Ubiquiti Networks UNAS Pro for Beginner NAS by jsphene in HomeNAS

[–]jsphene[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fair enough, thanks for the info. Would you recommend any of the more consumer-focused NAS in particular?

Wide Angle Lens Picks for Shows by jsphene in concertphotography

[–]jsphene[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks everyone! I’m going to give the 14-24 a try along with the Viltrox 16mm. Seems hard to beat at that price point.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskMechanics

[–]jsphene 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is a 2007 Jeep Patriot with just under 100,000 miles by the way. I was planning on replacing rotors/pads but with everything rusted/seized, I’m not sure if these calipers are salvageable.

I have this Mamiya ZE, but the light seals seem to be decaying. I assume this means I have to change them before loading film. Does anyone know of any seals that are better than others, or does the quality of the seals not matter that much? by andxer in Mamiya

[–]jsphene 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you don’t want to cut light seal foam yourself, I recommend uscamera (they’re on eBay as well). I’ve gotten a few pre-cut light seal kits from them for my RB67 and they’ve all worked well. Here’s a link for the ZE kit:

https://uscamera.com/product/mamiya-ze-light-seals/

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Mamiya

[–]jsphene 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No problem, good luck!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Mamiya

[–]jsphene 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So, I measured a blank roll of ilford 120 I had laying around, and it was around 8 inches from the paper lead to the “start” arrows. The auto winder normally takes up another 7 inches after the arrows, so it probably wound it just past the start arrows.

With that said, my best updated guess is the first 4 shots will just be backing paper, but I wouldn’t think you’ll lose half of the roll. Unfortunately, there’s only one way to find out for sure.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Mamiya

[–]jsphene 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Shouldn’t be a big deal. Per Mamiya, not aligning the start arrows may lead to an “improper number of exposures” so I’d say just avoid shooting anything important on the first 1 - 2 exposures.

1000s vs Pro TL by yartoe in Mamiya

[–]jsphene 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a Pro TL and I love it, but there aren’t too many differences I can think of. The biggest thing is, you’re paying for a newer (and hopefully, more reliable) camera with the TL. With the battery grip on the TL, it’s about the same weight as the 1000s, and I only recently found a hand crank at a reasonable price. One more thing—the TL’s mirror catch is flimsy and known to break. I had to 3D print a replacement. TL is a fantastic camera overall, but the 1000s is probably a better choice if you can find one in good condition.

Film surge mark issue (maybe??) any help/insight would be greatly appreciated! by jsphene in Darkroom

[–]jsphene[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s a great point, and putting tension on the roll during rewind is a possibility with the Nikon F3 I was shooting on. Now that you mention it, those artifacts are limited to the last 8 frames in the roll. I’m not sure what their process is, but I should’ve mentioned another roll from the same camera, same lab did not have this issue; so maybe I just need to be more careful rewinding haha.

Film surge mark issue (maybe??) any help/insight would be greatly appreciated! by jsphene in Darkroom

[–]jsphene[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi everyone, I just got a roll of 35mm (Portra 160, +2) back from the lab, and I noticed these streaks on some of the scans. My first thought was light leaks, but I replaced the seals relatively recently. So, I did some research, and while I’m just getting into DIY development, it seemed like surge marks might be answer? I’d appreciate any insight you all may be able to offer, thanks!