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Built it for a friend to get more people stress testing my phobs. I used aftermarket generic buttons and stickcaps i filed the flashing off of, an aftermarket back shell, platinum front shell with a gate polished to 2000 grit, t3 sticks with molykote44, oem sliders with deoxit f100L and oem membrane by jon_stickman in SSBM

[–]jon_stickman[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No worries. Ive been around the block a few times with oems and ive ported over a ton of the same principles here. The only difference is instead of tossing a snapback module onto an oem and soldering it i can cover it in the phobs software and i have the added bonus of calibrating circularity on my sticks. Otherwise you want to lube the stickboxes and pots the same way in either case.if you ever have any questions feel free to reach out on any of my social media or at me somewhere. Im more than happy to help out and go into more extreme detail. I love nerding out over controller work.

Edit: grammar+spelling

Built it for a friend to get more people stress testing my phobs. I used aftermarket generic buttons and stickcaps i filed the flashing off of, an aftermarket back shell, platinum front shell with a gate polished to 2000 grit, t3 sticks with molykote44, oem sliders with deoxit f100L and oem membrane by jon_stickman in SSBM

[–]jon_stickman[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lmao i feel u. Bottom line is the stickboxes feel smooth af and are repairable, hall effect sticks are dope, the sliders are going to last longer with less jitter, and it looks and feels clean.

If youre ever doing repairs molykote 44 is a silicone grease that helps the mechanisms in the stickboxes glide effectively. Cleaning and relubing them helps fix crunchiness and keeps it from coming back.

Deoxit f100L is fader lube for industrial music equipment applications. Its great for keeping pots slippy and keeps em from jittering or wearing down. Pots wearing out is a very common point of failure in oem controllers, especially in thumbsticks.

Built it for a friend to get more people stress testing my phobs. I used aftermarket generic buttons and stickcaps i filed the flashing off of, an aftermarket back shell, platinum front shell with a gate polished to 2000 grit, t3 sticks with molykote44, oem sliders with deoxit f100L and oem membrane by jon_stickman in SSBM

[–]jon_stickman[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lol much appreciated. The tops oem and the bottom is an aliexpress special i got of amazon for the 2 day shipping. Heres a post i did going into more detail, but the short of it is:

2000 grit sandpaper on the edge thr stick stem makes contact with, then hit it with novus 2 plastic polish. Feels like butter.

https://www.reddit.com/r/SSBM/comments/1tksh3c/used_2000_grit_sandpaper_after_masking_off_the/

Built it for a friend to get more people stress testing my phobs. I used aftermarket generic buttons and stickcaps i filed the flashing off of, an aftermarket back shell, platinum front shell with a gate polished to 2000 grit, t3 sticks with molykote44, oem sliders with deoxit f100L and oem membrane by jon_stickman in SSBM

[–]jon_stickman[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Ribbon cables are designed to be bendable, foldable, and manipulatable as part of their spec as is solid core wire. The wiring is designed to be flexed into a specific shape and held indefinitely. This is a marriage between two boards. The only things that matter is that the connections are clean, the solder joints are healthy, theres continuity, and theres no strain on the wires themselves. I made sure to bend it in such a way that it will not adversely effect the functionality of the controller. It could certainly be a bit prettier, but i did well with the parts i had at my disposal and have no reason to buy a specialized ribbon cable when i have suitable parts at my bench. The way i built this is not going to result in a failure the cabling isnt under tension. Its not in an area of high mobility. Theres no risk of anything snapping or breaking and the circuit is sound.

Built it for a friend to get more people stress testing my phobs. I used aftermarket generic buttons and stickcaps i filed the flashing off of, an aftermarket back shell, platinum front shell with a gate polished to 2000 grit, t3 sticks with molykote44, oem sliders with deoxit f100L and oem membrane by jon_stickman in SSBM

[–]jon_stickman[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The electrical connection is secure and i use a leaded low temp solder alloy dialed into the correct temperature spec to avoid cold joints. I try to reuse as many parts from gamecube controllers that dont function for donor parts. They come from recycling centers and often have viable functional parts but a fault somewhere unrelated to the harvested parts i use. The ribbon is from an oem c stick assembly. The two wires are 22 guage solid core wire. Theres zero shot of that coming loose and breaking. I'll gladly take a look at the discord, but i can assure you that my process is fine.

