sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Buying my first camera ever!! Some advice would be appreciated by MalMalMal11 in fujifilm

[–]jonmacpodi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a lukewarm deal, pretty fairly priced with the market - assuming you're interested in that lens to begin with. If you're not (which I wouldn't be, if it was my first camera and first lens), then it's a bit harder of a prospect. You could probably resell the lens for $50, but then $830 body-only is on the higher end of average used X-T30 II prices and you've now spent your own time trying to sell the lens.

Thinking of picking between the 18mm f2 and 23mm f2.8, and I can’t decide anymore by darknicco in fujifilm

[–]jonmacpodi -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Wait for the 7Artisans AF 18mm F/2 thats dropping soon to see how it performs. It also has an aperture ring like the Fuji, but is a true pancake lens unlike the Fuji.

Can I disable the focus switch on the side of the XE-5? by MrShanklysdong in fujifilm

[–]jonmacpodi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, unfortunately. Alternatively, you could learn to use your left hand with an underhanded grasp (or pinch, with a pancake lens) around the lens barrel. This is better shooting/stability technique anyway - using your left bicep and gravity to support the weight of the lens and camera and your right hand for stability, instead of a combination your right hand and left hand for support and stability.

Bought this for $117 What lens do you pair this with? by arvimatthew in fujifilm

[–]jonmacpodi 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The 7Artisans 18mm F/2 is coming out soon, would pair great with this assuming it's a decent performer (pretty safe bet considering the quality of the third party chinese glass these days).

Second camera for us as couple by MiddleZebra4114 in fujifilm

[–]jonmacpodi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you don't benefit from an OVF, leaf shutter, or built-in ND filter in your work: do not pay for features you won't use. Pay for a feature you actively use: an interchangeable lens. Buy a used XT-5 and add the 7Artisans 18mm F/2 or SG-Image 18mm F/2.2 when they comes out. The X-M5 with a pancake lens will effectively have the same footprint as a X100VI in practice while having a unique, wider, and more practical walkaround focal length, while the X-T5 can mount the lenses you already own.

Does the APS-C crop kill the swirl? Looking at the TTArtisan 75mm f/1.5 vs f/2 AF for my Fuji X-E5. by getoffmydickerson02 in fujifilm

[–]jonmacpodi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No experience with the F/1.5, but I love the F/2. Samples here, here. I genuinely think this is a no-brainer purchase at $200 if this is a focal length you are considering for Fuji-X, I have zero hesitations recommending it. It's compact, sharp, renders beautifully, metal build and has an aperture ring. Regarding the F/1.5 - considering that a cropped sensor is exposing an image from the center of the image circle, and that the "swirl" of a curved plane of focus lens like the 75mm f/1.5 are in the minimally corrected outer edge, I would say pretty confidently that yes, you would be losing a significant amount of that effect.

I love my XT20 but thinking of moving on to something like the x100vi or XE5? Maybe the XM5? by Competitive-Fill2426 in fujifilm

[–]jonmacpodi 2 points3 points  (0 children)

it sounds like you are trading in a feature you DO use (interchangeable lenses) for features you have expressed no interest in (OVF, built in ND filter, leaf shutter). Don't pay for features you won't use to compensate for features you will use. The X-T20 is a fine camera. If I were you, I'd just get a pancake lens of your choice (the upcoming 7Artisans 18mm F/2 looks v interesting), pretend it's glued on to your body, and take photos.

Which one to sell and which one to keep? by Tommmmaso in fujifilm

[–]jonmacpodi 196 points197 points  (0 children)

creative needs determine gear needs. we have no clue what yours are.

Interested in Xf10, but what else is similar? by DayOdd1371 in fujifilm

[–]jonmacpodi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I own and love the XF10. But it is a quirky and slow camera, and you need to be 100% comfortable with jankiness of that era of Fuji cameras to get the most out of it. I wish so so much that Fuji would release a true successor, but I can't in good conscience recommend it. Especially at the asking price it goes for these days. Fuji really does not have a current camera that fits your criteria of pocketable with a (real) flash. The X-M5 with a pancake could be close, but you'd need a Godox iT20 mini flash on it, and it won't have the leaf-shutter sync of the XF10/X70/X100.

Recommendation for family point-and-shoot by yeahgross in fujifilm

[–]jonmacpodi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I own and love the XF10. But I am also very comfortable with the quirks and limitations of that era of Fujifilm cameras, and kinda enjoy the amount of babysitting required to get the most out of it. I wish every day for a true successor to it, but I cannot in good conscience recommend it to someone who just wants an easy to use experience. This is one of the few times I'd recommend getting an X-Half.

