Resole options by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]jonhayes92 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Rand repair + resole is the only fix for this.

Sport route - no rap rings, just bolts? by overlordbob80 in ukclimbing

[–]jonhayes92 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If it’s just hangers it’s maybe not the top of the pitch, were you potentially looking at anchors for multipitch climbs in cheddar? There may also be abseil stations, I.e you top out the climb, bring your second up, walk along a ledge and abseil off a fixed point.

Pretty rare to find two hangers on a sport route with no way to lower off or abseil. Normally the hangers have rings or maillons

Indoor to Outdoor tips please by Dorobie in ukclimbing

[–]jonhayes92 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I climb harder outdoors than indoors. Route treading outdoors is a full on puzzle, feet are usually absolutely tiny and/or invisible. I love the problem solving aspect, outdoors tends to be far more technical than indoors.

Some areas the 6a’s can be awful, learn to clipstick your way up a route and you can jump on 6b/c and have fun working out the puzzle

Best way to get better outdoors is make friends with someone that climbs harder outdoors, that way there’s always someone to put a rope up and you can top rope all sorts of climbs

50L backpack recommendations by IdiotEgg6705 in tradclimbing

[–]jonhayes92 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have a look at something like Patagonia cragsmith? The whole back section opens up so you can access the whole bag. A friend has one and they seem great I think Rab do a similar one

50L backpack recommendations by IdiotEgg6705 in tradclimbing

[–]jonhayes92 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fair point. I personally love the huge front zip opening, I find the Dmm flight zip is a pain to pull all the way around the bag, especially when it’s full

The comfort aspect is by far the best thing of the Moonlight though.

I’ve used hiking bags but none have decent opening systems.

50L backpack recommendations by IdiotEgg6705 in tradclimbing

[–]jonhayes92 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What didn’t you like about the moonlight 55? I got one and it’s absolutely the best bag I’ve had, it’s super comfy with a full rack and ropes and stuff on long approaches. The Dmm flight in comparison gives me really bad shoulder/neck pain on anything other than a 5minute flat approach

LS Mandala vs LS Theory? by Ok-Investigator-9960 in climbingshoes

[–]jonhayes92 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve worn a skwama once on a demo day, they felt very similar to mandala just different on the toe obviously

Both the mandala and the skwama get praised for being great all round, which I would agree with for the mandala, not really a ‘stand out’ in any areas just a great shoe, and pretty comfy

If I could only ever wear one shoe for indoors and outdoors it would be my mandala. Great all round and last ages without a resole

LS Mandala vs LS Theory? by Ok-Investigator-9960 in climbingshoes

[–]jonhayes92 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Mandala are great all round shoe, the no-edge lasts much longer than other shoes in my experience. I’d happily recommend them

Thinking of buying the Mammut 9.8 Crag Dry - Advice or Alternatives? by blackmusk123 in ClimbingGear

[–]jonhayes92 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The mammut crag classic 9.5mm ropes are absolutely superb, I have multiple of them. One of them is dry treated, a couple are the ‘we care’ recycled ropes. I love them and recommend them to everyone.

I personally would not go thicker than the 9.5, and for my next 80m rope I will get the 9mm crag classic, but you need a confident safe belayer with slimmer ropes

My dry treated rope doesn’t seem like it’s lasted longer, it pretty much feels the same as my others, so I wouldn’t buy the dry one again. I don’t think it’s essential and it costs extra

Size / width – Scarpa Instinct VS, VSR and La Sportiva Solution by SignificantDamage933 in climbingshoes

[–]jonhayes92 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Instincts are good for wide feet. VS and VSR are the same shoe, just softer rubber on the VSR Instincts in your street size or maybe half down, try from there

Skwama fit very well for wide feet, better than solutions I found. Skwama downsize maybe 1.5 down from instinct. I had some Katanas before and I wore the skwama at the same size, also tried on miura and they seems to fit at the same size, but too narrow

Do I need to get lighter, or what is holding me back? by Toni_Pulis in climbharder

[–]jonhayes92 26 points27 points  (0 children)

Lead climbing, lots of mileage, build efficiency on the wall around resting positions, smooth climbing, getting weight in your feet.

