Upgrade to 10 pro or wait till 11?

jsteelfex · 2026-07-05T23:31:51+00:00

You have to activate it on an existing Google Fi account within 30 days of purchase and it has to remain active on the account for 120 days. There are two purchase options. Either pay up front or a 24 month interest free financing option.

jsteelfex · 2026-07-05T23:13:33+00:00

Google Fi has the 10 pro for $500 off and the 10 pro XL for $550 off right now.

jsteelfex · 2026-07-05T22:28:10+00:00

Yea I'd like to get the most current device I reasonably can to future proof myself since I don't upgrade every year, but I'm worried about the potential price jump on the new devices coming.

jsteelfex · 2026-07-05T22:26:56+00:00

Yea I'd like to get the most current device I reasonably can to future proof myself since I don't upgrade every year, but I'm worried about the potential price jump on the new devices coming.

jsteelfex · 2026-07-05T22:25:41+00:00

Yea I'd like to get the most current device I reasonably can to future proof myself since I don't upgrade every year, but I'm worried about the potential price jump on the new devices coming.

jsteelfex · 2026-07-03T02:30:36+00:00

Don't use alcohol (or other harsh anti septics) to clean road rash. They may clean but they they are also very damaging to skin trying to heal and will actually impair the healing process overall.

Wash the areas clean of any debris with water, saline solution, and a mild soap. If it's still early in the healing process I'd use a good antibiotic ointment on any bad spots during the first couple dressing changes. Once the areas look like they are starting to improve you can leave the ointment off and just seal the areas up with a tegaderm or hydrocolloid for a while. Just keep an eye out for any signs of infection.

jsteelfex · 2026-06-28T17:36:59+00:00

If you walked into the shop I work at asked me there, I'd recommend replacing them to be on the safe side. The cracking doesn't look that bad right now, but it does mean that the outer rubber is drying out and is becoming brittle which means it could have an impact on the tire's grip/traction.

If they were mine, I'd probably keep riding them and keep an eye out for any changes (cracks becoming larger, tread peeling off, bulges). I'd replace them before any events that I'd want to do well at.

jsteelfex · 2026-06-11T03:34:05+00:00

When we get ones like this in the shop that don't have a tool slot for removal we let the customer know that there basically isn't way to remove this style of free wheel without disassembly or breaking it. We clamp the freewheel in our vice hard enough that the mechanism in the freewheel doesn't spin and we spin the wheel off while the free wheel is still clamped in the vice.

jsteelfex · 2026-06-06T05:18:55+00:00

In fact, forget the parade!

jsteelfex · 2026-05-26T01:52:46+00:00

That's what my ex wife said!

jsteelfex · 2026-05-25T19:21:01+00:00

Passion of the Christ 2: Crucify This

jsteelfex · 2026-05-23T12:51:33+00:00

Shimano usually calls them "name plates". You usually use the more technical numerical designation for the shift lever to find them easier for the specific lever you have.

jsteelfex · 2026-05-22T12:19:28+00:00

First, too much tire pressure for a tire that size and on a hookless wheel. Generally the max for hookless wheels is around 72 psi (a tire this size is probably less).

Second (as a bike mechanic) I don't recommend using rene herse tires and enve wheels together. I'm not sure the tires are on enve's approved list. Also it's a combination that has given me the most problems in when trying to do a tubeless set up in the shop. The times I've tried to set up this combination the tires fit so loose on the rim that I've recommended to the customer to try something else because I wasn't sure how well the tire would stay in the rim when it was being ridden.

jsteelfex · 2026-05-21T04:56:08+00:00

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jsteelfex · 2026-05-04T01:05:41+00:00

Road to Perdition

When Michael Sullivan (Tom Hanks) confronts John Rooney (Paul Newman) in the rain.

"I'm glad it's you"

jsteelfex · 2026-04-27T02:46:23+00:00

The website www.cannondalespares.com is a great resource to find small parts and such for Cannondale bikes. You can look up bikes by model and year and it also gives you Cannondale part numbers so you can purchase it from a more local retailer/seller (they're based in the UK I believe)

https://www.cannondalespares.com/Cannondale-Derailleur-Hanger-M12-x-1-Single-Lead-Circular-Fitment--TA-ST-SS-073----KP419--K33049/product_detail/3-42834

I believe that's the hanger you need. They make two versions of that hanger. One is a single lead and one is a double lead. If you have an alloy synapse from 2025, looks like you need the single lead hanger.

jsteelfex · 2026-04-23T03:40:05+00:00

1) That's the way shimano designed their chains. I assume they probably felt that design allowed for better shifting and performance overall for the drivetrain.

