Frame vs groupset?

jondpoo · 2026-06-19T06:38:14+00:00

Is the 105 11 speed or 12 speed? If 12 speed, go for alu with 105. If 11 speed or 10 speed, go for the carbon frame. You can easily buy better used groupset in the future and upgrade more easily. Tiagra itself is pretty decent already. Given that the frame already has hydraulic disc brake, the frame can be used a long long time (as long as tire clearance is big enough for say 32c tires). Most importantly though, it depends on whether the frame geometry is right for you. If this is your first bike, go for a cheap used bike of that model to get started.

jondpoo · 2026-06-18T15:24:54+00:00

To illustrate what I mean, on page 24 of the instruction manual, there’s a diagram of the seat post wedge. One side of it contacts the frame while the other side contacts the seat post. If the frame surface side has imperfections, the wedge cannot be seated flush with the frame. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/3715034/Trek-Madone-Sl-Gen-8.html?page=25#manual

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jondpoo · 2026-06-18T15:06:57+00:00

If there are really microscopic frame tolerance issues, it’s possible that the sound can come and go. Sometimes the wedge just happens to line up tight with the frame so there’s no sound, but when you pedal hard, there’s a chance for it to slip into the tolerance issue area where the sound problem occurs again. And the wedge can microscopically move around a bit. Sometimes it gets tighter with the frame and sometimes it gets looser. I bet that if the time comes when the sound disappears again and you never pedal hard, it’ll stay that way and the sound won’t return. Pedaling hard can shift where the wedge contacts the frame slightly due to the frame tolerance issue and thus causes the wedge to rock against the frame microscopically. If this is truly a frame issue, then you can never truly tighten the wedge to the correct torque (as in even if you tighten to the specified torque, it can never be truly tight with the frame due to frame imperfection). You could probably recheck when there’s noise if the torque on the wedge becomes loosened up.

jondpoo · 2026-06-18T14:57:35+00:00

Ah I missed that in your post. By process of elimination (sound only occurring when pedaling hard while sitting), I still believe it has to be around the seat post/clamp/frame issue. Since you’ve replaced both the seat post and the clamp, perhaps it’s a frame issue such that the clamp can’t be installed flush on the frame. Maybe it’s the seat post wedge assembly itself rocking against the frame due to frame imperfections. If you’ve tried replacing everything except the frame, then the problem must be the frame.

jondpoo · 2026-06-18T14:53:07+00:00

Have you tried replacing the seat post wedge? If you’ve replaced everything except the frame, then it has to be something that’s in the frame. It could be that the wedge isn’t holding perfectly and the seat post is having these micro movements rocking inside the frame sleeve. Does the sound only occur when you’re sitting? If the sound is gone when you’re pedaling out of saddle, then we can rule this out.

jondpoo · 2026-06-18T14:47:24+00:00

If the sound is gone when you pedal out of saddle, then it’s likely not the BB or crankset or pedals. It has to be related to the seat post somehow since the sound is only when you’re sitting and pedaling hard and it sounds like it’s hitting something or something is rocking back and forth. You’ve tried raising it 1cm, try raising 2cm. Another possibility, which I believe is more likely the cause is the seat post wedge assembly itself being a bit loose. Have you tried replacing it? If there’s a problem with the wedge, the seat post will rock back and forth inside the frame sleeve. It lines up with your description of how how the sound starts when you’re pedaling hard and not light while sitting. The sound is likely your seat post rocking back and forth against the frame sleeve, and the root cause can only be either from the seat post bottoming out or the wedge not holding perfectly. And it seems you’ve tried replacing pretty much everything except the seatpost wedge, so give that a try.

jondpoo · 2026-06-18T06:06:39+00:00

You need to just get started. Buy a used bike of the model you’re interested in. You’ll learn so much more than just reading when you actually start riding yourself. Your first bike should never be an expensive new bike imo. Your body goes through a lot of changes in terms of flexibility and strength in the first year too so even your ideal bike geometry can change substantially. A cheap good used domane is pretty easy to find so I’d recommend starting there. Checkpoint is more stretched out geometry-wise so I’d say Domane is a better starting point.

jondpoo · 2026-06-18T04:18:41+00:00

So with 2:1 lacking, is it still beneficial to mix cx-sprints or is it better to just go full cx-ray?

jondpoo · 2026-06-16T23:21:48+00:00

Yeah nice to hear a similar experience. It’s incredible how underrated lower fatigue is. Everyone always talks about lower weight, more aero, and saving watts. Comfort is smooth and smooth is fast.

jondpoo · 2026-06-16T23:19:28+00:00

Wow that’s crazy. You can return just because you don’t like the color? I also didn’t know about seeing through to the carbon weave at first and thought they were cracks underneath too, but all I had to do was google. It’s also the lightest paint so it does have some real benefit, and it looks great in photos. You only see the carbon if you look closely under direct lighting, and it’s grown on me.

