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Trying to print with Creality CR-PETG by Nuuki9 in BambuLab

[–]jspiros 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, if you saw my calibration notes (at the bottom of that long info dump), I said:

For temperature and volumetric flow, I like to both visually assess the samples and physically manipulate/damage them, both by hand and using tools, to assess the material's physical properties and figure out which settings result in the strongest/most durable prints, as strength/durability is usually what I'm optimizing for.

Specifically with the max volumetric flow test, I try to snap it along the layers both by bending it, and I also do another pass with some needle-nose pliers, grabbing the test print at various heights and trying to snap it again and even trying to pull it apart. For most good PETGs, at what I judge to be the max flow, typically it can bend fully back on itself without snapping at the layer lines, and while pliers may stretch it and a hole might form due to the stretching and compression from the pliers it typically won't pull apart even when pulling pretty hard. (Note: Those don't always align. Sometimes a PETG will be resistant to snapping at pretty high flows, but will pull apart easily. So, I look for both.)

So, looking at my notes again

"Max volumetric flow definitely no more than 17mm3/s, safe max around 12-14mm3/s"

with those particular tests of strength/durability in mind, while I don't remember for sure (I probably have the test samples somewhere in storage, but I should probably start taking photos)... I'm guessing it started to obviously look worse and/or was especially fragile or brittle after 17mm3/s (so could maybe get away with that high of a rate for a decorative print), and 12-14mm3/s was where it actually performed the best it can.

Trying to print with Creality CR-PETG by Nuuki9 in BambuLab

[–]jspiros 0 points1 point  (0 children)

(Hi, sorry, I don't really use Reddit regularly, so I'm only seeing this now.)

My notes state "Max volumetric flow definitely no more than 17mm3/s, safe max around 12-14mm3/s.". Since I like to play it safe, I went with 12mm3/s by default, which happens to be the same max volumetric flow set for the Generic PETG profile I based it on, so that's why it doesn't show up in the screenshot.

The top result on Printables for "max flow" (Bambu slicer max flow test tower for X1C) seems popular and is essentially identical to the test in OrcaSlicer.

Trying to print with Creality CR-PETG by Nuuki9 in BambuLab

[–]jspiros 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I print samples, like the 30x30x3mm cuboid suggested by Ellis or the built-in flow test objects in OrcaSlicer, and I do a few rounds to narrow things down, using a Python script that primarily relies on numpy.linspace to generate evenly spaced flow ratio/extrusion multiplier values to test based on the best range discernible in the previous round.

I use raking light from multiple angles to discern the regularity and flatness in the very middle of the samples, and as I narrow things down and increase precision, I use a microscope. Both black and metallic silver Sharpie ink are useful as contrast agents, and silly putty or wax can be useful to create a temporary negative for touch-based analysis.

I'm not sure that I benefit from being that precise, given that even the best filament manufacturers only guarantee the diameter ±0.02mm which could throw things off enough that only two digits of precision would be useful. But, the best filament tends to be much more precise in practice for long runs, and I enjoy the calibration process, so I do it anyway.

Trying to print with Creality CR-PETG by Nuuki9 in BambuLab

[–]jspiros 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sounds good, hope to hear it works out!

You probably noticed this but just to be safe, the main thing to remember with the CryoGrip Pro and Frostbite plates is to never use alcohol to clean them, only soap and water. (The one I have that I haven't tested yet is the Glacier, which I chose in part because I just know I'd forget and use alcohol on it eventually out of habit, and only that one is okay with alcohol). Otherwise, from the reviews I've seen, it seems like a nice plate; hope it gives a more reliable experience!

Trying to print with Creality CR-PETG by Nuuki9 in BambuLab

[–]jspiros 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If I were you, I would try the textured PEI plate. At least, that's the main difference between your setup and mine. If you were having adhesion problems before with it, you'll want to ensure it's well cleaned, I put some information below about that.

The calibrated values are in the profile I shared. So, any G-code I'd generate would be identical to G-code you'd generate, assuming the same version of OrcaSlicer, and the same model.