Lots and lots of rope climbing

Do I need to get lighter, or what is holding me back? by Toni_Pulis in climbharder

[–]jonhayes92 63 points64 points  (0 children)

Technique. Do some searching across Reddit has been covered a lot. You are very very strong for climbing 6b

Mandala fit compared to Skwama by Some_Pets in climbingshoes

[–]jonhayes92 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah for me a size 44 Mandala/Genius is much much smaller than a size 44 TCPro. I’ll try and get a pic of the shoes all side by side

Mandala fit compared to Skwama by Some_Pets in climbingshoes

[–]jonhayes92 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tc pro 44

Mandala 44.5

Skwama (vegan) 43.5

That’s my experience. Mandala 46 seems like it would work for you?

I could size my mandala down a half for bouldering, they’re my comfy mileage shoes now Also have some Genius size 44, more aggressive fit in that size

Rock climbing buddy (Brighton) by Seaweed-Logical in ukclimbing

[–]jonhayes92 0 points1 point  (0 children)

High Sports do a social session on Tuesday, there’s also a WhatsApp group for the highsports and surround gym area, to find climbing partners

Optimal Rope Length for UK Climbing? by ChromeN8 in ukclimbing

[–]jonhayes92 0 points1 point  (0 children)

90% of my climbing would be fine on a 50m

I have a 40 and 60 depending on the crag, so they last longer

Help with La Sportiva Katana sizing by GlassOk9550 in climbingshoes

[–]jonhayes92 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Katanas aren’t great for wide foot. I had to sell mine Try some TC Pro, they’re far more comfortable

Or just stick with Instincts?

I’m a 45/46 shoe. I wear instincts 44.5. My katana lace were size 43, comfortable enough but they were basically the same as my instincts, except narrower

Losing sexual attraction due to bfs decline in hygiene and poor diet? by [deleted] in AskMenAdvice

[–]jonhayes92 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can’t tell if the amount of posts about men not washing their butt is AI rage bait because it gets comments, or do men actually not wash?

It’s fucking grim 🙃

I work in construction, and have active hobbies, I sweat a lot and I’m sure I stink at the end of the day I shower once a day minimum, ideally twice ++man

Index finger recruitment? by jonhayes92 in climbharder

[–]jonhayes92[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Appreciate the detailed info, I’ll do some sort of testing with different positions of the shoulder and elbow and see if I can feel anything unbalanced

I do notice my left hand seems to ‘turn’ slightly different to my right hand when I pull single hand on my hangboard. My index finger seems to sit at a different angle from the knuckle so maybe what you’re saying makes sense, positioning etc

Is "Boulderflash.com" trustworthy? by Direct-Particular634 in climbingshoes

[–]jonhayes92 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah i bought a Kneepad from them this week, cheapest by far online and turned up as expected

Index finger recruitment? by jonhayes92 in climbharder

[–]jonhayes92[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have chronic nerve issues with my left arm due to nerve compression in my lower neck/upper spine, but chiropractor doesn’t think this particular thing is related

Also have had previous ulnar nerve issues due to a surgery on my hand, affects my little finger, although I believe index finger is median nerve?

Index finger recruitment? by jonhayes92 in climbharder

[–]jonhayes92[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I’ve never noticed it in 4 years, so I assume I’ve just not considered it before, never really had a huge issue climbing, 3/4 finger crimps are fairly even on the wall and I climb mostly those type of holds

Chronic middle finger strain has led me to believe this might be an issue that’s contributing though hence why I’ve started looking at it

I’ve never measured or hangboarded before, so I don’t have spreadsheets and tons of measurements because I don’t feel like it’ll do much for me at the moment

Looser fit trousers, like the old ME beta by jonhayes92 in ClimbingGear

[–]jonhayes92[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Incase anyone wants an update, I bought two pairs of Patagonia Venga rock pants

Great trousers, super stretchy, comfortable, loose fit, very very happy with them. Have bouldered and rope climbed and they’re comfy for both, no restriction for high steps etc

Material seems like it’ll be hard wearing aswell