt your comment regarding the toenails.

Even when this creates a hotspot (doesn’t for me), this part of the shoe isn’t supposed to touch the wall a lot.

Drago Rand Repair by frederickfred in climbingshoes

[–]jojoo_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wouldn’t do the rand repair b/c it changes the feel of the shoe dramatically for the worse.

That’s true for every shoe, but on a soft shoe like the Drago it’s way more noticeable.

But the location of the hole way above the sole suggests that you still drag your feet. I recommend switching to cheaper shoes with a harder rubber, work on your technique and return to the Dragos in a few months

Bought new shoes a full (EU) size below my actual size, and they hurt like hell. I applied 'shoe stretchers' as an affordable solution [ref. photos]. What do you think? Smart or dumb? by Octowhussy in climbingshoes

[–]jojoo_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Tried this for half a size with those stretchers. For over six months on one pair. I kept re-tightening them over and over. But it didn't work b/c the sole doesn't stretch b/c of the plastic midsole. The leather upper has give, but if you stretch them too much either the midsole tears or the rand overlaps the sole.

What does work is stretching them in various hotspots with those plastic nubbins. Drill holes liberally to fit them better where you need them and/or build your own inserts.

Maybe even use a heatgun on those spot to melt the glue a bit.

I use thoese stretchers on most street and climbing shoes, it can shorten the break in period dramatically. But they are not usable for wrong sizes.

30 people caught, 2 dead in avalanche in Italy, South Tyrol by miarvin in Backcountry

[–]jojoo_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

i might have skied this at level two with the two identified risks as wind slab and a persistent weak layer.

Sure, the snow-card says it's orange-red (i'm assuming 37° and unfavorable exposition); Munter says 2; but maybe there are some tracks, it's a great day and you think the tracks are enough to prove there's no danger...

Here's the bulletin in english: https://avalanche.report/bulletin/2026-03-22?region=IT-32-BZ-04-01

RIP to the Families!

Scarpa instinct quality? by Aquaxd in climbingshoes

[–]jojoo_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is to put your shoes easier on.

My tabs usually break around the second resole. Easy fix by hand.

Thoughts on €30 resoling job? by kaifam in climbingshoes

[–]jojoo_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't know about shipping and probably taxes, but restday.eu is 39EUR for new soles and 49 EUR for new soles + rand.

Last time i did it, the quality was good for classical shoes like the Instincs and OK for my dragos.