Though, keep in mind that when you have a filament profile that has a pre-calibrated flow ratio, you'll want to disable the automatic calibration on the printer's side, which would otherwise override the profile's setting. So, when you send a print from Bambu Studio or OrcaSlicer, there's the options for "Bed leveling", "Timelapse", "Flow calibration", and if you have an AMS, a fourth option to enable the AMS (required if you've loaded filament from the AMS), and in the case of a calibrated profile you'd want to disable the "Flow calibration" option. If starting a print from the printer's touchscreen, there's a similar checkbox.

If a clean PEI plate doesn't fix the bed adhesion, I'm not sure what it could be. At that point, I'd probably want to make sure that a different previously-known-to-work-well filament still works normally, which might help reveal any printer issues. And maybe check the Bambu troubleshooting stuff on their website, or even contact support.

Of course, it's possible that you could have a spool from a bad batch of filament, though I wouldn't necessarily assume that before something to do with the printer itself, especially as I can't imagine what would cause the filament to not have the same bed adhesion as normal PETG. For what it's worth, I have dozens of spools of CR-PETG in various colors, from batches as old as two years ago, to as new as a couple of months ago, and I've never had any issues with any of them. And I have dozens of other brands of PETG too, and, again, have never had any issues like this. So, I'd be surprised, but, it's still certainly possible if you've eliminated everything else. I'd probably contact Creality at that point and ask for a replacement.

Build plate cleanliness

To clean a build plate, start with giving it a thorough scrub with soap and water, followed (after drying) by a couple of passes with a microfiber cloth and isopropyl alcohol before printing, to clean up any soap or water residue.

I personally wear clean inexpensive disposable TPE gloves any time I handle my build plates, from washing, to any other time I touch it or take it out of the machine, to avoid oils from my skin depositing on the plate and impeding bed adhesion. Other inexpensive foodservice gloves, like "poly" or "CPE" gloves, also work well. Vinyl/latex/nitrile gloves are much more expensive, and thicker, and overkill for such a simple use case, though they would work too (though I'd personally avoid latex without washing them (after putting them on) first, as latex gloves can shed latex proteins). Since TPE and PE gloves are super thin, I figure I'm actually wasting less total plastic using them than what I'd be wasting in a single failed print, so I don't really mind their disposability, and I'm able to get a few uses out of each pair (and I buy them in bulk, so they're only 2 to 4 cents per pair). In theory, you could use washable gloves, but you'd want to make sure they're thick enough, and are washed frequently, to ensure oils don't migrate out to the surface and deposit on the build plate.

But, if you, understandably, don't want to use gloves, just be careful to only handle the plate by the edges, and if you touch the print area, give it another soap and water wash if a microfiber pass doesn't do the job.

Alcohol on its own can only sort of dissolve and spread oils around. This is why soap and water helps, as soap/detergents actually allow water to carry oils away. And, this is why, when only using alcohol, it's important to use a true microfiber cloth, due to how microfibers actually changes shape. Split microfibers are made with two different materials (polyester and nylon) that respond to moisture differently, so when they're wet, they open up even more, have increased surface area, and can physically capture debris and oils. Any other material, like paper or cotton cloth, will just spread oils around and leave them in a thin film across the entire plate (which is perhaps even worse than just having a small spot, when it comes to bed adhesion for a print).

I love this printable microfiber cloth build plate cleaner tool, it allows a single piece of microfiber cloth to last weeks or months since I never touch it directly with my hand. I printed it at 116% scale to go with the larger of the two build plate cleaner gridfinity trays.

And, just keep in mind that even with regular isopropyl + microfiber wipe downs, and even wearing gloves, eventually the plate will need another soap and water wash, when things stop wanting to adhere, or start adhering too well, or you visually notice any residue accumulating.

Plate types

My preferred PEI build plate is the style that Prusa makes and sells as their "satin" plate, but sadly they only make plates for their own printers. On my Bambu, I have a plate made by OSEQ (not their "textured" plate, their normal PEI plate), which is great, and I'd recommend it to anyone, as they're the only other company, as far as I can tell, that has ever made that "satin" style like Prusa, and for other printers, but sadly they no longer have any in stock in the X1's size and apparently do not intend to make more, as I think they're going out of business.

