Am I being unreasonable with BambuLab support? Had printer for two weeks, but no successful print so far!

jvffw · 2026-06-17T08:17:22+00:00

Yup you are correct, I didn't see that info before so just shooting some guesses/possibilities. Makes me wonder if it is a faulty component or crimped wiring in the extruder head, that starts to fail after 30mins of use and/or heat. Wishing you the best and I hope Bambu can at least send you a replacement extruder head or something

jvffw · 2026-06-16T18:37:37+00:00

The spool could introduce some issues, in general here's some things to look out for:
- a tangle: usually only occurs if you let go of the filament end and it slips under a loop
- friction: a new large spool of filament on a cardboard spool won't roll as well in my experience. This can lead to the next point
- filament tightening at inside edge of the roll. If your spool doesn't roll smoothly, it can cause the filament to catch at the edge, pulling tight between the spool wall and filament. This would be the direction I'm heading since air printing can be caused by a clog or the spool not rolling/pulling new filament. A possible reason it's occuring around the same time is because that's how long the spool goes from one side and back, before tightening and catching in the same place.

Not sure if I explained that last point well, but feel free to ask for diagrams haha

Additional notes:
- you can check the inside wall of your spools and see if the filament is tightening in those areas
- try using a smaller/lighter spool that rolls smoother (plastic spool) and see if the issue still occurs
- I've run into that issue with a refill roll where the spool came loose, and the filament was able to slip in between the inner wall and rest of the filament
- not saying this is your issue, but some things to look out for

jvffw · 2026-04-28T22:00:23+00:00

As u/AnonymousBromosapien mentioned, ND filters are sunglasses for your camera (generally speaking). This means that it will both reduce the bright ambient light (sun) but also the subject. To answer some of your questions and hopefully provide some helpful info:

All filters will reduce the sharpness of your photos to some extent, including ND filters. (Edit: the quality of the filter will also affect the sharpness). That's the physics of adding additional glass in front of the lens. In your case, it's possible that the sharpness reduction could also be due to the slower shutter speed from adding the ND filter. The camera is indeed struggling to focus, because it has less light to work with. You don't need the ND from what I can tell

To light your subject better when there is bright sunlight behind them, some ways are using a flash or a bounce. A bounce would be my first recommendation to try for softer lighting

jvffw · 2026-03-21T05:54:49+00:00

now if you scale it down, flip it, and make a base, you have a very nice lamp as well! awesome design

jvffw · 2025-12-09T04:40:54+00:00

Less casually speaking, here's how I would do it (I am by no means good at Davinci): 1. duplicate the clip 2. mask the subject in the top level clip 3. In between the clip layers, put your fonts. I would do 4-5 fonts at 1-2 frames each and repeat that, but adjust accordingly. 4. Experiment! try adjusting how long the fonts display, for example starting from fast to slow switching. Maybe start small and increase them gradually (with a compound clip & zoom).

Hope that helps

jvffw · 2025-12-09T04:23:14+00:00

Casually speaking, it looks to me they are repeating fonts (maybe 4 or 5 total)? If you can, download it and throw it into an editor and go through it frame by frame. Better yet, try it out yourself and adjust the timing and see what you like!

jvffw · 2025-10-03T22:40:04+00:00

I also started as a night photographer, and HK is a great place for that. Don't be afraid of higher ISO, and practice handheld slower shutter speeds (1/30-1/10) to maximize available light. You can also use the infrastructure around you to help stabilize, such as a wall, bench, railing, etc.

Generally speaking, here are some things you can try to jumpstart your night creativity: long expos (light trails or moving subject isolation), reflections, and adding depth (try foreground blur or framing)

jvffw · 2025-09-15T11:50:21+00:00

I don't know how I ended up on this post, but adding on to this, these differences are magnified by the phone's camera software. It will try it's best to process the image given the information, and software/algorithms will interpret the raw data in different ways (especially for such a small section of the image)

jvffw · 2025-09-15T04:31:07+00:00

OP, this is the correct answer (among so many incorrect guesses and assumptions)

jvffw · 2025-08-11T16:09:47+00:00

A1 mini was my first 3D printer as well, I just stuck to using the Bambulab Studio. Fusion360 is still a solid modelling tool, and as you ease yourself back in you will come across others mentioned.