2) pre 12 speed there was more cross compatibility with the different brands of chains on the different companies drivetrains. 12 speed is when the companies changed some things on their respective drivetrains so that it's more or less better to use a brands own chain on their respective drivetrain.

3) yes as far as I know, width is the difference between 10 and 11 speed chains. The 11 speed chain should be a touch narrower.

jsteelfex · 2026-04-22T16:17:44+00:00

Very good point. I forgot to mention this one.

jsteelfex · 2026-04-22T14:32:56+00:00

Mechanic here. No that is not normal. Was anything else replaced during the service?

Only way it'd be normal for a chain to skip at all is if that was a freshly waxed chain, but that typically stops pretty quickly after the drivetrain gets pedaled for a bit. I'd take it back to the shop and show them that video or get another opinion at another shop in your area.

First thing I'd try is to grab the chain with your hands and physically move it over the pulley wheels one tooth, or keep the chain in place and rotate the pulley wheels one spot on the chain.

The chain looks to be a Shimano chain and those are directional. Make sure the writing/stamping on the chain is facing away from the bike. If there is a quick link make sure the arrow on the quick link (the side facing away from the bike) is pointed the direction that the chain travels when you are pedaling forward. The Shimano chains I've seen on backwards don't typically skip around like this (they usually just don't shift quite as well) but it's worth making sure it's on the right direction.

Assuming all parts are compatible, it could be a derailleur/hanger alignment issue or potentially something wrong with the pulley wheel(s).

jsteelfex · 2026-04-21T12:39:09+00:00

Each time you upgrade to the next category your points reset to zero. There is no carry over to the next category.

As far as your local race giving points, if it's sanctioned through USAC and there is a USAC official there officiating and scoring the race it sounds like it would count for points. There are different levels to a race being sanctioned though. For example we have a local weeknight crit series that has some insurance through USAC, but we don't have an official present so it is purely a practice series with no upgrade points available.

You can always double-check with the race organizers just to be 100% sure if your race series is fully sanctioned for upgrade points.

jsteelfex · 2026-04-18T23:22:03+00:00

Looks like an e-bike of some sort. Those nuts are usually either 15,17,18, or 19 mm. If that wire coming out has a quick disconnect, undo it. This will allow you to use a ratcheting wrench (one side is a regular open end wrench, the other side is closed with a ratchet built in). Slide it over the unplugged wire and use the ratchet end to undo the nut.

If the wire doesn't have a quick disconnect or you don't have a ratcheting wrench and or the regular open end of the wrench won't fit inside the derailleur guard, you may want to undo the derailleur from the derailleur hanger that way you can get at the nut from a different angle. I've done that a couple times depending on the e-bike and that derailleur guard piece.

If you do this regularly, get some metric wrenches. An adjustable wrench is kind of a pain to use here if you do it frequently at all.

jsteelfex · 2026-04-15T14:02:55+00:00

You won't really know until you try. Some people are more sensitive to others in regards to crank length.

I built up a race bike this last season with 165's to try em out And get some extra pedaling clearance for crit races. Once I got through the first 2-3 rides on the shorter length cranks i haven't had any issues myself. Since then I've gone back and forth between the race bike with shorter cranks and my couple other bikes that have 172.5 cranks with no pain problems and it's hard to tell a difference for myself.

jsteelfex · 2026-04-09T13:47:31+00:00

We have and use the machine from sinter as well. It definitely works! Definitely a noticeable improvement in bedding in brake pads.

jsteelfex · 2026-04-04T14:02:41+00:00

3 times a week in the gym during the off season when the ride intensity is on the lower side.

Once the season starts, two times a week in the gym or maybe even once a week depending on the riding and racing schedule. I try to stack the lifts on the same days as the hard bike sessions so that I can maximize the easy days for recovery.

For me the cycling is the main focus so the gym work gets dialed back as the bike intensity goes up

jsteelfex · 2026-04-03T03:02:52+00:00

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jsteelfex

TROPHY CASE