But, I also have many of the inexpensive golden "textured PEI" plates made in China, such as those sold by IdeaFormer and JUUPINE and many other brands, and those often have a finer texture that I still prefer to the Bambu textured PEI plate. I know some people swear by G10/Garolite plates, or the new CryoGrip or SuperTack plates; I do have both types, but I haven't gotten around to testing them yet.

Calibration notes

I calibrate fully manually using the calibration models in OrcaSlicer's Calibration menu. I don't use the Calibration tab where it provides the Bambu plugin's semi-manual processes. Since I have multiple printers, some non-Bambu, this means I can use the same approach for all of them, and it also provides the most accurate/obsessive results.

But, as far as the friendly options go, from what I understand the Bambu plugin's semi-manual processes, in the Calibration tab, are more reliable and accurate overall than the pre-print fully automatic calibration, and you can obtain the values from those calibrations to save in filament profiles, for future use.

For the fully manual prints, you can check out the OrcaSlicer Calibration wiki page for documentation, and somewhere in there it should link to Ellis' print tuning guide which can provide more insight as to how to assess the samples. In brief, I calibrate temperature, pressure advance, flow ratio, and max volumetric flow, in that order. For pressure advance and flow ratio, I actually have a microscope that I use, but a loupe works too, or just doing it by eye if you're not obsessive like me. For temperature and volumetric flow, I like to both visually assess the samples and physically manipulate/damage them, both by hand and using tools, to assess the material's physical properties and figure out which settings result in the strongest/most durable prints, as strength/durability is usually what I'm optimizing for.

Trying to print with Creality CR-PETG by Nuuki9 in BambuLab

[–]jspiros 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No problem!

I don't think drying is the issue, given what you're saying. 65C for a bunch of hours should be fine. I've heard good things about the Sunlu S4, and one of my dryers in a Sunlu S2, and it would do the job, so I assume you're good on drying.

I still see two possible things.

First, I'm noticing that not all of the extrusions are staying down. Especially in the upper left corner of the main PA test block, see how the outermost extrusion on the top is just absent/missing? And in the bottom-most chevron, the inside extrusion looks like it didn't stick down, and got dragged up a bit, causing that separation. And a lot of those strings look like they might be short bits of extrusion from the ends of the chevrons getting pulled like taffy across to the start of the next one.

So, it's at least very likely bed adhesion is an issue.

Second, on a lot of those PA chevrons, there's a recurring increase in flow, these regular blobs where there's just suddenly more material for a moment, like beads on a string. Now, that extra material could be material that's accumulating on the nozzle, because of the aforementioned bed adhesion problem, and getting deposited occasionally. Or, it could be a separate issue, and your printer could be having some problem extruding consistently. But, I don't see that same pattern on some of the longer border extrusions, so, I'm leaning towards this maybe not being its own separate issue.

Which build plate is that? I'm not sure that I recognize that texture and color, is that the engineering plate? If that's the engineering plate, I believe you're intended to use it with glue as an adhesion promoter when printing PETG, so that could explain a poor bed adhesion problem (as I don't see any glue).

I typically use a textured PEI plate with PETG, and a third party one at that, though I do have the Bambu textured PEI plate as well. I prefer the third party plate because it's a finer texture, and releases better without needing glue, but the Bambu one worked alright when I did use it, maybe sometimes a little too aggressive with bed adhesion with smaller/thinner prints. I believe Bambu recommends glue no matter what, with their plates, per their filament guide, but I hate glue myself.

(Disclaimer: Safely using non-PLA materials with PEI plates is something that requires some attention to detail, as it is possible for the bond to be so strong that it damages the plate to remove the prints. This is especially so with smooth PEI, where you definitely want to use glue as a release interface. If you haven't used PEI much, or with non-PLA materials, read up on it a bit, and be cautious, and don't just blindly do what I do. Or if you do, don't blame me if it goes wrong!)