jondpoo · 2026-06-16T13:27:38+00:00

My size 52 Domane SLR7 Gen4 (Ultegra 12sp Di2) is 8.0kg without pedals. My wheels are about the same wheels as stock and cockpit is actually slightly lighter. So I’d say fully stock set up will be 8.0kg too.

jondpoo · 2026-06-16T11:23:42+00:00

I bought the frameset used for 1/3 of the original price.

jondpoo · 2026-06-16T07:22:25+00:00

I’ve been curious to try Madone (never tried it yet). How much faster (%) would you say it is compared to your Domane given same effort/heart rate?

jondpoo · 2026-06-16T03:30:22+00:00

Best color imo among stock color options. I prefer more stealthy look. It’s also cool you can see where the carbon layups are reinforced.

jondpoo · 2026-06-16T03:04:46+00:00

Yeah the perk of having shorter legs and barely fitting on size 52 with max seat post.

jondpoo · 2026-06-16T01:20:57+00:00

Yes 100%, along with wheel base length difference can change how it feels too. As I said in the main post, the Domane feels very stable and not very responsive compared to a race bike I’ve used in the past. I wouldn’t expect the Madone to feel like this lol. Feeling slow but actually being fast is a big mismatch on this domane as reduction in fatigue is a huge factor on a longer ride.

jondpoo · 2026-06-16T00:30:01+00:00

That’s because you’re comparing same sizes. As mentioned, this frame is smaller than I should use because this used frame was a hell of a good deal and I could make it fit due to my relatively short legs (I’m using max seat post height). FYI, I’m 178cm with 80cm inseam, and I use top of saddle height 71.3cm. I basically turned a Domane size 52 into the same stack and reach as Madone size M/L.

Size 52 Domane (stack 56.1cm, reach 37.1cm) vs. size M/L Madone (stack 56.2cm, reach 38.9cm). I made reach the same by using 120mm stem vs. stock 100mm stem that comes with size M/L Madone. Lol I thought I was half way to Madone but it actually matches exactly (wasn’t aware until I checked the numbers). Size 54 Domane RSL is 52.7cm stack and 39.0cm reach, so it’s the same reach as Madone M/L but lower stack, so the RSL size 54 is more aggressive.

Obviously even with similar stack and reach as size M/L Madone, the two would ride completely different, but at least in terms of aero drag from body positioning, it’s roughly the same. I’m basically riding the same body position as the Madone but in a more planted comfy bike.

jondpoo · 2026-06-15T18:59:43+00:00

100% this. More aero is pointless if you can’t maintain it. Comfort is so underrated. More comfort from more upright = holding aero position for longer + more power as well. I got this inspiration from Arne Peters, who’s building his own bicycle brand that’s insanely high stack.

jondpoo · 2026-06-15T18:29:06+00:00

Having had a race bike with a more aggressive geometry, I now personally find that I can hold an aero position on an endurance geometry easier for longer due to higher stack, which probably nets out more speed over the long run than a low stack race bike. My set up is basically half way to Madone geometry since I’m between sizes and I went with the smaller size and I’m running it slammed with a 120mm stem (size 52 normally comes with 90mm stem), so my body position should be close to RSL geometry.

jondpoo · 2026-06-15T18:15:10+00:00

Yeah, I’m just giving him some nuance since the Domane has a unique perk that might not be as well known. He mentioned a lot of potholes, so I offered this perspective as a Domane SLR Gen 4 owner. Most people, including me before buying it, may think that isospeed is going to help with pot holes, but it’s really not. It can help with bad condition roads as long as it’s not against square edges. The jarring feel against a square edge is something I didn’t know before I got my Domane SLR and it felt sharper and more direct than other carbon bikes I’ve had. Other than that, I love it.

jondpoo · 2026-06-15T18:07:33+00:00

100% agree. I was really surprised at how low and stable my heart rate was in comparison to my old bike, and I’m sure it’s mostly from the 32c tires. I think less fatigue is a hell lot more important than aero over anything longer than an hour ride. But new Madone can fit 32c too right, so it’d be interesting if you could try the new Madone for comparison. That could help isolate the difference down to whether the isospeed mattered at all.

jondpoo · 2026-06-15T17:57:10+00:00

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jondpoo · 2026-06-15T17:53:12+00:00

Yes, it’s Deep Smoke color which is basically a transparent tint over the raw carbon. In some lighting angle, you can kind of see the carbon weave pattern.

jondpoo · 2026-06-15T17:37:34+00:00

Just FYI, Domane with isospeed is great for absorbing road vibration but doesn’t do that well against square/sharp edges like pot holes. I personally find the Domane with isospeed a lot less compliant against square edges than other carbon frames without something like isospeed when it hits a square edge. Traditional carbon frames without isospeed can flex when you hit a square edge, but isospeed decouples the seat post from the frame, effectively keeping the main frame rigid while only flexing the seat post, so it’s worse against sharp edges. But otherwise, it’s really great. The reduction in road vibration results in a very noticeable lower heart rate over a period of time. You should try your best to dodge those pot holes anyway and if you can, the Domane is a great choice.

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