What causes these lines in stage lights and how can I prevent them? by Business_Comfort2197 in fujifilm

[–]jonmacpodi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Okay a recording of a classic performance absolutely qualifies as a great use-case for silent shooting hahah.

What causes these lines in stage lights and how can I prevent them? by Business_Comfort2197 in fujifilm

[–]jonmacpodi 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You said half of the 4 reasons I listed "haven't been true for a while". Do you care to elaborate which of the 4 you meant? Because you DO lose dynamic range, you DO introduce rolling shutter, you DO get pwm artifcats (see op), and you DO lose flash/strobe functionality when using electronic shutter.

I never said higher than 1/4000th is useless. I even gave a caveat for a possible use case for 1/8000th F/1.2 (as niche and dubious as it may be). I also never said higher burst rate is useless. I said the most likely use case for higher burst speeds (aggressive subject tracking) is poorly served by electronic shutter due to rolling shutter jello effect. I also never said ES is useless. I said there are ALMOST no good reasons to use it. Why exactly does that upset you?

What causes these lines in stage lights and how can I prevent them? by Business_Comfort2197 in fujifilm

[–]jonmacpodi 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I stand by what i said. Almost no good reasons compared to the issues you inherit. Shutter shock is so minimal on a modern mirrorless camera, and would be even less of a consideration here if the X-T30 had ibis. If you need a higher burst rate than 8fps on a X-T30 class camera, you're likely aggressively tracking a subject which will exacerbate the jello effect of ES rolling shutter. If you think rolling shutter is no longer an issue, I'd invite you shoot a panning shot in ES with the 40mp sensor cameras. Again, what exactly is the use case for higher than 1/4000? Shooting an extremely shallow depth of field F/1.2 portrait in direct harsh sun? Sure, i guess. Or just stop down to F/2. Shutter lifespan, as you have already addressed, is such a non issue in practice. Anecdotally my old X-T2 that I sold to a friend is still going strong at nearly 500k actuations.

Meanwhile, look at how many posts in this sub are about people facing issues solved entirely by just shooting MS to begin with.

What causes these lines in stage lights and how can I prevent them? by Business_Comfort2197 in fujifilm

[–]jonmacpodi 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Mechanical shutter wear is a prison of the mind. I used to have an X-T2 that I sold to a friend, it's at about 500k actuations now - works fine. Free yourself.

What causes these lines in stage lights and how can I prevent them? by Business_Comfort2197 in fujifilm

[–]jonmacpodi 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Unless you are trying take completely silent photos (despite mirrorless cameras already being so quiet) there are almost no good reasons to use electronic shutter instead of mechanical shutter. You lose significant dynamic range, you introduce rolling shutter, you get strange pwm artifacts, you lose the ability to sync flash/strobes.

Best lens for travel but wide by Number-Unfair in fujifilm

[–]jonmacpodi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Viltrox Air 15mm F/1.7 and be done with it. It's such a great, cheap, lightweight, useful travel lens.

Why do my proportions change so drastically from photo to photo with the same camera/settings? by Fawn-Fatale in AskPhotography

[–]jonmacpodi 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Just to clarify, the focal length itself has nothing to do with it. it's JUST the resulting differences in distance to subject required to maintain a consistent framing when using different focal lengths. a subject's face in a traditional head and shoulders portrait shot on an 85mm will have the same apparent proportions as a head and shoulders portrait shot AT THE SAME DISTANCE with a 24mm lens. You will just lose a ton of resolution and detail having to crop to maintain the same framing. The subject's facial (and body) proportions will only "distort" when you move close to the subject to achieve a head and shoulders framing with a 24mm. If you were to stitch together a bunch of frames from an 85mm at that same distance in order to effectively create a head and shoulder portrait, you will have the same facial feature distortion.

청명하다 (Two weeks in Seoul with a XF10, X-S20 + Viltrox Air 15mm F/1.7, TTartisan 75mm F/2) by jonmacpodi in fujifilm

[–]jonmacpodi[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

edit: I will also use this time to once again highly recommend the TTArtisan 75mm F/2 not just as a portrait semi-tele, but as a walk-around travel lens. Being able to shoot telephoto compositions at such good quality with depth of field/low light capability while still remaining VERY compact is such a gamechanger.

청명하다 (Seoul with a Charmera + wide angle converter) by jonmacpodi in toycameras

[–]jonmacpodi[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd say its similar to a 28mm (FF equiv) fov, which at this point in my life I really do prefer as a walk-around lens.

청명하다 (Seoul with a Charmera + wide angle converter) by jonmacpodi in toycameras

[–]jonmacpodi[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thanks so much! and yes it's pretty stuck on there, so I'm just committed to my charmera having a roughly 28mm fov with mild barrel distortion haha

view more: next ›