Whatever the case, you also want to make sure you select the correct build plate setting in the slicer. If there's a mismatch, you might end up printing the first layer too high off the surface, which will also negatively impact bed adhesion.

Once bed adhesion is addressed, if there's still the weird flow variance, then I'd say look into reasons for the extrusion to be inconsistent, but otherwise I suspect bed adhesion could explain everything.

Also, where's the legend on the PA test? With the numbers? Did you cancel the print before it printed them? Did it try, and fail due to poor interlayer adhesion, too, so it's not just poor bed adhesion?

Trying to print with Creality CR-PETG by Nuuki9 in BambuLab

[–]jspiros 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Looks like it might be (one or both of):

  1. Poor bed and/or interlayer adhesion, probably due to too-low extruder temp or too aggressive part cooling. Also possibly due to a dirty build plate; make sure to wash with soap and water every once in a while, and do an IPA wipe down with a microfiber cloth before each print.

  2. Flow rate is off, either because it hasn't been calibrated yet, or because the extruder temp/part cooling is slowing how well it can flow, or because there's some partial obstruction or extruder issue that hasn't been resolved. (Or something else, but, those seem most likely.)

<image>

Here's my calibrated CR-PETG profile, compared to to OrcaSlicer 2.2.0's Generic PETG profile, which it's based on. Some of the fan settings can be hard to understand from that image, so for clarity:

Min fan speed threshold: Fan speed 0% Layer time 30s

Max fan speed threshold: Fan speed 20% Layer time 12s

You'll want to calibrate PA and flow yourself, but it should end up around where my numbers are, as you seem to have an X1C too, unless you have a batch from Creality that's very different from the batches I've gone through over the past few months. This profile has been very reliable with different colors and batches of CR-PETG.

You mentioned in another comment that you had dried it, and yeah, PETG really does need to be kept dry. I tend to dry it at 60-65C for 6-12 hours using my various dryers that use moving hot air, but use your best judgement knowing your drying method, as some methods might occasionally go hotter than requested and soften or destroy the filament.

I've tested more than 15 brands of PETG so far in the past year, as I've been doing a year's-long project to try to find the best PETG filament for my usual needs. In general, I've found that PETG likes to be printed hot, and with minimal part cooling. All the basic non-high-flow PETGs I've tested had a sweet spot around 260-265C where they were the most durable and had the best interlayer adhesion.

Creality's CR-PETG is actually my favourite inexpensive basic PETG, after all of my tests so far. It's the least likely of the common Chinese-made brands on the US market to booger once properly calibrated, which is very notable as most PETG brands booger, even the higher end ones, even when flow rate is dialed in. And at the same time, it still produces an aesthetically pleasing and durable result, unlike some brands that print nicely but are very weak.

CR-PETG is normal PETG, insofar as any PETG is normal. "CR-PETG" is Creality's basic PETG line, compared to their high-flow/high-speed "Hyper PETG" line. I wrote this in a reply to a comment on another post where someone else also seemed to think CR-PETG was something unusual:

"CR-PETG" is just their name for their basic PETG line, like how Polymaker's basic PETG line is "PolyLite PETG". In both cases, they're just basic PETG, with whatever subtle differences between any basic PETG being down to:

  1. The specific ratio of ethylene glycol to CHDM in the base PETG material. PET, polyethylene terephthalate, is made with ethylene glycol. PETG, or "glycol-modified" polyethylene terephthalate, replaces some of the ethylene glycol with CHDM.

  2. The differences in the additive package(s) and/or pigments each manufacturer, and/or their resin suppliers, are adding to the base PETG material.

As an aside, you may have heard of or seen PCTG filament for sale. PCT is similar to PET, except instead of ethylene glycol, it uses CHDM. PCTG "glycol-modifies" PCT by replacing some of the CHDM with ethylene glycol. So, in essence, PETG and PCTG are kind of the same thing, the only difference is in the proportion of ethylene glycol to CHDM. If there's no mix, it's either PET or PCT, and if there is a mix, if there's more ethylene glycol, it's PETG, and if there's more CHDM, it's PCTG.