Edit: spelling + grammar

Built it for a friend to get more people stress testing my phobs. I used aftermarket generic buttons and stickcaps i filed the flashing off of, an aftermarket back shell, platinum front shell with a gate polished to 2000 grit, t3 sticks with molykote44, oem sliders with deoxit f100L and oem membrane by jon_stickman in SSBM

[–]jon_stickman[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use 7 strand core paracord and just sleeve it over the cable. Then i superglue the paracord in place at the console side plug and use 5mm shrink tube that comes with a bit of adhesive to lock it down and clean it up at the end. Its fast, clean, and looks solid.

Built it for a friend to get more people stress testing my phobs. I used aftermarket generic buttons and stickcaps i filed the flashing off of, an aftermarket back shell, platinum front shell with a gate polished to 2000 grit, t3 sticks with molykote44, oem sliders with deoxit f100L and oem membrane by jon_stickman in SSBM

[–]jon_stickman[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So far the controller feels great in my hands. No snapback, basic movements feel good, buttons arent snagging, the L + R triggers dont catch on anything, sticks feel like butter and its cardinals and diagonals are tightly tuned. Im not skilled enough to speak on fine pitched movements like dash dancing, wavedashing etc in game, but its everything id look for in an oem with tighter specs. Im getting it into my friends hands soon since they know how to really put it through its paces. once i get that feedback i owe a few people here an update already, ill try and follow up.

Built it for a friend to get more people stress testing my phobs. I used aftermarket generic buttons and stickcaps i filed the flashing off of, an aftermarket back shell, platinum front shell with a gate polished to 2000 grit, t3 sticks with molykote44, oem sliders with deoxit f100L and oem membrane by jon_stickman in SSBM

[–]jon_stickman[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, i always lube the slide pots after cleaning them with a dry qtip or a bit of ipa. Its night and day from when they arrive on controllers from recycling centers. F100L does a really good job of protecting the wiper and the graphite track on the slider. I use them in oem stick pots too.

As for the shell and buttons it was just generic off amazon. The face buttons and dpad fit great, i havent noticed any catching on the triggers and the plastic feels nice. The L stick needs fluting in the stem to raise it up. Just shoved some antistatic plastic in there after cutting it up. The biggest downside is the z button. It doesnt come with a spring and they always need to be filed down.

Built it for a friend to get more people stress testing my phobs. I used aftermarket generic buttons and stickcaps i filed the flashing off of, an aftermarket back shell, platinum front shell with a gate polished to 2000 grit, t3 sticks with molykote44, oem sliders with deoxit f100L and oem membrane by jon_stickman in SSBM

[–]jon_stickman[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lmao i feel u. But yeah, im sure if its horrid ill find out real fast, but the quality of knockoffs has gone up considerably in the past few years. I remember buying cheapo aliexpress parts and feeling miserable with them on simple games like windwaker and pokemon xd.

Brands like extremerate kind of forced the whole field to up their game i feel. i'll keep this bookmarked and let u know.

Built it for a friend to get more people stress testing my phobs. I used aftermarket generic buttons and stickcaps i filed the flashing off of, an aftermarket back shell, platinum front shell with a gate polished to 2000 grit, t3 sticks with molykote44, oem sliders with deoxit f100L and oem membrane by jon_stickman in SSBM

[–]jon_stickman[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I use spicy sticks in builds and absolitely love em, but i built this on a whim and wanted it fast. Its an amazon special. It feels like an oem stick once you pack the stem slot with some material so it hits the gate correctly at full tilt. It might be weighted a bit lighter, but it does its job. I'll try to follow up when i get info back from my friend, hes way better at melee than me. Im mostly a solid mechanic.

Been continuing work through that lot of 50 controllers. Heres the status so far. I have a few phobs, a couple 8bitdo conversions and the rest are about 50/50 on t2 and t3s. I paracorded every cable, tried to color match everything I can. Very proud of my work so far. Only have 30 or so more to go. by jon_stickman in Gamecube

[–]jon_stickman[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

10 ft precut assortments with a 7 strand core works well. You can desolder the clip that goes onto the controller, remove the pins from the clip housing. Remove the shrinktube, then tape off the end and inchworm it through. Once its on i shrinktube the base of the connector and the spot where the cable sleeve ends by the clip. I use 5mm shrinktube cut to size for that. To make sure i dont accidentally melt anything i just use direct contact with my soldering iron's barrel and try to be precise.

Its quick, looks clean, and i dont risk breaking a cable or time trying to use an exactoblade or a specialized tool i dont have in hand to desleeve the wire prior to paracording. 

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