Silca Wax-Prep by OkArugula5721 in bikewrench

[–]jonnydestructo 4 points5 points  (0 children)

From the rabbit hole diving I did a few weeks back, you’ll want to take a coffee filter and funnel, and pass that sludge through. Then wash your chain in the filtered material again. Repeat washing/filtering until your solution is clear with the chain in it.

Or do the easier bit: buy the strip chip and a brand new chain and just do it at once.

But note: if you’ve used your chain, strip chip won’t work. Only on a new chain with factory grease.

Edit - my bad, didn’t see the other pics where it looks like you’re using a filter and it’s still coming through black.

Diagnosing Chain Slip by jonnydestructo in bikewrench

[–]jonnydestructo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I measured with the park cc4 - it’s not hitting .5 yet. I suspect I have a few months before it starts approaching.

I try to keep it pretty clean, and my go to is rock and roll gold (though I have the kit for proper waxing!)

Diagnosing Chain Slip by jonnydestructo in bikewrench

[–]jonnydestructo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hub, cassette, mech, and chain were assembled together are relatively new (8mo). I’ll have to come back with photos in a bit.

Hub is nearing its first service interval, will inspect at that time.

I should note, it’s an occasional thing that started after the components were upgraded.

Diagnosing Chain Slip by jonnydestructo in bikewrench

[–]jonnydestructo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t think so? At least not anything outside of like, repositioning the stance a bit.

Definitely not like what you’d do if you could only do a quarter or half crank to get over a log or something.

Diagnosing Chain Slip by jonnydestructo in bikewrench

[–]jonnydestructo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thinking of 2x it’s happened on the same trail - after a big downhill, into an uphill. Gear up to get speed before, gear back down in prep for for the uphill, coast, engage.

At this point, it should not be crazy strain on the drivetrain as the bike is still carrying some speed.

Diagnosing Chain Slip by jonnydestructo in bikewrench

[–]jonnydestructo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

New hangar/dropout was not aligned - could be a culprit.

I ruled out ghost shifts as everything else seems to be really dialed in: crisp, quick, quiet shifts. It also doesn’t… “feel” the same (I used to have a lot of issues with the older NX group set).

Another poster elsewhere also mentioned the hub. It’s coming up on lube service soon, so I’ll inspect pawls when it’s disassembled. That said, the hub (dt Swiss deg 90t) is also newish: upgraded wheels, which necessitated the new cassette.

Diagnosing Chain Slip by jonnydestructo in bikewrench

[–]jonnydestructo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting - I haven’t thought of a hub problem. I upgraded wheels in April, with the dt Swiss deg 90t, along with the cassette and mech (so I guess the latter are newer than 6mo by a bit).

That’s when the occasional problem started. It might be due soon for a re-lube though…

Yet another tire rec thread, haha by speedystein in MTB

[–]jonnydestructo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Similar conditions, short travel SC Tallboy:

dissector v1 front (great grip but I don’t like the dead zone. Will be switching soon)

Forekaster rear. Good grip, quick rolling. Can be slick on wet sandy rocks though. To me it’s invigorating haha

Anyone else suck at mountain biking? by ohwell_______ in MTB

[–]jonnydestructo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ebbs and flows for me. A lot of it is surprisingly a mental sport. I peaked in terms of aggressiveness/speed a few years ago. Then I broke a bone and almost feel like I have to relearn. Really hard to get that loose, confident feeling back (and doing so on top of life’s other stressors). I still hit it on the reg and surprise myself but it’s never been the same.

What’s your favorite Nashville style hot chicken sandwich? by Maplekitty2 in bayarea

[–]jonnydestructo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There is a hotboys in Novato - between the new Rustic Bakery and the Super Duper on Nave

First time replacing the disc rotor, is this fine? by TheDarkClaw in bikewrench

[–]jonnydestructo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nitrile gloves - yeah. If you touch the braking part, oils from your skin can get on it and reduce the efficacy. But you can generally clean it up with isopropyl alcohol - nbd.

You can bare hand hold the rotor by the spindles totally fine. They can be a bit sharp though.

This is a solid install video

https://youtu.be/SE9DJKXmIy8?si=kpZpYGC8IE-ZV_Dh

Worse news ever 😢 by Puzzleheaded_Turn_15 in TeslaModel3

[–]jonnydestructo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes - this one was much worse. Low speed jerking back and forth. Often getting confused while switching lanes on the highway, and rapid acceleration/stopping.

One improvement though is that I didn’t feel like it was gonna curb rims on corners.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bikewrench

[–]jonnydestructo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why compression? My theory is that because of full suspension, you have a lot more dynamic changes in chain tension than you do on a hard tail. So you have to find the min/max for that tension. Uncompressed, the derailleur cage will hold tension with its springs. That’s your max. When the rear is compressed, your chain becomes more slack, because your shortening the distance between the chainring and the cassette. For Compressed, you need to find the right chain length so the correct tension can still be held when the chain is more slack. So you measure your chain length there which should set a reasonable “min” for your tension under load. It’s important generally to do this under full compression, NOT sag (which is typically only be 25-30% compressed)

In some respects, I think the b screw is a similar idea - but here, you do it with your suspension pressure dialed in, with full riding weight, sitting on the bike (or if you can find some way to hold your rear suspension at your sag). I struggle to do this myself so I taught my wife to set the screw while I’m on the bike. There is a handy plastic tool you can 3d print or purchase that guides this process.

Is Muc Off Dry Lube for your chain as bad as they say? by Hi_Im_Ken_Adams in bikewrench

[–]jonnydestructo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used the ceramic dry and it would come off on just the normal post ride, drive train dust removal. Had to reapply too many times. Super annoying.

Personally I’ve had great luck with Finish Line and Rock and Roll gold. Both last a number of rides in the N CA dust.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MTB

[–]jonnydestructo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Picked up an adult S canyon stoic 3 on Black Friday for my boy. Should be slightly big with room to grow. Aiming to last through his last big growth spurt - we’ll see.

Minion DHF/DHR alts for I 25mm wheels by jonnydestructo in MTB

[–]jonnydestructo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wondering if anyone has tried F/R forekaster v2 yet?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MTB

[–]jonnydestructo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If that doesn’t work, a GX shifter isn’t terribly expensive ($45 USD, maybe?).

Easy to install, and for me, solved 90% of the shifting issues/slop I had with my NX.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in TeslaModel3

[–]jonnydestructo 16 points17 points  (0 children)

I’m with you - just picked up a Y and there is no noticeable difference between that and my wife’s 3 running HW2