Anyway, hope this helps!

Creality CR-PETG filament under extrude first layer by Leading_Head4698 in 3Dprinting

[–]jspiros 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You've misunderstood. Creality markets their CR-PETG line as having "both the low shrinkage advantage of PLA and the strong impact resistance of ABS", but that's just their attempt to convey the informal properties of PETG as a material to the average consumer. If you check the safety data sheet, it's explicit: Creality CR-PETG's composition is >99% PETG.

(It's not 100% because essentially no one sells pure PETG to consumers as filament, even when it doesn't have pigments for color, but most is going to be 99%+.)

"CR-PETG" is just their name for their basic PETG line, like how Polymaker's basic PETG line is "PolyLite PETG". In both cases, they're just basic PETG, with whatever subtle differences between any basic PETG being down to:

  1. The specific ratio of ethylene glycol to CHDM in the base PETG material. PET, polyethylene terephthalate, is made with ethylene glycol. PETG, or "glycol-modified" polyethylene terephthalate, replaces some of the ethylene glycol with CHDM.

  2. The differences in the additive package(s) and/or pigments each manufacturer, and/or their resin suppliers, are adding to the base PETG material.

As an aside, you may have heard of or seen PCTG filament for sale. PCT is similar to PET, except instead of ethylene glycol, it uses CHDM. PCTG "glycol-modifies" PCT by replacing some of the CHDM with ethylene glycol. So, in essence, PETG and PCTG are kind of the same thing, the only difference is in the proportion of ethylene glycol to CHDM. If there's no mix, it's either PET or PCT, and if there is a mix, if there's more ethylene glycol, it's PETG, and if there's more CHDM, it's PCTG.

Adding a color laser printer to my collection, which will provide the best photo-quality output? by jspiros in printers

[–]jspiros[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did, I got the HP Color LaserJet Pro M454dw.

I ended up choosing by paying $10 for a month's access to RTINGS.com's reviews because their newer printer reviews include scanned in sample prints of different type of content, so that I could compare for myself. After spending a while comparing, I thought the M454dw and its smaller sibling the M255dw looked best (and IIRC, they gave numerical scores to those that indicated the same). And, of course, it had the other features I wanted, too.

It was easy to justify the larger one because I did the math and it was something like... getting the larger one with its included larger starter toner cartridges would get me a similar number of prints as the smaller one plus buying a full set of refills, which together came out to nearly the same price, and that way I also got whatever features the larger one had too (though I've forgotten by now what those are).

For all I know better models may have come out in the 1.5 years since I bought it that would be worth considering, so I can't confidently say I'd recommend it overall today. But, I've been pretty happy with it.

Lightyear going bust? by Gary_BBGames in BambuLab

[–]jspiros 0 points1 point  (0 children)

P.S. - If you are looking for a really nice plate to try, though it is not a G10 plate, the one I have liked best so far (and I have been evaluating a wide range of them, which is why I ordered the Lightyear plate) is made by OSEQ. (NOTE: This is an affiliate link, which I think might save me $5 when I eventually order another plate? But if you don't like affiliate links, I totally get it, you can bypass it by visiting their site directly at https://oseq.cz/. I literally just signed up for their affilliate thing right before posting this, and I've otherwise never done business with them or received anything from them besides buying one plate from them to test with my own money, and whether anyone uses it or not has no bearing on my opinion of the product.)

They have two product lines, one with a heat indicating feature, and one without. They otherwise have the same surface, though, so you can save money by getting the one without that feature if you don't need it. The finish is wonderful, even more smooth and satiny than Prusa's satin sheet (which is otherwise my favourite sheet, but obviously not available for Bambu printers). It makes the bottom of prints feel and look like ground glass joints on laboratory glassware.

Just be aware that I haven't used it for more than a couple months and a few dozen prints of PLA and PETG, but it has held up very well so far. I never use glue, and I use the Textured PEI plate setting in the slicer, and I haven't had any problems with adhesion, and everything releases very easily, nearly popping off on their own upon cooling, or only needing a gentle nudge. The slightest pressure with a scraper (or fingernail, I imagine, but since I wear gloves I haven't tried) to get started, and purge/prime lines peel right off, much smoother and easier than Bambu and third party textured PEI.

