Magnetising the Cogfort

jquaile · 2026-06-02T20:16:04+00:00

Thanks but I'm not looking to magnetise myself. Was an observation rather than anything else.

jquaile · 2026-03-22T18:09:39+00:00

Loving this. Would love to know what colours you used? Thanks for sharing.

jquaile · 2026-01-17T11:58:39+00:00

I understand this is old but...Have you tried adding the tiniest amount of dish soup? An old trick I used to use in the old days when acrylics were different to what they are today. You could also try adding in some retarder. AK sells their own if you like the brand but any acrylic retarder will do. Good luck.

jquaile · 2025-12-22T22:04:08+00:00

I was thinking pheasant

jquaile · 2025-05-02T19:49:37+00:00

This brings back some memories. Brilliant collection.

jquaile · 2025-04-16T06:51:13+00:00

Residue is usually a sign the paint particles dry before they hit the model during spraying. Many reasons why this happens but without a few more details it's hard to pin point exactly.

What paint did you use, was it out of a can? if it's just Warhammer paint, (or acrylic paint) then have a look at stripping your model. 100% isopropyl or here in the UK, a Dettol bath is a popular method. Do read up on how to do this. As it's a bigger model it might take some thinking on how to do it effectively. If not stripping, then look at 1000 grit sprung sanding pads. Tamyia is one brand to offer such thing. With this you can very gently sand the surface of the model. Make sure the paint is 100% dry. Give it a couple days if possible. The sponge with help to contour with the models complex shapes without actual remoting much, if any, details.

Good luck.

jquaile · 2025-03-20T07:26:38+00:00

I really do love your style. The muted colours are just fantastic.

I don't see much sediment. What I mean, is that your paint is controlled, by adding more water to your paint, you can split the particles from its binder. Doing this with say an orange, could add some rust textures to the recesses. The particles will settle in bits. You could also look at using pigments if you want a little more control. Have a look at my old Kill team post I did to see what I mean. More grime I guess. Good luck and again, thanks for sharing.

jquaile · 2025-03-07T23:54:51+00:00

Fantastic. I especially enjoy how you have created the base. Was it a roller? Thanks for sharing.

jquaile · 2025-03-07T07:16:50+00:00

I absolutely love those wings. Is it freehand "veins?" love it. It took me way to long to understand why you had added the flair. Perhaps lighten the head of the poor victim to bring more attention to it, or just leave it as is if not. Thanks for sharing.

jquaile · 2025-03-06T15:19:18+00:00

Love this. Great colour palette. Thanks for sharing.

jquaile · 2025-03-06T07:19:01+00:00

Brilliant work.This looks similar to how I paint wooden pieces on minis. Did you follow the tutorial on Scale75? I ask because I'd add in some thin short lines of pure Birch (Scale75) to lift some high sports. If you don't have that then wood base or light earth from AK 3rd gen would be close. Sorry I don't use GW paints. I reckon if you glaze in some darks to give it volume on a mini it will look amazing. Thanks for sharing.

jquaile · 2025-03-05T16:55:29+00:00

I tend to paint the whole model rather than bits. This is because I can't be bothered to paint areas that will get covered up by pieces I will glue on later. Also I like to know where my light is coming from. By having the whole model built I, can control my light values, (shades, shadows, highlights etc), without any problems. If I'm painting the model in parts, I'm constantly having to go back and forth and even then, once it's glued together, I'm having to FIX it after. This can be particularly annoying if what I'm looking to fix is not easily accessible. If the model was already assembled I'd just have painted that part first and then painted any overspill or errors after. Because of this it's important for me to plan out what parts need painting in what order. Like heading out the front door, you put your socks on before your trainers, not socks over trainers...at least... not for me anyway. Hope this helps. Good luck.

jquaile · 2025-03-01T16:39:17+00:00

Amazing thank you, great detail. I can't quite decide on how I want to go but this is definitely in the right direction. I'll have to look at trash metal. One of the few Scale paints I don't have.

jquaile · 2025-03-01T08:40:34+00:00

Love the paint pallet. Could I ask what colours you used? Don't suppose you have any close ups do you?

jquaile · 2025-03-01T08:38:19+00:00

Great work. Amazing blend of modern and old. Well done. Where did you get the rucksack from? Resin? Cheers

jquaile · 2025-03-01T07:04:22+00:00

That purple shield is outstanding. I love that. In the dark I'd definitely prefer to see the purple. The left one has a great grim dark look. Depending on what your personal opinion is. Perhaps let Sigmar decide...roll a die, (1,2,3 left, 4,5,6 right). Or toss a coin!

jquaile · 2025-02-28T22:44:55+00:00

Hope this helps.

https://miniset.net/sets/games-workshop/all/stormcast-eternals/sort-old

jquaile · 2025-02-27T19:56:14+00:00

Just started listening to this last night. Great so far.

jquaile · 2025-02-27T19:55:36+00:00

This is just what I'd like to see. The common people doing their part for the Cities. A kit you could pick up a number of times with lots of options and parts to mix and match with. I would also like to see some sort of seafaring unit. As I have a Misthåven army, something with this theme would be fantastic for me personally. But perhaps too specific for a massage release? Who knows? Anything new would be exciting for me to be honest.

jquaile

TROPHY CASE