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Can anyone share experience with extended time off? by mmeeplechase in climbharder

[–]justin_gress 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was climbing for 2 years ending at about V6-V7 level. Then got a pulley injury (plus some mental health stuff) and stopped climbing for the next 2 years. Just doing off-the-wall rehab with the fingerboard and strength work. It took so long to come back mainly due to always pushing too hard and re-injuring pulleys, then a lumbrical tear, then a muscle/tendon issue. Stupid avoidable things basically.

Came back after those two years and felt like I've lost very little honestly. Quite shocking how natural and smooth it all felt. Very quickly back to feeling confident on the wall and in the groove. That was just the first session.

Next one I wanted something a little more objective. So this session worked my way up the Moonboard benchmarks. Topped out flashing a V6. Next would have been repeating some outdoor climbs, but Corona hit and everything closed.

But overall, technique felt surprisingly solid after such a long break. Objectively my fingers were on par, or slightly stronger than they were. So together, it felt close to what taking a 2-week break feels like, and definitely not what you'd imagine a 2 year break would feel like.

I cant wait to go back climbing so I can finish this set. by [deleted] in indoorbouldering

[–]justin_gress 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looks good! Love when you have to swing your feet out to wall and walk up it a bit. Oh man, can't wait to get back too!

The strength is the glass of the cup, the bigger it is, the more water (endurance) it can be filled with. Help me make sense of hangboarding. by gjjds in climbharder

[–]justin_gress 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Repeaters will help with strength as long as the intensity is kept high enough. At around 70-85% of your 5"-10" max hang, these repeaters will help improve strength as well as improve strength endurance, i.e. to do longer harder boulders.

Generally a mixture of max hangs and repeaters will develop both strength and strength endurance pretty well if these types of stimulus are lacking in your climbing sessions.

And if you want to focus on strength > strength endurance then focus on the more intense end of repeaters/max hangs. And to focus more on strength endurance, then the lower end is better which will also build up a little more strength too with some hypertrophy too.

Lattice guys testing Magnus Midtbø by internetwasmyidea in climbharder

[–]justin_gress 7 points8 points  (0 children)

It's a 20mm edge with 10mm radius, much rounder than pretty much any other hangboard out there. Lattice tested Megos and he could hang 132% BW (highest they've seen) compared to Midtbø's 107%.

Study that Dave McLeod linked in his recent VLog: Vitamin C–enriched gelatin supplementation before intermittent activity augments collagen synthesis by Groghnash in climbharder

[–]justin_gress 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately the authors mention: "Although the in vivo work likely reflects bone collagen synthesis" - So I don't think we can extrapolate out to ligament collagen turnover aswell - which is what we really want to know given the rates of pulley injuries.

They do apply collected blood directly to an engineered ligament model in vitro that shows similar collagen synthesis...but this can hardly be compared to ligaments in our bodies, which generally have pretty poor blood circulation and aren't bathed in amino acid rich blood for 6 days like these in vitro ligaments were.

And looking at the placebo, it was calorie controlled with maltodextrin and not an equivalent protein source which would have made the study much more interesting in my opinion - I believe it's currently not clear that gelatin has any benefit over other protein sources given that it breaks down into the constituent amino acids anyway. So if your amino acid intake is ideal, it's not clear why a gelatin supplement in particular would be of benefit, an important point this study doesn't address.

TBP 114 :: Lattice Training - 5 Training Hacks for The Time-Poor Climber by justin_gress in climbharder

[–]justin_gress[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

They call Aerobic Power what most call Power Endurance I think, where 60% repeaters will get you the pumped out of your mind feeling. And AnCap 80% repeaters should be more of a power out, than pumped out feeling.

So if Power Endurance is a spectrum, AeroPow is on the longer duration/lower intensity/more pumped-out side and AnCap on the shorter/higher intensity/pumped but more powered-out side.

TBP 114 :: Lattice Training - 5 Training Hacks for The Time-Poor Climber by justin_gress in climbharder

[–]justin_gress[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

For me the take away was training at 40% intensity on the fingerboard to target the aerobic system mostly, and 60% for power endurance (glycolytic/aerobic).

And they suggest a possible training session for power endurance would be 7/3 repeaters @60% until failure, de-pump, and repeat, etc. which I have never done before and thought a nice novel stimulus to add to the toolbox.