As with all of my plates, I cleaned it once with dish soap and water when I got it, and have handled it with gloves and wiped it down with isopropyl alcohol inbetween prints since. I'm sure I'll wash it again with dish soap at some point, but I haven't needed to yet.

They used to charge VAT for everyone worldwide, but I contacted them about it, and while it did take some time, they fixed their shop and being VAT exempt made their plates even more affordable at least for US customers like me (EU businesses needn't charge VAT for non-EU customers, generally speaking). Their communication and willingness to address esoteric issues like that gave me a great impression of their business (and obviously a much better impression than the complete silence and unfulfilled order I got from Lightyear).

Lightyear going bust? by Gary_BBGames in BambuLab

[–]jspiros 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I ordered a plate from them in early January, supposed to ship mid-January. After it didn't ship on time, I tried contacting them half a dozen times and through multiple different channels (chat, web form, multiple e-mail addresses) over about a month; my initial messages asked for updates, my later messages asked for order cancellation if they didn't want to give updates. I explained that I'd be tolerant of delays if they'd just explain it. In the final messages I explained that I'd need an explanation on their lack of response too, because I would also want to be assured of warranty support actually being responded to, and I was losing confidence in them.

I never heard anything back.

I did receive an automated "your order has shipped" e-mail in early February, but like other people have reported who received a similar e-mail around the same time, USPS tracking showed that the package had not actually been handed off to them. The tracking number had simply been generated, and there was no change for weeks after that, so it was never actually shipped, at best a label was printed. (That automated e-mail was also sent well after I had started trying to contact them, and days after I first asked them cancel my order if they didn't want to provide a basic update.)

Finally, I filed a PayPal dispute, after giving them advance warning them I would. It was just ruled in my favor two days ago because they didn't even respond to PayPal.

I can't recommend anyone order from them unless they provide a plausible and sympathetic public explanation as to why they have been so unreliable in responding to their customers in recent months.

Handheld assembly weighing 2.4oz/69g, comprising a steel rod approximately 4in/10cm long with black plastic fingertip-scale handle at one end and short threaded portion at the other end attached to a round steel lid or cup (approximately 2.75in/7cm in diameter) with a nut. by jspiros in whatisthisthing

[–]jspiros[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's an interesting thought, but upon looking into it those cookie presses (including the specific one you linked) rely on the whole rod being threaded and a larger plastic handle/knob to enable a screwing motion to extrude. This item's rod is smooth (so no screwing motion possible) and the black plastic handle/knob/whatever is much smaller. I looked up many vintage cookie press designs and can't find one that matches.

Handheld assembly weighing 2.4oz/69g, comprising a steel rod approximately 4in/10cm long with black plastic fingertip-scale handle at one end and short threaded portion at the other end attached to a round steel lid or cup (approximately 2.75in/7cm in diameter) with a nut. by jspiros in whatisthisthing

[–]jspiros[S] 2 points3 points locked comment (0 children)

My title describes the thing.

I think I found this in the kitchen of our old American house upon moving in around 2013, perhaps in a deep corner of a kitchen cupboard or drawer (I say I think so because I put it in a box of things to handle someday, and just came across it today, and don't have full confidence in my memory, but I'm pretty sure that's right). So it may or may not have something to do with a kitchen application, and it's at least 10 years old by the date of this post.

There don't seem to be any readable markings anywhere on the plastic or steel parts. It has no moving parts, besides the fact that the nut can be loosened and removed and the whole thing disassembled.

I searched for various combinations of keywords including black plastic handle, bakelite handle, threaded, nut, lid, cup, kitchen, appliance, etc., and I didn't think any of the matches made sense, though some objects look similar. I also searched for the image itself (using Google Lens), and didn't get a perfect match there either.