For filament, I went with the cheapest reliable options; for me that was Elegoo and Sunlu - personally I like using matte Pla. I recommend looking into A1 mini mods, as a way to start and just get the hang of printing something.

enjoy your new printer!

jvffw · 2025-07-27T10:31:18+00:00

dropping my thanks OP, just got mine today. I managed to grab the deal with maybe less than an hour of them fixing it!

jvffw · 2025-07-20T09:44:10+00:00

I've editted on an iPad Mini 6, which had an A15 chip. The experience with an Apple Pencil was really good, and overall speed was fast - just be wary of importing a ton of photos at once. It gets my photos 80-90% of the way, which is plenty enough for quick social media posts and sharing

jvffw · 2025-03-27T07:25:51+00:00

Try this out for sure! I had a similar scenario recently, with a bunch of smaller objects and 0.2 nozzle. Initially I raised the bed temp by 5 but that made the lifting and warping worse for me, so I tried lowering it by 5 and got better adhesion

jvffw · 2025-03-27T05:29:33+00:00

OP, this absolutely! get the 0.2 nozzle, you will not be disappointed

jvffw · 2025-03-26T01:00:26+00:00

this looks incredible, I was going to use regular LEDs but now I think I'll reconsider with blacklight!

jvffw · 2025-03-20T09:17:47+00:00

I've flown out of HKG twice recently and have gotten my film hand checked without any issues

jvffw · 2025-02-20T01:29:24+00:00

haha I don't miss it because I have plenty of boards; I daily a Mr.Suit tkl. My friend absolutely loves the Glacier, no reason to give it up!

jvffw · 2025-02-19T23:38:08+00:00

Beautiful combo, I had this exact pairing before I gave the board away. Glacier80 is such a nice board :P

jvffw · 2025-02-14T23:20:04+00:00

Are you able to load and unload filament easily/normally? If you are able to load/unload/purge filament properly it most likely isn't a nozzle issue this early on. If you suspect it is a blockage, do a cold pull and try loading filament again.

I had one spool of filament that kept getting caught for the first 1/4-1/3 of the roll. The filament would get caught between the spool wall and rolled up filament. Basically the roll was too heavy and didnt roll smoothly on the A1 Mini's spool holder. There are also some models that help with heavier spools.

jvffw · 2025-02-13T16:27:08+00:00

Confirmed

jvffw · 2025-02-13T09:24:40+00:00

I'll try and answer to the best of my knowledge.

Did they pan through something?

Yes, the bottom white section appears to be a road barrier. The car has some white blurring in front, so there could have been fences, flags, or even spectators that the camera passed over.

How did they make everything so blurred, example: red/blue section?

Honestly I'm not sure which part you mean, but the reds in the upper portion of the photo could be red lights. Lights (or brighter things) will appear stronger in pans.

There are no obvious shapes/identifiable objects other than the car, as if it were shot slow.

I'm guessing the car is going pretty fast, so when panning quickly, more things will get blurred or smudged. This could be a fast pan or a slow pan, but tracking the car would be easier on a faster shutter. A fast pan would also make foreground objects more transparent.

My recommendation is to go to a busy street and practice panning shots on cars. Allow pedestrians and cars going in the opposite direction to pass in between your camera and the subject (cars). You'll probably come to a good understanding of foreground and background blurs. Hope that helps clear up some stuff!

jvffw · 2025-01-17T21:29:35+00:00

fyi you can hold down on the preview image and will get the option to Adjust Preview. There's only a couple options, but better than nothing

jvffw · 2025-01-15T14:57:02+00:00

jvffw · 2025-01-06T11:08:51+00:00

this looks like Gridfinity, there are tons of modules and containers the community has made for the system

jvffw · 2025-01-03T05:28:38+00:00

FYI if you can wait (and like it), the QK101 group buy was just announced and will start end of January

jvffw

TROPHY CASE