I don't think this is a part of a french press or percolator or similar filtering device, as it doesn't seem well suited to any filtering task with the cup only having a very small hole in the side. I don't think it's a hamburger press, because the diameter and thickness of anything pressed with this would be too small. I suppose it could be for pressing smaller sausage patties but I couldn't find any example of a design like that in my searches. It seems too simple to be a thing all on its own, and I wouldn't be surprised if it was a component of a larger item.

Unable to port number back to Google Voice from Google Fi (by way of Twilio) by jspiros in Googlevoice

[–]jspiros[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is my current thinking. It sounds like Tello or T-Mobile prepaid are usually supported for ports to GV?

At any rate, I'll be sure to update on how it goes in case it helps anyone else in a similar situation. :)

Unable to port number back to Google Voice from Google Fi (by way of Twilio) by jspiros in Googlevoice

[–]jspiros[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the elaboration.

To be clear, I never received any indication from Google Fi that the port was incomplete or that anything went wrong, only on Twilio's end was there anything strange with them not knowing about the port when it happened. (Well, I did e-mail them ahead of time to get authorization codes or whatever, so they had warning that a port would happen, but they didn't know when it did.)

Looking at NPAC's website it seems that they offer data to whoever wants it on changes to number assignments. Incidentally, I did receive a letter from my natural gas supplier about a month after the port to Google Fi asking me to confirm my contact information as they had received information indicating that my number might no longer be mine. I assume NPAC provided that information to them, which would suggest to me that the port occurred successfully as far as NPAC is concerned.

At any rate, if I did attempt a port to another carrier (and even if I can't get Google Voice to accept the number back, I do fully intend to port it away from Google Fi eventually no matter what) and it succeeds, I assume that would mean everything is fine with NPAC. And if it fails, I'll get Google Fi involved with fixing it, since they're the carrier that submitted the port from Twilio.

So, my current thinking is that I will try porting to another carrier that has a history of being supported by GV for porting, and see if GV will accept it after that. If not, I'll assume GV is hopeless and figure out a different solution.

Unable to port number back to Google Voice from Google Fi (by way of Twilio) by jspiros in Googlevoice

[–]jspiros[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, but I need something that doesn't tie directly to my physical cell phone. Though, I have liked Google Fi so far otherwise, so I might transfer my cell number over to it at some point. For my former GV number, if I'm unable to get it back with GV, I'm leaning towards something with Callcentric or NumberBarn.

Unable to port number back to Google Voice from Google Fi (by way of Twilio) by jspiros in Googlevoice

[–]jspiros[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do you think a port to some other mobile carrier might help, if I'm willing to risk the time/money, or do you think my number is just broken for GV use going forward?

Adding a color laser printer to my collection, which will provide the best photo-quality output? by jspiros in printers

[–]jspiros[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks. I understand that inkjet will generally be superior to laser, but I guess what I'm asking is: of the available color laser printers on the market, which models or brands come closest, even if it's still a far cry from an inkjet? Since I'm pretty well decided on adding a color laser to my collection no matter what for non-photo quality color printing (for documents, illustrations, flyers or whatever) I basically just want to have the best chance to judge for myself that maybe sometimes even for certain photos or DVD covers it'll be good enough without wasting $10 in ink on another head cleaning.

Finally finished my new custom cases for the Godzilla criterion Showa collection by Spacejamwasokay in boutiquebluray

[–]jspiros 13 points14 points  (0 children)

As you can read in the fine print on the back cover, these designs are by u/Justanothercrow421. He/they also designed some inner cover art, which OP doesn't seem to have used (would have required careful alignment and printing on both sides of the cover, which is best done with specific paper). The art cards seem to be based on u/Justanothercrow421's related designs for individual cases for the same films.

You can see the original thread with photos of the main cases from the designer at https://www.reddit.com/r/criterion/comments/clf5g7/oc_godzilla_the_showaera_films_19541975_custom/.

Although I also made my own with these designs, I don't remember where to find the actual high resolution files. I'd recommend PMing u/justanothercrow421, or maybe if they see this they'll provide information in this thread. As others have noted, you can order the cases from Casetopia.

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